Swanage (Isle of Purbeck): Its History, Resources as an Invigorating Health ...

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I

"I t

^

S W A N A G E.

(ISLE OF PURBECK.)

vCl.

n

'I

fl

SWAN AGE

(ISLE OF PURBECK)

Its ili8t0r|[t '$^%mrm u an Jumgotfaling
jjealth J^aort Sototg, and (!li|oIo$g

Edited by JOHN BRAYE

THIRD EDITION

LONDON

WILLIAM HENRY EVERETT & SON

13A, SALISBURY SQUARE, FLEET STREET, KC.

1891

3b -n.

5Z^Z . 2.2 to . 3

/

SEP 51935

.+'

Printed by Hazell, Watson, & Vlney, Ld,» London and Aylesbury.

CO N T E N TS.

PAGE

Introduction i

SwANAGE Past and Present 8

Isle of Purbeck . . 19

Report on Swanage as a Health Resort 35

Geology . 63

Botany S^

Entomology 102

Concluding Remarks 108

Appendixes :—

I. Lists of the Principal Works on the Geology of Swanage and

its Neighbourhood . 112

II. Tides in Swanage and Durlston Bays 115

III. How to Reach Swanage and the Cost thereof . . . .116

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

WANAGE FROM THE BATHING-GROUND Frontispiece

SWANAGE AND BATHING-GROUND FROM THE NORTH . . . Focingpage I

LA BELLE VUE AND DURLSTON BAY „ 9

THE PIER FROM THE SOUTH , 13

NORTH-WEST PART OF BAY ,, 19

DURLSTON CASTLE AND THE LARGE GLOBE , 21

WORTH CHURCH, SWANAGE ,, 27

TOWN AND BAY FROM THE SOUTH ,, 35

DURLSTON HEAD AND CASTLE , 41

BATHING-GROUND , 43

BATTERY, PEVEREL POINT 65

DURLSTON BAY AND PEVEREL POINT „ 67

SWANAGE AND DURLSTON BAYS, WITH OLD HARRY ROCKS AND PEVEREL

POINT „ 69

ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.

PURBECK HOUSE 13

PURBECK HOUSE FROM THE RAILWAY STATION 15

DURLSTON CASTLE 20

THE GLOBE, DURLSTON HEAD. lO FEET DIAMETER, 40 TONS WEIGHT . .21

TILLY WHIM AND DURLSTON HEAD 23

CORFE CASTLE FROM THE NORTH 29

RUINS OF CHAPEL, CORFE CASTLE 3I

CORFE CASTLE RUINS 3^

MAPS.

SWANAGE AND ISLE OF PURBECK, INCLUDING BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE, AND

WAREHAM Facing Title

GEOLOGICAL MAP BY MR. JAMES B. JORDAN » P> ^3

LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS.

L. FORBES WINSLOW, M.B., D.C.L., M.R.C.P., Physician to
THE North London Hospital for Consumption.

HORACE B. WOODWARD, F.G.S.

J. C. MANSEL-PLEYDELL, M.A., F.L.S.

EUSTACE BANKS, MA., F.E.S.

H. GOSS, F.L.S.

L. FLETCHER.

J. ANDREWS.

H. J. HIXSON.

r'

INTRODUCTION.

WAN AGE, according to popular tradition, derives its
name from a swannery which once existed in the
neighbourhood. In historic times it has borne corrupted
names having similar sound ; our own theory, how-
ever, is that the name has a different origin. In Heraldry, the
Swan is — in addition to being the symbol of dignity, grace, and
power — the emblem of purity. In some of the mystical religions
of the East it is an object of adoration.

If the ancient residents of the Isle of Purbeck fixed on the
name of Swanage to emphasize the two great natural elements
found here — pure air and water — the name is a happy one ; and as
true to-day as thousands of years ago, when the piratical Scandi-
navians raided along this coast, and, for aught we know to the
contrary, carried off some of the beautiful Purbeck marble to
embellish their pagan shrines in the far-distant "land of the
midnight sun," before the time when Remus and Romulus had
pitched their tents on the banks of the Tiber.

In all ages and countries the instinct of man has led him to
seek health-spots for his recreative and spare moments from
labour, and if he can combine both so much the better.

There are two things a savage tries to avoid when settling on
a new ground. These are — a rival to either his sunshine or water
supply. Probably to this instinct we owe the spreading of the
human race over the whole earth, as each new-comer endeavoured
to go higher up the stream to prevent his neighbour fouling his
own water supply. Both of the savage's ideas of life can be
enjoyed at Swanage for many years to come, as it will be easy to
build there without fear of having the sunshine cut off; and the
water, which is in sufficient quantity to supply fifty times the
present population, springs from the purest source, deep down in the

I

2 INTRODUCTION.

greensand, beyond the reach or fear of pollution. What is below
the surface of Swanage has been dealt with in another portion of
this book by Mr. Woodward, a well-known expert on the subject,
and from his graphic pages the reader will find that of all spots on
our varied shores there is no other so interesting to the geologist
Another well-known expert. Dr. Forbes Winslow, gives us
some account of the medicinal effects of Swanage on some of the
most troublesome maladies man is subject to. The illustrations
speak for themselves, and may assist those in the position of the
Bride in Tennyson's poem, who asks : —

" ' Whither, oh whither, love, shall we go

Through a score of sweet little summers or so ? '
The sweet little wife of the singer said,
On the day that followed the day she was wed.
' Whither,^ oh whither, love, shall we go ? * "'

•

Swanage is what may be called a " family place," where wives
and daughters may safely be sent without being exposed to the
extravagant vulgarities of many watering places, or the demora-
lizing atmosphere of the aristrocratic rot^s and loafers, who delight
in corrupting all brought within their coils, whether city dame, or
frivolous and unsophisticated rural coquette.

English watering places are a good index to proclaim the man.
If you are told the watering places he voluntarily visits, you have
little difficulty in taking the measure of his character.

All watering places, whether on the coast or inland, are
ostensibly health resorts, though few of them started into life
as such. Some have grown up round military stations, as
Southsea and Dover ; many are overgrown fishing villages ; not
a few are the creation of powerful aristrocratic landowners, like
Eastbourne ; while a few are indebted to royalty for their start in
life : one such is Brighton. The founders of this town which has
given pleasure to millions of people — deserve to rank with the
founders of dynasties. Many have attempted to account for the
prosperity of Brighton, and have attributed other causes than its
foundation by royalty.

Nature did not adorn it in a lavish manner. Trees, thought
indispensable by some of her rivals, are few and far between, but
abundance of sunshine and a vitalizing climate make amends for
her other shortcomings. The exhilarating and buoyant feelings of

INTRODUCTION. 3

most men, with money in their pockets, when walking on the
King's Road, is something to be remembered and longed for, and
hence the perpetual crowd and the secret of Brighton's success.

Its native population — many of them descendants of settlers
during the short-lived and gay court of George IV, — are lively
and light-hearted, and outwardly display much religious feeling ;
charlatans and fanatics are constantly seeking audiences amongst
them, generally with the success they deserve ; politically, as
becomes the descendants of their ancestors, they are slightly
unstable; but in these days this counts for little.

The peculiarities of the founders of a place indelibly fix their
stamp on the manners and customs of the people, and mould them
for ages. This is particularly noticeable in the beautiful city of
Bath, which was two thousand years ago to the then capital
of the Roman world what Brighton is to-day to the still more
powerful empire ; for it is written on volumes of stone in the far-
famed city of Bath, that the cream of Roman society annually
visited the famous health resort then known as Aquoe-solis. We
have only to visit the excavations of recent years at Bath and to
see the splendid masonry of mineral baths, which are now to be
utilized for their original purposes after a lapse of twenty centuries,
to feel humiliated with ourselves as a nation that our advance in
the higher grades of civilization has been so slow.

The question may be asked. How did the Romans reach Bath
from the Imperial City ? It is not likely that the whole of them
journeyed overland through Gaul. Whether they came by sea
or not, the chances are that they would strike the coast of Britain
on the south-west to reach Bath, and there seems no doubt that
Swanage had a considerable portion of the traffic. The roads
inland, the nearness from point to point, and the configuration of
the county — all seem to favour this theory. We *re aware that
most writers favour the idea that Seaton, lower down the Channel,
was the point which the Romans used for reaching their inland
pleasure resort. Probably this arose from the fact that one of
their famous military roads, known as the Fosse-way, started from
Seaton, passing through Ilchester, a strongly fortified station, and
on to Bath. But there were more than one of these roads leading
from the Roman city of Bath to the southern coast. These
Roman roads are easily traced, and may be taken as models by
modern road-makers who are engaged in laying out new towns.

4 INTR0DUC2I0N.

Some excavations at Radstock a few years ago showed the
construction of the Ilchester Fosse-way to have been made as
follows : —

" I. Pavimentum, or foundation, fine earth, hard-beaten in.

" 2. Stratumen, or bed of the road, composed of large stones,
sometimes mixed with mortar.

" 3. Ruderatio, or small stones, well mixed with mortar.

" 4. Nucleus, formed by mixing lime, chalk, pounded brick or
tile ; or gravel, sand, and lime mixed with clay.

"5. Upon this was laid the surface of the paved road techni-
cally called the summum dorsum, ^^

Near this village of Radstock, which is about twelve miles
south-west of Bath, a branch road breaks off from the main
Ilchester Fosse-way, striking south-east to the Forest of Selwood,
crossing the river Frome (this is not the Frome which enters
Poole Harbour in the district of Swanage, but the one which finds
its way to the Bristol Channel by joining the Avon). This is pro-
bably the road which would be used by the Roman travellers
passing through Wareham and on to the sea at Swanage Bay.
Whether we are right in our conjecture that in Roman times there
was great intercourse between Swanage and Bath, it is now well
established that some centuries later, in 520, a great battle was
fought near Wimbome at a place then known as Mons Badicus, now
identified as Badbury Rings. But for thirteen hundred years his-
torians credited the famous siege of Mons Badicus with some hills a
short distance from Bath. Although the ancient Britons made such
a splendid stand at Badbury Rings, against the wild hordes of
Saxon agricultural colonists, they soon overran the old Roman
towns and settlements in the West of England, driving out or
starving out the inhabitants, preferring themselves the rough life
of the open country. Opinions may differ about the Saxon occu-
pation ; but there is no doubt the Saxons found England with fine
cities and numerous main roads, and left it full of villages and
lanes, and also delayed the Higher civilization by a thousand years.
We hope to see the former connection between these inland towns
and Swanage revived again in our more peaceable days. There is
another reason for advancing the connection between the famous
inland Roman city and Swanage — that is, the quarry interest.
Having an intimate acquaintance with the famous Bath stone
quarries in the hills surrounding the city, we are struck by the

INTR OD UCTION. 5

resemblance of the men employed there to those similarly engaged
on the Purbeck hills around Swanage.

The mode of working the quarries and the habits of the
men in both places are strikingly alike. The builders of Swan-
age should, like the Roman builders of Bath, use up the native
stone of the Purbeck hills. Though a little more costly to work,
it would prove a good investment for posterity. Mr. J. H.
Middleton, in his "Ancient Rome," writes: "The rapid growth
and stability of Rome were very largely due to the richness of
its site and immediate neighbourhood of a variety of excellent
building material, including several kinds of stone and the
different ingredients of the most durable concrete, cement, and
mortar that have ever been produced." There is a stone largely
used in the building of the Colosseum, and described by Vitruvius,
which has a great resemblance to Purbeck stone. He says :
^^ Lapis Tiburtinus is a pure carbonate of lime, very hard, of
a beautiful creamy colour, which wreathes into a rich golden
tint ; it is a deposit from running water, and is found in a highly
stratified state, with frequent cavities and fissures, lined with
sbttUizedf carbonate of lime. In it are frequently embedded
roisyc stick and leaves ; it is an excellent weather stone, but is
easily calcined by fire, and when burnt produces most excellent
lime. If laid on its natural bed it is very stony, but if set upright
its crystalline beds are a great scource of weakness, and it splits
into lamince from end to end." As to its durability the Colosseum
is a substantial witness. Rome in Vitruvius' day — which was
in the reign of Augustus — used bricks in some of her meaner
buildings, but it was the boast of Augustus that he found Rome
built of bricks and left it of marble. There is no doubt that he
did a great deal towards popularizing this expensive material
in the erection of public buildings, and by inducing the nobles to
use it in their palaces.

Swanage is happily placed with regard to good stone and
marble, the Purbeck stone having been used for ages in paving
the streets of London, and by the Government in military works
at Portsmouth, Dover, and elsewhere. Certainly this should be
sufficient guarantee of its durability and suitability for building
a substantial town for the future generations. The minor
question of cost should not be an insurmountable obstacle. Why
should all health resorts and watering places be built to suit the

b INTRODUCTION.

modern craze for show and cheapness and to suit the taste of
the million ? If a gentleman wants a coat he goes to Savile
Row or Bond Street, and has to pay accordingly ; but if a working-
man requires a similar article he finds his way to Moses or
Solomon of Houndsditch ; both are suited according to their
taste and means. So it is with everything else in civilized life ;
and why should it not be in the matter of building a house ?
Swanage is geographically situated to become a rich man's place
of residence, backed up by the western counties, long the home
of aristocratic England, within easy reach of the fashionable
inland towns of Bath, Leamington, Clifton, and Cheltenham, and
the great centres of population, Bristol and Birmingham. These
places, as seen on the map, are within an easy railway journey
of Swanage, while many historic spots are only a day's drive
from it.

Much is said in the present day about sanitary buildings, but
little of the foolish vagaries of those inflated gentlemen the
architects, who have managed to spoil many of our pleasure
places by putting up shoddy buildings of lath and plaster, and
ticketing them with fantastic names such as "Bungalow,"
" Bijou," etc. Such dwellings are well suited to stand a few years
in the tropics ; but utterly worthless for a decent watering place,
and the builders who erect them should be prosecuted for
tempting frivolous and thoughtless pleasure-seekers to risk their
lives in them.

Swanage is doubly blessed in having for its patron Mr. George
Burt, who is a considerable owner of land in the most healthy part
of the town. His half-century of experience as a member of the
famous firm of John Mowlem, contractors, builders, and road-makers,
makes him a host in himself, outweighing a good-sized army of
sanitarians of the genera medical, architectural, and " universal
reformers."

The founder and builder of a town should be a despot : all
cities and towns that have been successful in history have had
something of the sort. Bath in the last century had its
triumvirate in Allen, Nash, and Wood ; Brighton its pair in
George IV. and Dr. Russell. Eastbourne to-day has the Duke
of Devonshire ; while the neighbouring town of Bournemouth has
two kings who reign over the ground rents, and are a terror to
"jerry" builders and evildoers generally. The despot should be

INTRODUCTION, 7

an enthusiast and a patriot to his district, or he will not succeed
in building up a permanent work which shall send down his name
to posterity. We cannot conceive a more glorious monument to
a man than that of founding a health-giving town. To do this
satisfactorily, it is necessary to look a long distance ahead. The
honour must be posthumous and the benefits reaped by others
than the sower.

If our readers will study the map of England bound up with
" Bradshaw," they will see how easy it is to get to Swanage, and
most convenient for those living at Bristol, Bath, Birmingham,
Cheltenham, and many of the great towns northward, via Temple
Combe and Broadstone Junction by the Midland Railway. The
London and South- Western, after long neglect, are about to make
amends by constructing a short line across Poole Harbour, so that
Swanage will be brought within three hours of London vid
Bournemouth. This new line will be of great benefit to the two
towns, which are growing in peaceful rivalry. It is remarkable
that although Bournemouth and Swanage are — as the crow flies —
only about seven miles apart the climate is entirely opposite :
the climate of Bournemouth being as suitable as Madeira for
certain diseases. On the other hand Swanage is as exhilarating
as the Swiss Alps, and in springtime as balmy and pleasant to
dwell in as the Isle of Wight. Like Bournemouth, Swanage has
no fashionable esplanade, so detestable to quiet people and invalids
Furnished apartments and houses are plentiful, but hotel accom-
modation is meagre. At Bournemouth there is a plethora of
hotels. If the energetic Mr. Dord, of the Imperial and Bellevue
Hotels, would transfer some of his energy to Swanage, and give us
a similar hotel as luxurious and comfortable as his Imperial at
Bournemouth, he would be a benefactor to the place.

Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales, accompanied by
her daughter and suite, landed at Sw^anage in August this year.
Having engaged the ordinary public carriages found near the
pier, they visited several of the places mentioned and illustrated
in this book.

SWANAGE PAST AND PRESENT.

RIOR to the invasion of Britain by the Romans, in
the earliest period noticed by history, Dorsetshire
was inhabited by a native tribe whom Ptolemy calls
Durotriges or Morim, who are believed to have been
a Belgic race. These names were derived from British roots, and
signify " dwellers on the sea-shore.*' By the Saxons, Dorset was
styled Dor Satta, which has a similar meaning, implying " dwellers
by the water."

<It is a strange circumstance that, although the county has
passed through so many changes in its inhabitants, it still retains
in its name the Celtic root-word dwr, meaning water.

Upon the conquest of South Britain by the Romans, Dorset-
shire was included in the division called Britannia prima. Under
the Saxons it was included in the kingdom of Wessex, and after
the West Saxon princes acquired the sovereignty of England they
occasionally resided in this county.

Swanage — in the " Saxon Chronicle" styled SpanapiCy Swanawic^
and by Asser Menevensis, Suanavine, and Gnavewic, and named
in Doomsday Swanwic — is situated at the south-east extremity of
this county and island, on a little bay, to which it gives name, five
miles south-east from the decayed borough of Corfe Castle, and
two from Langton Matravers. Swanage was anciently included
in Worth Matravers, to which it was a chapelry, though now a
distinct parish, which separation took place about the year 1500.
The earliest and principal historical event on record connected with
it is the destruction, by a violent storm, in 877, of a Danish fleet of
a hundred and twenty sail on Peverel Point, at the south-eastern
entrance of the bay on which the town stands, when advancing to
the relief of the Danish troops in Exeter. Authors have assigned
different places where this accident may have happened. Bishop
Gibson, in his explication of the names of places at the end of the

SWANAGE PAST AND PRESENT. g

'* Saxon Chronicle," places it in Hampshire, near Lichfield, where
is an inland village called Swanwich. In this he has been followed,
says Hutchins, by most succeeding historians and antiquaries,
without ever reflecting that this last place, besides being ten miles
distant from the seaside, lies north-east .of Wareham, and totally
out of the course of the Danish fleet : whereas the departure of
this fleet from Wareham, and their destination to Exeter, which
obliged them to double Peverel Point, and go round the isles of
Purbeck and Portland, in order to sail westward, all conspire to
fix it here. On the beach is a granite column commemorating this
event; it bears on its summit the curious embellishment of five
cannon-balls, the meaning of which is not discernible.

Asser makes another such accident as this to have followed a
sea-fight between Alfred's fleet and the Danes coming to relieve
Exeter in the same year. But a note in the Cotton MS. observes,
that the first of the relations was inserted in the MS. from some
other, probably Matthew of Westminster, who tells the same
story. The number of the Danish vessels lost is exactly the same
in both the calamities ; though the names of the places, Gnaverwic
or Sua-navine, seem different. But these two names in Asserius,
and Suanawic of the " Saxon Chronicle," mean the same place, for
in all old MSS. G and S may be easily mistaken for one another,
and so may E and C; and there is often no distinguishing in MSS.
between u and n when put together, as in Gnaveunic and Suana-
vine, but by the sense, which fails in names of places. Mr. Carte,
therefore, justly fixes this sea engagement at Swanwich, near
Peverel Point — a place, he says, which deserves to be* famous for
the first considerable naval victory of the English. Besides the
" Saxon Chronicle," Lambarde in his Dictionary expressly says that
the Danish fleet perished in a storm here. Perhaps this may have
given name to the place — wic or wtce in Saxon signifying a curve
or bending or reach of a shore or river, and the name of the
Danish admiral who perished here may have been Suene, In
Doomsday Book it was surveyed in two small parcels : Swanwic
was held by Walter, of the wife of Hugh the son of Grip ; Sonwic
by the Countess of Bologne, of the king. Then the principal
manor seems to have been that which was afterwards called
Carrants Court

In the thirty-first year of Henry 11. the serving men of Roger de
Poles de Sandwich answered half a mark for wrongfully seizing a

10 SWANAGE PAS2 AND PRESENT,

royal fish. In the fifty-sixth of Henry III. William de Welle held
one fee in Swanwich, and in twenty-second Edward I. Edward
Earl of March held this manor. In the twenty-second of Richard II.
and third of Henry VI. the Earls of March held one fee here
and another in Purbeck. .During the twenty years of Edward III.
the tenants of the lands of John Possont and Henry Talbot were
charged for half a small fee here, which John Possont and Henry
Talbot formerly held. In the twenty-fifth of the same reign
William de Eyre held lands here, also Edith, wife of William
Wyke, his daughter and heir. In the fifth of Richard IL William
Mathan, who died in that year, held sixty acres of land in Swanage,
besides lands in Godlingeston, Woolgareth, and fifty acres of the
Abbot of Tewkesbury, Orchard in Purbeck, and Winterbom
Manreward, of Thomas Manreward. In the reign of Edward IV.
William Carent held at his death one messuage, one hundred and
twelve acres of land, in Swanage, of Nicholas Latimer ; and in
1533 Baldwin Malet died at a good old age in the Manor of
Swanwich. In the tenth of Elizabeth there is another entry to the
effect that four messuages, one hundred and nine acres of land,
and twenty-two shillings rent of the free tenants in Swanwich,
Ulwel, Horston, East Hide, and Moulcham, were held at his death
by William Perrye, of the queen, as of her duchy of Somerset.

How long the property continued in the family of the Carrants
does not appear. The family from whence this manor seems to
have taken its name were seated at Toomer, in Somerset; but
had several other concerns in the county of Dorset.

In 1603, John Bond, of Lutton, bought this manor in fee of
Robert More, of Hawkechurch, having in 1587 purchased three
lives on it. Hence it descended to Onesiphorus Bond, of
Wareham, his fourth son, who had it in 1640, and in 1664 sold
it for ;^340 to Thomas Chapman, of Swanwich, who already held
nineteen acres of land, parcel of Carrant Court farm, the fee
simple of which descended to him from his father and grandfather.
Afterwards it was sold in more parcels to the Roses of Rempston,
or Swanwich, who sold their part in the beginning of Anne's
reign to Sir William Phippard. Afterwards it came to the
Mompessons, of Langton Matravers, who sold it to the Serrels.

Swanage is particularly noted for the quarries in its district.
Those in the Isle of Purbeck are very valuable ; they are located

SWANAGE PAST AND PRESENT. ii

in three parishes, Swanage, Langston, and Worthe, and cover
an area exceeding twelve miles. Many of the inhabitants are
employed in digging and tooling the stone which is raised from
pits, some twenty, others forty, feet deep. These pits are not
open to the top, but are undermined and underbuilt ; the hills to
the south and west of Swanage being penetrated with numerous
shafts and galleries. The work of the quarries is carried on
under the rules and customs of a curious trades guild of a
mediaeval type, by which none but the sons and sons-in-law of
the quarrymen are allowed to work, and not then until they have
served seven years. They meet to transact their annual business
on Shrove Tuesday at Corfe Castle. Formerly they kicked a foot-
ball from Langton through Corfe, over the heath to Owre ; now
the football is carried, and with it a pound of pepper for the Lord
of the Manor — an acknowledgment of the right of way to Owre.

Large quantities of durable building stone are obtained from
the quarries in addition to the ornamental marbles. This stone
is excellent for walling, floors, steps, and in particular for foot-
pavements for towns ; it is also used for tombstones and troughs.
Another sort of stone is found here and used for pitching streets ;
and some of the thin stones on the tops of the quarries are used
for covering buildings.

The Purbeck and Portland stone is said to have been first
brought into use and reputation in the time of James L, when it
was employed in the erection of the Banqueting House at White-
hall; but one constantly meets in old records with orders for
Purbeck marble and stone. It was used for Westminster Abbey
and for the construction of the Eleanor memorial crosses at
Waltham-Cross and Charing Cross. Grants of loads of it were also
frequently made to the heads of religious houses. After the Great
Fire of London it was much used by Sir Christopher Wren, in
the construction of different public edifices ; and its beauty and
durability have since procured for it a constant demand for similar
purposes in various parts of the kingdom.

The Purbeck beds are alternating series of thin limestones,
marls, and shales. They rest conformably upon the Portland beds,
and pass gradually upwards in the more sandy deposits of the
Wealden. They are chiefly of estuarine origin, with few marine
interstratifications, and with the Wealden bear witness to a ter-
restrial episode in the British area, intervening between the marine

12 SWANAGE PAST AND PRESENT.

conditions, under which the oolites beneath and the cretaceans
above were deposited.

The beds near Swanage are about three hundred and sixty
feet in thickness, and are well exposed in the cliffs of Durl-
stone Bay and the numerous inlets farther westward. These beds
have been considered capable of division into three groups — an
upper, middle, and lower. At the base of the lower are three
successive surface soils, locally known as " dirt-beds " — these are
to be seen well exposed in the cliffs of Lulworth Cove. Scat-
tered through the soil are numerous silicified stems of coniferous
trees and cycads, and one peculiar fossil of this nature is known to
the quarrymen as the " petrified bird's-nest ; " it is the compressed
stem, with the bases of the leaves of an extinct cycad, Mantellia
nidiformis.

The middle Purbeck beds contain a particularly interesting
series of fossil remains. Besides countless myriads of cyprides,
which equally characterize the upper and lower divisions, there
are also abundant remains of fishes and reptiles, and numerous
traces of mammalia. Fossils of different fish, particularly bream,
are found in the quarries, and among the bones discovered are
large vertebrae and bones of the iguanodon and plesiosaurus, bones
of large and small crocodiles and of various reptiles. Another
interesting stratum in the middle Purbecks is the " cinder-bed,*'
which is an accumulation of distorted oyster-shells — the exuviae of
old oyster-beds that were evidently affected by the small supply
of salt water within their reach.

At Swanage is a white stone full of 'shells, which takes a
polish and looks like alabaster; and at Downshay, and in its
vicinity, was formerly dug marble of various colours, blue, red,
spotted, and grey, but chiefly the last, which is a conglomeration
of shells. In the northern part of Purbeck and in the vicinities of
Wareham and Morden is found a stone of an iron colour called
Firestone.

The Kimmeridge coal-shales have an almost unique antiquarian
interest, from the fact that the harder and more even-textured
varieties were the subject of an important local manufacture prior
to the Roman invasion, which the Romans^ seem to have con-
tinued, for they employed it largely for ornamental purposes,
particularly for bracelets, beads, and armlets; it was also much
used by them for domestic purposes. The waste discs left by

SWANAGE PAST AND PRESENT. 13

the turner have been found at Purbeck in large quantities, and
from their imagined use as coins were long currently called
" Kimmeridge coal money."

Owing to the development of other quarries and the change of
fashion Purbeck marble is not so much in demand as formerly,
but the quantity exported yearly was recently estimated at sixty
thousand tons, and the extent of the annual excavations at an
acre. At this rate the island will supply stone for the next two

thousand years. It is most durable, and is employed in St. Paul's
Cathedral and many of the finest buildings in the Metropolis.

Most English towns have to confess an enormous debt of grati-
tude to local benefactors. Swanage looks to Mr. George Burt, of
Purbeck House, who has developed and improved the town and its
neighbourhood to such an extent that those who knew it fifteen
years ago would scarcely recognize it, were it not for the ancient
landmarks, which have been tenderly preserved in their entirety.

The town of Swanage consists of but one narrow, winding

14 SWANAGE PAST AND PRESENT.

street, which is undeniably picturesque. The cottages are quaint-
looking, and built of the famous Purbeck stone ; and some of them
are said to be several hundred years old. They are sunk many
feet below the level of the road, a person passing being able to
reach the roof with slight exertion. From this old centre of the
town streets of new houses of handsome appearance are branching
out in various directions, and with their gardens and plantations
give the appearance of a rising and prosperous seaside resort. An
old feature of Swanage is about to succumb to modern improve-
ment. Now that the town is a terminus and the stone is no
longer sent by sea, the stone-yards along the quay have become
obsolete, and there is talk of an esplanade to take their place, with
gardens and ornamental buildings for the use of visitors, who
come by the numerous pleasure steamers which ply between
Swanage and various well-known towns.

In the centre of the old part of Swanage stands a cottage
carefully fenced in, and surrounded by beautiful and choice
shrubs, which flourish in great luxuriance. In the gable end of
the cottage has been inserted a tablet, bearing an inscription to the
effect that the Rev. John Wesley, the founder of the sect which
bears his name, spent some time there as the guest of Mr. Burt's
grandparents.

On the opposite side of the road stands Purbeck House. It
occupies the site of an ancient monastery of the abbots or monks of
Binden, and has an unrivalled view of the surrounding landscape

One of the most remarkable features of Swanage is the Parish
Church. Much of the edifice is modern, though built on an ancient
site. The tower, which is stated by tradition to have been erected
before the birth of Christ, is the oldest building in the island, not
excepting even Corfe Castle ; for though composed of the same
sort of stone, this has acquired a greater degree of nitrous incrus-
tation than that has, and, like it, the mortar is almost petrified
by the action of the atmosphere through such a length of time. It
was probably once used as a fortress, as there is still a moat filled
with water on the western side. Exceedingly massive, with walls
of great thickness, it rises almost perpendicularly in five stages
to the height of about eighty feet, and is entered on the outside
from a flight of steps about twenty feet high. In Christian times
there is a record of three churches having been added to it. The
tower has a peal of eight bells, four of which are new, having

i6 SWANAGE PAST AND PRESENT.

recently been placed there at the cost of Mr. George Burt to the
memory of his late wife.

The present church, which is very interesting from an antiquarian
point, is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is a large building, and
consists of a chancel, body, a narrow north aisle almost equal with
the chancel, and small south aisle. The body of the church is
covered with lead, the rest with tile. The chancel is large, and is
one-third of the length of . the' fabric. The north aisle belongs to
Godlingston farm, the south to no particular place or person. On
the east wall is a pedestal for an image ; on the south a niche for
holy water. Near it is an arch in the wall, and under it a narrow
tomb of grey Purbeck marble, but without any inscription. This
church seems to have been built at different times as the inhabitants
increased. The rectory church at Swanage was anciently only a
chapel of ease to Worth Matravers, and was included in the pre-
sentation for many years. It is now become a distinct parish and
a representative church. When it became so is not quite certain,
but probably about 1500. In the valuation for 1 291 it is styled the
Church of Worth and Swanage, as it was for two centuries after.

On a tombstone in the churchyard is the following epitaph : —

Near this Stone
lie the earthly Remains of

Mr. THOMAS MANWELL

who

(unassisted by education)

by the strength of a superior genius, and

Nature for his guide,

broke thro* the barrier to literature, and

acquired a degree of knowledge which

might have rank'd him with

the first Philosophers of the Age;

but

being a child of Solitude, his retired

meditations were far dearer to him

than the acquirement of

Fame,

And if Charity, Humility, and Meekness,

with

Faith in a Redeemer be Christianity

he was a perfect Christian.

Obits. 4th Feby., 1822.

Anno ^tatis 70.

SWANAGE PA SI AND PRESENT, 17

The above epitaph was written on one of Mr. Burt's maternal
ancestors by Dr. Bell, Rector of Swanage from 1801 to 1808,
when he was appointed to the Mastership of Sherburn College ^
Dr. Bell took great interest in the Manwell family, and assisted
one of Mr. Burt's uncles — formerly a stonemason in Swanage —
to become a master in St. James's Schools, Piccadilly.

Dr. Bell died at Cheltenham, January 27th, 1832, and was
buried in Westminster Abbey (about half-way up the nave from
the west door), the inscription on the tombstone being, " The
Author of the Madras System of Education."

The bay having of late years come into repute as a health
resort, several large buildings have been added, which greatly
improve the general appearance. Among the principal are the
Library, containing some thousand books, and the Royal Victoria
Hotel, a spacious building sheltered in its different aspects from
all winds, and containing hot and cold sea-water baths. The bay,
though not large, is beautiful, and affords security for vessels of
three hundred tons burthen, whichf can ride here steadily. Con-
siderable improvements have taken place in the neighbourhood ;
and the mildness and salubrity of the air, possessing all the
advantages of a southern climiate, render the town peculiarly
desirable as a winter residence.

The manufacture of straw-plait employs many of the women,
and the chief occupation of the men is in working the quarries,
though sailcloth and sacking are also made in and near Swanage.
There are no ores of any kind found in the county, nor are there
any mines of coal, the supply in this article coming either from
Newcastle or Wales ; the proportion between the Newcastle and
the Welsh coal is as thirteen and a half bushels of the former to
one ton of the latter.

There are two or three mineral springs in Swanage, but they
have not hitherto been used for medicinal purposes, though pro-
bably not unknown to the Romans. There are also several Roman
camps and barrows in the neighbourhood, and old coins have been
found under the soil.

Church Lands. — The manor of the Dean and Chapter of
Exeter — vulgarly called *' Eight Holes," from the number of tene-
ments contained in it — lies at the east end of Swanage. It
anciently belonged to the Priory de Vasto or Wasto, and seems
to be the same manor that at the Conquest belonged to the

2

i8 SWANAGE PAST AND PRESENT.

Countess of Bologne, but was afterwards given to the Dean and
Chapter of Exeter, as were Winterborn Monkton and Rock-
hampton. In the reign of Richard II. the lands of the priory here
were rated at 145. Swanwich manor was held at his death by
John Syward of the king in chief. It was probably this manor,
because that family were lessees or Jords mesne of the manor
under the Prior de Vasto, as they were of Winterborn Monkton.
In the third year of Edward VI. eight dottages, etc., in Swanage
were granted inter alia to Keylway, etc. Elizabeth also granted
lands here to the Dean and Chapter of Exeter and their succes-
sors. This little manor has generally been leased out to several
persons. In 1293 the lands of the Prior of Frampton here were
rated at 9s. During the reign of Philip and Mary, Sir George de
la Lind held a messuage and land in Swanage of the Prior of
St. John of Jerusalem, as of his manor of Fryer-Magne.

ISLE OF PURBECK.

AREHAM, lying west of Swanage, is a place of some
interest from an historical point of view. It has been a
fortified town since the days of the Danish invasion,
as the area enclosed by its ramparts shows, but is
now a place of less importance than formerly. It is situated
between the Frome and the Piddle, whence it has derived its name
— Saxon Weartham^ "the dwelling on the land between two
waters." A Wessex king is said to have been buried here, and in
the struggles with the Danes it was frequently made their head-
quarters ; the adjoining streams of the Frome and Piddle, and its
proximity to Poole Harbour, rendering it a convenient base for
operations. This favourite landing-place of the Danes has, how-
ever, been long choked up. Wareham was brought ver}' low by
these invasions at the time of the Norman Conquest, but it revived
again after this. As the key of the Isle of Purbeck, it agaii^
suffered from its position in the struggles between King Stephen
and the Empress Maud. The friends of the latter first possessed
themselves of it ; then it was taken and burnt by the other party,
and lastly was recovered after another siege. After these troubled
times it entered on a quieter period, which lasted until the time of
Charles I., when it was again disturbed, being taken and re-taken
more than once. The townspeople declaring for the king, a
parliamentary leader suggested the destruction of the town. This,
however, was not done ; but a fire broke out in the next century
which nearly fulfilled his intentions. Only three churches remain
of the eight which it is said to have formerly possessed, and of
these but one. is in regular use. This church is interesting; it
stands on the site of the wooden chapel in which the body of
Edward the Martyr lay for some time. The body of the church is
modem, but some portions date from the time of Henry III., and
the walls contain some inscribed stones, taken evidently from a

20 ISLE OF PURBECK.

much older building. There is some trade in agricultural produce,
and in fine potter's clay, Wareham is said to have been the birth-
place of Horace Walpole, but there appears to be some doubt as
to the authenticity of the report.

DuRLSTON Bay. — To the south of Swanage lies Durlston Bay,
with its fine section of the Purbeck beds. At the base is a singular
seam, called the " dirt-bed," containing the remains of a fossil forest,
which is exposed in several localities along the coast Quarries are
numerous hereabouts, the most noted among them being Dancing-
ledge Quarry, named from a ledge of rock upon which the waves
"dance." The contortions of the beds exposed in the cliffs are
interesting to the geologist, and the scenery is often striking.

On Durlston Head, at an elevation of about one hundred
and fifty feet above| the level of the sea, has been erected a large
solid-looking structure, which has received the name of Durlston
Castle. This has been built and is being fitted up as a restaurant
at the expense of Mr. George Burt. Let into the south wall of
this building is a sun-dial ; and at a lower level are large slabs, on
which are tabulated various statistics of universal interest and
instruction, such as the convexity of the ocean, particulars of tides,
etc. On an elevation below the Castle stands the great sight of
Swanage — a Portland Stone globe, weighing forty tons and measur-
ing ten feet in diameter, placed so as to represent the earth correctly
poised. On it are shown the continents in slight relief, the oceans,
and rivers; round the globe are placed stone benches in the
proper positions at the eight points of the compass, which they

ISLE OP FURBECK. 21

indicate, and with the direction dearly lettered upon them.
Pleasure-seekers having commenced to chronicle their visit on the
globe, a large slab has been placed in the wall close by, sur-
mounted by this inscription : " Any persons anxious to write their
names will please do so on this stone." Her Imperial Majesty
the Empress Frederick, during her last visit to England, when

cruising round Purbeck, landed and paid a special visit to " The
Globe."

From the Globe a path leads down towards the caves of Tilly
Whim, and a tunnelled entrance has been blasted through the
solid rock into one of them which opens into the sea. These
""caves are most striking and picturesque ; they are said to have
been much used by smugglers, a race of which this coast abounds
in traditions and legends. In 1720 the mayor and inhabitants 01

22 ISLE OF PURBECK,

Poole petitioned the House of Commons, complaining of the decay
of trade owing to smuggling. Apparently the first petition had no
effect, for a second was presented two years later ; and the Govern-
ment, at last obliged to move in the matter, instituted proceedings
which threw light on an immense and well-organized illegal
traffic, which had been carried on successfully by the most
respectable inhabitants in the district. These good people there-
upon sent up counter-petitions from Poole, complaining that they
were impoverished and their trade lessened "by prosecutions
against such of the unhappy inhabitants as, through ignorance or
inadvertence, bought goods which had not paid the duties." This
petition was sympathetically considered by a committee to which
it was referred, and the penalties were remitted. The result of
this mildness was a murderous and audacious robbery of smuggled
tea in 1747, seized in the first instance by the Customs, and
re-captured by smugglers, when two Customs officers who had
identified some of the ringleaders were murdered. This led to
a vigorous attack on smugglers by the Government, in conse-
quence of which six were hanged in the following year, and several
others were subsequently executed. In later years a well-known-
transgressor was Captain Gulliver, who, it is said, attempted on
his death-bed to keep out the Prince of Darkness by having all his
windows and doors barred ; but his efforts are reported to have
been in vain, for an old retainer broke the news of his death .to
his friends in the significant words, " He has got 'un."

Tilly Whim is said to have been named after an eccentric
character, a former owner called Tilly Whim.

From the caves of Tilly Whim and the coast near Durlston
Point a tremendous sea may at times be seen ; and it is difficult
to imagine a greater contrast than between the sea on a calm
bright day and when it is dashing in uncontrollable fury upon
the rocks. Durlston Point presents a grand view in its peaceful
beauty; but words fail to paint the majesty of its surroundings
when roused by the frenzy of a gale, with spray cast two hundred
feet into the sky.

The quarries continue to St. Aldhelm's Head, which is so
conspicuous an object. This promontory can be seen from all
the coast found for many miles. It takes its name from a saint,
first abbot of Malmesbury and first bishop of Sherborne, a great
scholar and a good man. The summit of the promontory rises to

24 ISLE OF PURBECK,

a height of nearly one hundred and fifty yards above the water,
and is crowned by an ancient chapel, where, in former days, a
priest prayed for the mariner's safety as he trimmed a beacon-
light. Its architecture is Norman, the stone roof being supported
by a central pillar. The door is towards the north-west, and the
one window, a mere slit, is in the south-east wall. During the
summer months an evening service is conducted here by the Vicar
of Worth. St. Aldhelm's Head is the most southerly point of this
part of the Dorset coast, and the view is very fine and extensive ;
the mural escarpments of cream-coloured limestone adding greatly
to the beauty of the surroundings. Near here lies the village of
Worth Matravers, the principal feature of which is the parish
church, recently restored by Lord Eldon. It is dedicated to St.
Nicholas, and was formerly the mother church of Swanage. The
architecture is chiefly Norman, the main portions of the tower and
nave dating back to iioo; the chancel is of the Early English
period. A few curious tombstones, decorated with crosses, have
been preserved in the churchyard ; but probably the most interest-
ing among them will be found to be that of one Benjamin Jesty, of
Downshay, " noted for having been the first person (known) that
introduced the cow-pox by inoculation." He is said to have per-
formed the operation with a stocking-needle, and commenced his
experiments, in 1774, on his wife and two sons, ''from his strength
of mind."

The solid Portland stone which guards the coast like a natural
breakwater has been breached here and there, forming a gateway
to the sheltered coves within. Among the most important of
these, we find Lulworth Cove, one of the most picturesque spots
round Swanage. There is a castle here, pleasantly situated. The
structure is comparatively modern, dating only from 1600; but a
castle, however, existed here in the days of Stephen, and older
materials, chiefly from Binden Abbey, are worked up in the
present structure. It is a cube in plan, with corner towers, and
can be reckoned among the most successful architectural efforts of
the period. During the Civil War it was for a time garrisoned
for the king, but afterwards seized by the parliamentary party.
Royalty has frequently honoured Lulworth Castle with a visit,
commencing with James I., and it was placed at the disposal of
Charles X. of France, who occupied it for a short time. It has
been for more than two centuries the property of a Roman

ISLE OF PURBECK, 25

Catholic family named Weld, one of whom was created a cardinal
by Pius VIII. The famous Mrs. Fitzherbert, who attracted the
attention of the " First Gentleman of Europe," was the widow
of a son of the family.

About a mile north from Swanage lies Godlingston, anciently
a manor and hamlet, now a farm ; it lies under the north hill, a
little west of WhitclifF, and is said to be one of the oldest remains
of domestic architecture in Purbeck. Moulham, anciently the
residence and estate of the Moulhams, but now only a parcel of
grounds that make part of the Godlingston farm, lies to the north-
east. In Doomsday Book, Durandus, the king's carpenter, held
" Moleham," also a virgate of land in Alfumstone. Mr. Coker says
the Conqueror gave it to his carpenter Durand, to be held by the
service that he should repair the timber work of the great tower
of Corfe Castle, and cleanse the gutters as often as need required,
for which he quotes Doomsday Book, but it is not to be found
there.

There are many hamlets of slight importance round Swanage
that have been connected in some way with the history of Dorset.
Of these the most important are Herston, a tything of about fifty
houses, Ijdng at the west end of Swanage ; Norbrook, a manor
farm lying in an opposite direction; Ulwell, anciently a manor,
now a hamlet of ten or twelve houses, which lies in a break of the
north hill in WhitclifF tything, and a little west of WhitclifF, partly
belongs to Studland. This pretty old-world village, with its
ancient millpond, probably derives it name from the well of the
exhaustless stream which has for centuries past poured volumes of
the purest water unheeded into the sea. WhitclifF, which is now
a farm, was once a manor, and derived its name from the chalky
clifF to the east of it. It lies near Swanage Bay, a little south-west
of Handfast Point, and is said to have been at one time a favourite
residence of King John.

Studland. — This bay lies to the north of Swanage, in the
extremity of the Isle of Purbeck, under the slopes of Ballard
Down, at the head of a small chine leading down to the shore.
In Doomsday Book " StoUant " was held by Haimo, of the Earl
of Moriton. Here were at that time thirty-two saltpits. The
difference of this name from the present, Hutchins says, may be
owing to the error of the Norman scribe. On Studland Common,

26 ISLE OF PVRBECK.

which borders on the south side of Poole Bay, are many ancient
barrows, some of them large and oblong, most of them round and
rude. In an old map by Tuswell four of them are taken notice of :
Addingstone, Blackdown, Rycroft, and Puketon. Addingstone is
the most northerly, and seems to be the same now called Agglestone
or " stone barrow," from a vast stone on it. The name Aggie-
stone seems to be derived from a Saxon word meaning "holy

a

Stone," which Hutchins says is expressive of its ancient super-
stitious use, for there is little doubt that it was a rock idol or
deity in the British age. The county people call it the " Devil's
Nightcap," and have a romantic tradition that the devil was sitting
on one of the Needles looking about him to see what the world
was . doing. From there he espied the towers of Corfe Castle,
which were just rising towards 'completion, and is supposed to have
been filled with envy at the sight, for he seized a large stone and
threw it at the castle with a design to demolish the work, but it
fell short and dropped here. It is a red heath, sand, or moor
stone, which, though very common all over the heath, does not
abound here in any size. Geologists assert that the Agglestone
is a fragment of the native rock of the county, which, from being
harder than the rest of the stratum of which it formed a part,
had resisted the destructive influences of wind and rain, and is
thus the result of natural causes, though there have, needless to
relate, been antiquaries who have seen in the Agglestone the
work of the Druids, and have pointed out two or three depressions
in its top as " rock-basins," denoting that it had been made use
of as a sacrificial altar.

Studland Bay lies to the east of the village, and extends a league
north-east from Handfast Point to South Haven Point.

An excellent view is here obtained of Branksea Castle, standing
on an island of the same name, also of Poole Harbour. Studland
Church, which is interesting as a Norman structure, still remains
without much alteration. It is a small building, dedicated to
St. Nicholas, and consists of a chancel and body tiled, and a low
tower on two semicircular arches which intersect each other, a
style which, according to various authorities, is supposed not to
be more ancient than the Conquest. The tower is covered with
lead and supported by three buttresses. The eastern window is
Early English. In this church King John may have worshipped
on one of the two occasions when he visited Studland. The

ISLE OF PURBECK, zy

register does not date back very far, the first baptism recorded
being in 1581, and the first marriage and death entries 1636.
There are no baptisms from 1624 to 1636.

Beneath Ballard, on the shore, is the "Old Harry Rock;" a
lofty, pillar-like rock, separated by a narrow channel from the
mainland. Here it was, as the legend is told, that a ship
foundered, bearing a complete peal of bells for Poole Church,
owing to the sailors having jested profanely at their sacred cargo.
On stormy nights the bells are supposed to ring a warning to all
approaching this dangerous spot.

CoRFE Castle. — About seven miles to the north-west of
Swanage the ruined Castle of Corfe stands in a break in the hills,
guarding the southern part of the Isle of Purbeck. Historians
vary as to the date of the structure, and generally are of opinion
that it did not exist prior to the Conquest ; but there is reason
to believe that a castle existed at Corfe in the reign of King
Alfred. A presumption to this effect arises from the undoubted
fact that he was founder of the Abbey of Shaftesbury, with
which religious endowment this castle was constantly connected
in the periods of our early history. Ethelgiva, daughter of King
Alfred, was the first abbess of Shaftesbury, and to her and her
successors high rights and privileges were granted connected
with Corfe Castle and the surrounding domain.

In the year 875 Alfred, having made an agreement with the
Danes, and a partition which assigned to them a large portion of
the northern provinces of the kingdom, thought himself happy
in the preservation of his paternal dominion ; but in the beginning
of the spring of this year, Halfden, a Danish general, with a
very considerable force, took by surprise Wareham Castle, then
the strongest place in Wessex. Alfred, finding it was in vain to
conclude treaties with such perfidious people, resolved to take
more effectual means to secure himself from their deceits. He
succeeded • in rendering their residence at Wareham so incom-
modious to them, that, in the year 877, the army of Pagans quitted
the place, some on horseback, some by water. The naval portion
proceeded no farther than Swanage, where they were attacked by
ships provided by Arthur, and, a furious storm arising, a hundred
and twenty of their ships were driven ashore off" Peverel Point,
and the portion of the army contained in them was completely

28 ISLE OF PURBECK.

destroyed. To effect a security against their return at some
future time a fortress was raised at Corfe, then called Corffe's
Gate, from its position in the Purbeck Hills — -ceorfan meaning
" to cut."

Whatever may have been the size or construction of this castle
in the days of King Alfred, it was greatly extended and embellished
in the following century under the direction of the magnificent
King Edgar. This monarch procured from Italy workmen to
instruct and aid the native artisans ; it is thus that the peculiarities
observable in some portions of this structure and the perfection of
its masonry are accounted for. With the queen of the last-named
Saxon monarch commences what is important in the history of
this castle. Edgar bequeathed it to her as a dowry mansion, and
here she plotted and accomplished the murder of his son.

As the story goes, Edward the king, while hunting in the
neighbouring forest became separated from his attendants, and
being thirsty drew rein at his stepmother's door, and asked for
some wine. As he was raising the cup to his lips he was stabbed
in the back by one of the queen's attendants. Feeling the wound
the king rode away, but gradually growing weaker from loss of
blood he fell from the saddle, and his foot becoming entangled in
the stirrups he was dragged along the flinty ground. At the
bridge below the castle his body was found on the following day
by the queen's servants, who were attracted to the spot by a bright
light which illumined the body. They bore it to a mean cottage
close at hand, where it lay until its interment in a humble grave
at Wareham. The queen at first carried matters with a high
hand, and we are told that her young son — for whose sake she
had committed the crime — bewailing his brother's death, she be-
laboured him with a wax candle to such an extent that the poor
boy could never bear the sight of one again. After the body of
the murdered king had been buried at Wareham, constant miracles
were performed at the grave. At last they became so frequent,
and gave rise to so much suspicion, that the queen grew alarmed,
and had the remains removed to Shaftesbury, whither she at-
tempted to follow in the funeral procession, but was prevented by
various miracles. To silence the rumours which caused her so
much disquietude, she founded and endowed two nunneries in the
neighbourhood, to one of which she soon after retired.

During the various revolutions which ensued upon the suppres-

ISLE OP PURBECK. 29

sion of the Anglo-Saxon dynasty, Corfe Castle followed the fortunes
of the English crown, and was held from the time of the Norman
Conquest as a royal castle by some great baron of the victorious
race. During the wars of Stephen, Corfe Castle was one of the few
structures which defied him, for until the invention of gunpowder
it could be taken by no other means than treachery of the
garrison. In the year 1153, when an end was put to the national
calamities of this reign by a treaty of peace, a primary condition
of the treaty was that all the castles built on both sides since the

death of Henry I., amounting, it is said, to eleven hundred and
fifteen, should be abolished. This condition did not affect Corfe
Castle, which had stood out against the power of the usurper and
acknowledged the authority of Henry Plantagenet when he, without
opposition from any, was called to the throne after the death of
Stephen in the year 1 154.

During the eventful reign of the tyrannical John, Corfe Castle
became again a royal residence ; that king deposited- within its
walls his treasure and regalia, using it also for the confinement
of State prisoners. Here twenty-two knights from Poitou and
Guienne, partisans of his nephew Arthur, who were taken

30 ISLE OF PURBECK,

prisoners at Mirabel, perished miserably from hunger. In such
high consideration was this castle held by Simon de Montfort, and
the barons who adhered to him, that it was the third which they
demanded to be ceded to them when they exacted royal castles as
pledges for the future good conduct of the king. Corfe Castle
was put into a complete state of repair at the expense of the Crown
in the reign of Edward II. It afterwards became the prison of
this monarch by command of Queen Isabella and Mortimer.

In the reign of Richard II., who was the son of the beautiful
Countess of Kent, Corfe Castle was possessed by Thomas
Holland, Earl of Kent, and Alicia his wife, near relatives of th6
king. They appear to have held possession unmolested through
the troubles which closed that reign. Henry IV., after their deaths,
made a grant of this royal property to the Earl of Somerset, the
head of the house of Beaufort, in whose family it continued until
the reign of Henry VI. The Wars of the Roses did not reach the
walls of this castle ; but the owner was involved, and at last
overwhelmed, in the ruin of the Lancastrian party. The duke's
forfeited estates, including the castle and royal domains of Corfe,
were then granted to the king's brother George, Duke of Clar-
ence ; but he held them for only a short period, being attainted by
the Parliament in 1478, and committed to the Tower, where he
was drowned in a butt of malmsey.

The castle again reverted to the Crown when the rival roses
were united on the throne of Henry VII. This king immediately
prepared it as a suitable habitation for his mother, the Countess of
Richmond and Derby. The Countess of Richmond had early
ties of attachment to the county of Dorset. The first years of her
life were passed at Kingston Lacy, near Wimborne, which then
belonged to her parents the Duke and Duchess of Somerset. At
her death the castle, which had retained all its Saxon strength
and Norman grandeur, reverted to Henry VIII. Corfe, from its
isolated situation, remained unappropriated by any favoured
courtier during this reign. But when Henry died, the proud and
grasping Seymour, Earl of Hertford, seized upon this royal castle-
A splendid inhabitant appeared in the days of Elizabeth, who
granted the castle to her favourite Sir Christopher Hatton, who
repaired it at great expense. In 1588, when rumours of war began
to grow greater daily, Corfe became again a fortress, and cannon
were for the first time mounted here. At that time the queen was

ISLE OP PURBECK. 31

pleased to confer upon the inhabitants of the castle and borough a
charter, which gave them all the same rights and privileges enjoyed
by the inhabitants and barons of the Cinque Ports, including the
right of returning two members to Parliament, which right it
retained until the passing of the Reform Act in 1832, when it was
disfranchised.

On the death of Sir Christopher Hatton, who had lived un-
married, the property passed to his nephew, Sir William Hatton.
This knight left no children, and ultimately the property came to

his widow, the Lady Elizabeth Hatton, who became by her second
marriage a second wife of Lord Chief Justice Coke. A daughter
from this marriage in 1617 became the wife of Sir John Villiers,
elder brother of the Duke of Buckingham, who was created, in
June 1619, Viscount Purbeck, in the county of Dorset, in right
of his wife's expected property. Lady Hatton appears to have
called Corfe Castle Purbeck Castle, and to have considered the
whole of that island as her own. On the death of Sir Edward
Coke, his widow and child found themselves at liberty to dispose
of a mansion whose gloomy grandeur and position, so remote
from the busier scenes of life, were so little in accord with their

32 ISLE OF PVRBECK.

tastes ; and Sir John Bankes, Attorney-General, became the
proprietor of the castle.

In the Civil War of Charles I, Corfe Castle was held for the
king, and in the early part of May 1643 was the only one that
remained to him from Poole to Portland. The owner, Sir John
Bankes, was away upon the king's service when news was brought
that the seizure of the castle was intended. Whereupon Lady
Bankes, the wife of the Lord Chief Justice, with the assistance

of her friends and retainers, and of a governor sent from the
king's army, determined to hold it if possible against all comers.
The little band of defenders kept the enemy at bay until the
approach of the king's forces who were coming to the rescue, and
Corfe Castle was saved. It was, however, only for a time. The
king's fortunes after a while began to wane : he was defeated at
Naseby ; stronghold after stronghold were captured by the Parlia-
mentarians, and at last Corfe Castle was the only one between
Exeter and London which still held out. Sir John Bankes was
dead; Colonel Lawrence, who had borne an active part in the

ISLE OF PURBECK. 33

former defence of the castle, began to waver in his fidelity, and
the Parliamentary forces again appeared before Corfe. This time
they were successful through the treachery of an officer named
Pitman. A body of men were admitted into the fortress in
the dead of night. The defenders resisted for a time, but were
soon obliged to surrender, and so Corfe Castle was lost to the
king.

Orders were at once given to destroy the castle, to render
it incapable of being again defended. Parts of it were destroyed
by gunpowder, and the ruin was made complete. Lady Bankes,
for the part she had taken in the siege, was deprived for a time
of her jointure, but after a while received it again, and lived
unmolested until the Restoration.

The ruins of Corfe Castle occupy the summit of a hill rising
above the town. They are extensive and massive, and from their
high situation form a striking object. The walls are broken and
the towers shattered, and many of the chief buildings are only
a mass of ruins, but the solid keep still crowns the hill, though
it is but a broken shell with all its northern side gone.

The town of Corfe is an old-world place, containing several
objects of interest to the antiquary. The church, which was sadly
knocked about during the Civil Wars, was pulled down and a new
one erected in its stead in i860. It is a large and handsome
edifice, and contains some fine memorial windows. At the last
census the population numbered 1,777. The inhabitants are chiefly
engaged in the marble and stone quarries and clay works in the
neighbourhood.

REPORT ON
SWANAGE AS A HEALTH RESORT,

By L. FORBES WINSLOW,

M,B, Cantab,^ D.C.L* Oxon.^ M.R»C,P, Lond., Physician to the North London

Hospital for Consumption, and to the West End Hospital for Diseases

of the Nervous System, Epilepsy, and Paralysis,

|WANAGE is situated in a bay, surrounded by beautiful
scenery, and with a climate and temperature in every
way conducive to health, and it is a satisfaction to
know that it is gradually becoming one of our chief
health resorts, and is holding its own against other places which
for many years have been vaunted too conspicuously, and without
due deliberation and investigation, as resorts where invalids might
go in case of need.

Of all places Swanage seems to be the very one for chest
complications of various descriptions. Experience has already
proved this, though it may not be generally known ; and those
medical men with whom I have been in correspondence, and
who have sent such cases to Swanage, one and all testify to this
being the case. And this is not to be wondered at, taking into
consideration the situation of the place, and the soil. A portion of
the town lies at the entrance to a valley backed by a line of chalk
hills on the north, hills also shelter it on the south-west, and the
sea surrounds it on west, south, and east, with the Isle of Wight in
the distance ; and therefore there is clear salt water washing its
shores from three quarters, and in whatever direction the wind
may be there is always the great benefit of the sea breeze con-
stantly penetrating and passing direct through the town. It has
been shown, and I propose to give the tables in detail further

36 REPORT ON SWANAGE

on, that there is less rainfall here than in most other places, and
this is fully accounted for by the fact of the two ranges of hills,
which attract the clouds, the rain falling on them whilst the
valley remains free. The same cause protects the town from
fogs, which are very rarely seen in the district, and proves beyond
doubt that persons afflicted with pulmonary disorders, or who are
predisposed to consumption or any other complaint affecting the
organs of respiration, and whose chief difficulty is that of breathing,
whether that affection originates from the lungs or from the heart,
would find here a pure, clear air, free, comparatively, from
fogs and other impurities so frequently met with at seaside health
resorts ; and they would be able to breathe freely, and thus many
of those' distressing symptoms in their complaint would be
relieved thereby.

The water supply here is most excellent, and analysis shows
it to be very pure, indeed of the purest possible kind. It is
derived from the greensand situated under the chalk.

Here again is another proof of its health aspects. Many
diseases owe their origin to impure water, many a strong consti-
tution is brought to the verge of despair, ruined by the con-
tamination of the water or by an impure supply. But here no
such calamity can be possible, being supplied as I have just
stated. Purity of the water and purity of the air are two
undeniable facts associated with the name of Swanage. The
water has been analyzed by the late Professor Letheby, who
found it to be in every way similar to that existing at Burton-
on-Trent, and the excellency of this water is an historical fact.
I have tasted the water at Swanage, and can personally testify
to its goodness.

I give the two analyses of the water, that of Professor Letheby
and that of Professor Bemays.

SWANAGE WATER WORKS.

Analysis of water by Professor Henry Letheby, late Professor of
Chemistry^ London Hospital^ made October i2>6/^^from the artesian
well situated on the south side of Swanage.

Grains.

Carbonate of lime and magnesia ... 13 "54

Sulphate of lime 11*84

Alkaline sulphates ... ... ... 6'io

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 37

Grains^

Alkaline chloride 3-66

Alkaline nitrate 079

oiiicay etc* •■• ••• .•• ••• 0*0^

Organic matter 0*24

Total per imperial gallon 3 7 *o i

The results indicate that the sample of water contains a very large
amount of calcarean salts, chiefly as sulphate of lime, . . . and
approaches the composition of the water at Burton-on-Trent, as men-
tioned before, which is celebrated for its excellence in brewing pale ale.

In addition to this analysis of Professor Letheby, made in 1864,
Professor Bernays also confirmed the excellency of this water in
a further analysis made in 1882. He found it "clear, greenish-
blue in bulk. No deposit. No unpleasant odour on slow evapora-
tion. Residue white, crystalline. Hardly perceptible change of
colour on ignition, no odour, ash white."

Professor Bernays found this water to be " perfectly free from
organic sources of contamination." This is a most important fact,
and one which I would draw especial attention to as a great proof
of its purity.

Professor Bernays concludes a long and voluminous report by
stating that *' this water is pure as regards any sewage or othet
contamination. It is a hard water, and continues so after boiling."

One of the leading physicians in London, who is attached to
one of our largest hospitals, and who for some years spent his
autumn holiday at Swanage, considered that among the chief
attractions at Swanage " the great purity of the air and of the
water stand high."

In a letter to Mr. Burt, dated January nth, 1883, he writes:
"Having already satisfied myself as to the practical freedom of
the water from organic impurity, I have done what I should not
do everywhere — I have allowed my children to drink it freely.
For people in average health it is, in my opinion, a wholesome as
well as a very agreeable drinking water. It must be confessed
that it is less agreeable for washing than for drinking purposes."

In addition to analyzing the water from the artesian well on
the south side of Swanage, Professor Bernays also made an
exhaustive analysis of the water for the supply of which Mr. Burt

38 REPORT ON SWANAGE

obtained a special Act of Parliament in 1884. I here give in
extenso the result of his analysis.

Analysts of water by Professor Albert Bernays, Professor of
Chemistry y St. Tkoma^s Hospital^ of the new water supply^ granted
by special Act of Parliament, 1884.

Ingrains
per gallon.

Total residue on evaporation 1 6 '94

x\sn ••• «.• ... ••• «*• 1024

Total hardness

12-50

Permanent hardness

1*50

Free ammonia

0*0056

Albuminoid ammonia

1

0*0035

Oxydized nitrogen

0*132

Organic carbon

0*026

Organic nitrogen

0*0053

Potass oxide ...

o'93

Sodium oxide ...

1*01

Lime

6*16

Magnesia

0*83

Oxides of iron and alumina

trace

Chlorine

• • •

1*99

Sulphur trioxide

• •

0*47

Nitrogen pentoxide

• • •

0*51

Carbon dioxide

• ••

5*21

oiiica ... ... «•• «.■ ... 35

These constituents are probably thus contained : —

Grains per gallon.

Potassium sulphate

• . •

1*02

Potassium chloride

0*60

Sodium chloride

1*91

Calcium chloride

0*84

Magnesium nitrate

0*70

Calcium carbonate

10*25

Magnesium carbonate

I "34

Iron and alumina

traces

Silica

0*35

17*01

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 39

The carbonates are, of course, present as bi-carbonates.

After boiling the water is beautifully soft for washing or drinking.

It is an excellent water.

(Signed)

Albert J. Bernays, Ph.Dt., F.C.S., F.I.C.,

Prof, of Chemistry at St. Thomases Hospital^
Analyst to Kent Water Works Company ^ etc.

This water is clear, colourless, inodorous even on warming.
Amount of gas moderate, yet fairly aerated. Residue on evaporation
white, granular, darkening distinctly with burnt odour on ignition.
Ash white.

The greater part of the water supplied is now from the chalk
on the northern side of Swanage ; both are excellent waters, that
from the chalk being softer than the well source.

With regard to the water supply it might be mentioned that
records were published December 21st, 1877, in the Sanitary Record,
of the water supply at Weymouth. And a few years back there
were analyses of about eighty different waters made throughout
England. From the facts thus stated I gather that Weymouth,
Ryde, and one other place were so superior in their water supply,
and its composition, that they were put in the top list apart from
all the other supplies therein mentioned. From the report on the
Weymouth waters and the description of the situation and the sur-
roundings, the Ulwell and Weymouth waters appear identical,
both coming from between the greensand and the chalk, and from
the same range of hills. There is only one conclusion to be
arrived at from this — namely, that inasmuch as Weymouth water
takes such a high place at the very top of the tree, Swanage
water should at least be considered of equal value and salubrity.

The soil of Swanage towards the hills is either chalk or lime-
stone, but in the middle part of the bay it is clay and sediment to
a great depth.

There can be no doubt as to the healthiness of living on high
ground where there is a free vent to the splendid tonic air of
Swanage.

The south part of Swanage is all on solid hard stone formation,
but at a greater depth from the surface ; this part has always been
considered the healthiest part of Swanage, and to this I would
draw special attention to those contempalting taking up their

40 REPORT ON SWANAGE

residence here. I understand that it is the intention of Mr.
Burt to further open out this part of Swanage ; and ere long, no
doubt, it will be occupied by those seeking a most healthy and
desirable residence.

During the third week of December 1889 I paid my last visit
to Swanage, and was again personally conducted by Mr. Burt
over his property on the south and elevated part of Swanage.
It is called the " Durlston Park Estate," and consists of between
150 and 200 acres in all. A great deal of the land is already
laid out and ready for erecting residences here. It is also
surrounded by foliage and tropical plants of a most luxurious
description, many of which plants can only be cultivated on a
healthy soil and in an equable temperature, as is here found.
Some of the fine trees were planted about twelve years ago,
and are gradually growing up ; and promise ere long to become
fine specimens of their botanical class. This property may
be said to commence at the residence of a gentleman who,
though living at Bournemouth, recognizes the advantages of
Swanage over Bournemouth during a certain portion of the
year, and who has built the house with a view of placing it at
the disposal of his wife and family, who come over here from
May to November every year, during the period when Bourne-
mouth is so relaxing, and consequently has proved itself an
undesirable residence for many persons. This is situated on
the top of the cliff", and is called " Craig-y-Don." It has lovely
sea views, and of the valley generally ; and the air is splendid.
The " Durlston Park Estate " is situated on solid hard stone foun-
dation, and is therefore most suitable for residential purposes.
It may be said to face the south, with the Isle of Portland to
the west, the Isle of Wight to the east, Cherbourg at a distance
of 6^ miles to the south-east, and Bournemouth to the north-
east. The whole estate possesses sea frontages and magnificent
sea views, being on the summit of the cliff*. The air is splendid,
and a better site for a permanent residence can scarcely be con-
ceivable. A road called the "Zigzag" leads direct down the
cliffs to the seashore, so that those residing there can easily get
direct to the very water's edge. The water supplied to this
estate is from Mr. Burt's artesian well, and is therefore excellent.
The walks along the edge of the cliff" are well planned out and
made, being surrounded by trees and green shrubs. Connected

AS A HEALTH RESORT, 41

with Durlston Park Estate is " Durlston Park West," consisting
of 45 acres, all well arranged and suitable for building purposes.

"Sunnydale" shrubbery is well worthy consideration and
mention. Here can be seen many very rare plants, flowers in full
blossom even in the coldest part of the year, and where can be
recorded the greatest warmth existing at Swanage during the colder
months. The thermometer registers one degree higher minimum
than can be found down in the bay itself. During my recent
visit to Swanage I observed what I would desire to draw special
attention to — namely, the fact that the fogs and mists hang about
the channel, but do not touch Swanage. This I had a good op-
portunity of myself observing, and I also saw roses and other
flowers in full bloom.

I might mention that the Durlston Park Estate extends nearly
as far as the lighthouse on Durlston Point from '' Craig-y-Don ; "
and there is great opportunity for opening up this most desirable
locality as a very suitable residence for invalids.

I would also draw attention to "Durlston Castle," erected
by Mr. Burt on his estate — a beautiful building magnificently
decorated and arranged as a recreation place for those who visit
the locality. There is an observatory on the top, which has been
lent to Lloyds for the purpose of telegraphing the vessels which
pass Durlston Head. This is to commence from January ist,
1890. A telegraph is to connect this with Swanage, so that ships
passing will be telegraphed to Swanage and so on to London.

I would like to draw attention to a most interesting and
significant fact, which illustrates, beyond all doubt and argument,
the healthy aspect and situation of the Durlston Park Estate, to
which I have just referred in detail.

On December 6th, 1881, a large herring, caught in Swanage
Bay, was hung up by Mr. Andrews in the Steavenson's Screen of
the Meteorological Society's Station, Durlston Park, 178 feet
above the level of the sea.

It was taken down by the same gentleman in May 1884, having
remained where originally placed two years and five months.

It weighed when first caught eight ounces and a third. It
was also weighed when taken down, and it was then one ounce
and a third.

The fish was fuU-roed, it was not salted, gutted, or treated in
any way ; and when removed was found to be without the least

42 REPORT ON SWANAGE

decomposition, and during the whole of the period it had been
exposed it had not exhibited the least trace of such.

I might mention that in consequence of the opinion of an
eminent medical expert this experiment was made, and he
absolutely foresaw what would be the result.

In a letter to Mr. Burt with reference to the purity of Swanage
air he states that if he were asked to select the purest air in
England, or anywhere else as far as his knowledge was concerned,
he would take the top of the hill at Swanage, and said : " I will give
you an instance — the ' High Cliff' at Hastings has the reputation
of having the purest air in England, but if you take a herring
just caught from the sea and hang it up there, it will putrefy in
time, as it would anywhere else ; but, if you hung a herring up
on the top of the hill at Swanage (Durlston Park), it will ^ dry
off J " Hence the above experiment, which has been repeated many
times by Mr. Andrews with uniform results.

The herring, in question, is now perfectly sweet, and nothing but
skin and bone. Mr. Burt will show it to any one with pleasure.

This shows conclusively the influence of elevation, temperature,
and climate in producing and continuing a healthy state of affairs,
and proves the advantages to be gained by a residence on elevated
ground surrounded by the sea, such as is to be found on the
Durlston Park Estate, together with its great natural advantages,
the beauty of its situation, and the tonic invigorating air to be
found there.

The drainage of Swanage has occupied the attention of those
interested in the place for some time, and a vast improvement has
taken place in this respect. The cesspools, which were formerly
open, have been closed; in the days when open there was not
the same good supply of pure water as now exists, it being then
obtained from wells. These wells, with the cesspools, are also
filled up and closed, so that there now appears a positive improba-
bility of any epidemic occurring here, and there is nothing detri-
mental to health at all. The drainage is general, and Professor
Robinson, of Westminster Chambers, has prepared plans for a
thorough system of this, which will ere long be put into opera-
tion. About five years ago, there was a very slight epidemic
of typhoid fever at Swanage, but only two deaths. The fever was
distinctly traced to a dairy at Swanage, where the utensils were
washed in foul water, obtained from a brook in which a drain

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 43

had emptied itself. There has been no epidemic of any description
since, which speaks volumes as to the healthiness of Swanage.
There is not one single place which may be said to be totally free
from epidemics — and every year discloses this fact — and these are
generally of a severe type. But here we find that though the
epidemic was one of typhoid fever, there was in the air and
surroundings at Swanage so much of an invigorating and healthy
nature that the mortality was so small, and those aflfected were
easily restored to their wonted state of health. I am desirous of
revealing everything which has come to my knowledge, and there-
fore I simply give these facts, and also that there was a distinct
reason for it. Since this period the drainage has so much
improved, and other matters have been so satisfactorily attended
to, as to make Swanage as healthy as human power can, and I
here say authoritatively and emphatically that a healthy state has
prevailed there ever since the said epidemic happened, which as I
have previously said can be accounted for and traced to its origin.

I also affirm that few places, if any, can show such a clean
bill of health as Swanage does, and therefore it is with the
greatest satisfaction and pleasure that I am able to draw public
attention to the healthiness of the place, and to the general ex-
cellences of its surroundings. The Local Board has dealt vigor-
ously with all matters affecting the health of Swanage and its
inhabitants since this period.

The bathing at Swanage is excellent, and perfectly safe, there
being no holes for those who cannot swim to suddenly find them-
selves in. The sand is level and hard, and as such is excellent
for bathers, the sea being generally as calm as a lake ; and in the
bay there is little fear of being knocked over by the waves.

The healthy state of Swanage and its other advantages are
gradually becoming more generally known, and since the railway
has been opened the number of seekers after health has in-
creased. In 1889 there were 30 per cent, more than in 1888.
The fact that they come earlier and leave later is a proof of the
benefit which is found to the invalid and others in the colder
months of our inclement and treacherous climate, and in the more
exposed parts of England. The swallows' sojourn, who tolerably
register any climate by their absence and presence, during the
last nine years was recorded by Mr. Andrews in The Fields the
dates of their latest stay being, for the nine years, November

44

REPORT ON SWANAGE

nth, loth, 8th, 13th, 14th; October 31st, November 21st,
November i8th and 18th. This refers to flocks of birds, not to
solitary ones, and is the latest recorded stay of swallows in
numbers in England. Swanage also records their arrival in
England usually before they are seen in other localities. An
observer in a more northerly part of Dorset, in an experience of
twenty-five years, has fixed the date of their departure in his
locality as October i6th, or about one month earlier than at
Swanage.

Statistics have proved that Swanage is the coolest summer
residence on the south coast, and is another proof of its fitness for
invalids afilicted with other complaints besides those influencing^
the respiratory or circulatory systems.

Meteorological data have also shown that the least number of
rainy days are found in Swanage as compared with other parts of
England, and in this calculation eighty-six stations are considered.
It had also in 1881 the smallest rainfall of all seaside resorts
except Worthing, Ramsgate, and Southboume, and also the
smallest amount of cloud in England except Bournemouth,
Worthing, Portsmouth, and Finchley. It possessed the warmest
night temperature in England (minimum) except Ilfracombe,
Ventnor, and Maker. It had the smallest daily range in
England, except Ilfracombe. The following table will illustrate
this in 1 88 1 : —

KAKGB.

HEIGHT ABOVE SEA.

Feet.

Ilfracombe

91

2S

Swanage .

lo-o

178

Llandudno

10-3

79

Ventnor

10-9

80

Scarborough

II-2

157

Ramsgate .

II-4

105

Weston-super-Mare .

11*4

20

Worthing .

11^

21

Sidmouth .

117

1S6

Torquay "

I2-0

400

Bournemouth .

13*6

134

These data are taken from recently published reports, and
there is no reason to believe but that they give a very fair

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 45

average of the yearly discrepancies between the various places
here mentioned as being health resorts for invalids. There is no
occasion to compare the climate and health properties of Swanage
with such places on the Continent, where invalids are wont,
though not to the extent they used, to be sent by their medical
advisers. This, I am glad to say, is becoming more uncommon,
and physicians are beginning to look to their own country for
such advantages. At a recent meeting of the British Medical
Association at Leeds, very strong expression was given on this
question, and the universal opinion appeared to be that it was
cruel to send persons afflicted with consumption a long way from
their own homes and surroundings ; and that inasmuch as the two
things to be considered in consumption were the prolongation of
life and the warding off" the complications of the malady, and allevi-
ating symptoms as they occurred, it would be very desirable if
a place in our own country could be found where these two
could be carried out and combined, with equal good accruing as
on the Continent.

The time has now arrived for Swanage to receive its due,
and to be brought prominently before the profession and the
world, as a place possessing the desirabilities required so far as
climate, temperature, and situation are concerned, and which are
to be found in the old-fashioned and established continental health
resorts, formerly so sought after and so popular. Many a poor
invalid sent abroad with only a small amount of vitality remaining
exhausts this little before arriving at his destination, and succumbs
to the malady before those he loves so dear can arrive on the
scene and close his last days by their loving care and solacer
Nothing appears more dreadful than dying in a foreign lanie
among strangers, whilst those near and dear are separated by
many miles from the last and final scene. Now the railway has
brought Swanage and London into such close proximity that all
such danger as we have shown, and which might happen in a
foreign health resort, disappears, and a telegram can bring
down in a few hours, should any complication arise in the patient,
the friend or relation.

Many noted places in the south of France have very piercing
winds, which play havoc with many a poor invalid suffering
from pulmonary complaint. The wind, sometimes the mistral,
must take away what strength remains, and will destroy many

46

REPORT ON SWANAGE

a delicate constitution. I have previously drawn attention to
the fact that there is this freedom from penetrable winds, which
is so essential to consumptive patients, at Swanage, and that
no fear can be apprehended of such a calamity happening as is
caused by the piercing winds found in the south of France.

The spring is mild, and should the wind be in the easterly
direction, which is very rare and only temporary, it makes but little
impression at Swanage; the winters are also mild, and not once in
ten years is the ice of greater thickness than half a crown. As a
proof of the gradual manner in which Swanage is becoming known,
it might be mentioned that a large number of professional men
now go there ; and this year there have been one-third more in
the number of visitors than has been found in other years ; and
doubtless this increase will continue as the beauties and healthiness
of Swanage become generally known.

There is another point upon which much stress might be laid.
I allude to the absolute freedom from epidemic, the average rate
of mortality during the last ten years being 14*86 per 1,000.

There is an absence of stagnant water or sediment to be found
at Swanage, and the sea is always clear, except after a heavy rain,
and even then when rendered turbid it continues so only for a
very short period, soon regaining its natural clearness and colour.
The following table gives the Swanage rainfall during the years
1887, 1888, and 1889.

Swanage Rainfall, calculated in Inches.

1887.

1888.

1889.

January .

2-86

I -60

085

February

0-88

0-94

1-54

March .

0-86

3*35

2-12

April

065

1-26

1-82

May

1-91

1-91

1-31

June

093

2-39

0-66

July . .

065

301

2-00

August .

2*37

2-07

2-53

September

3*49

178

0*51

October .

2 -02

2*35

631

November

3-52

591

1*39

December

2-21

1-97

2-51

Inches

22*25

28-54

23-55

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 47

This shows what I have stated before, that the rainfall at
Swanage is very small as compared with published records of
other places.

Such a condition of things ought most admirably to suit persons
who are subject to asthmatic attacks, or who suffer from annual
winter coughs, or irritation of the bronchial membranes, and who
would be more liable to have an exacerbation in their symptoms
when exposed to a damp or marshy climate. The range of the
temperature of Swanage being so small compared with most
places, the air being so bracing and dry, and the nearly total
absence of fog, frost, and snow, should bring the little town to the
notice of all seeking a healthy spot, whether to go and settle down
definitely or during the colder months of the year.

I have previously mentioned that many diseases, such as
typhoid fever, diphtheria, and various obscure complaints, owe
their origin to impure water.

Whilst on my late visit to Swanage I had ample opportunity

of personally inquiring into these matters, and I made myself

sufHciently acquainted with the water supply and drainage of the

place, owing to the courtesy of Mr. Burt, to whose great energy

Swanage is becoming known as a health resort, and to whose

perseverance the people are indebted for the railway and the

general excellence of its surroundings. To a person worn out

by incessant work, whose nervous system requires relaxation,

not only from mental exertion, but from all possible noise and

excitement, he will find in Swanage a place where there is freedom

from the incessant and unnecessary excitement met with at

fashionable watering places, in many of which, from the terrible

noise occasioned by German bands or strolling nigger companies,

it is impossible for the invalid to obtain what he is sadly in

need of, and he is vainly attempting to find. But in Swanage,

happily for the inhabitants and for invalids, there is, together

with the glorious climate, beautiful surroundings, and healthy

locality, a perfect freedom from all such nuisances, which are

becoming the pest of not only English health resorts, but which

have gradually found their way to continental towns of a similar

description.

The forms of complaint suitable to the climate of Swanage
may be specially mentioned as, first, cerebral complications,
where freedom from all noise is essential, and where a healthy

48 REPORT ON SWANAGE

climate and good, pure air and water become the principal
elements in the treatment of these complaints.

All medical men in England are conscious of the fact that the
influence of climate over disease is very great, and in choosing a
locality we must consider in what way the place selected can do
its work effectually so as to modify and alleviate human suffering.
In considering this matter many things have to be carefully-
weighed in the balance. We have the elements of temperature,
the amount of moisture or dryness in the air,' the presence or
absence of fogs, the amount of rainfall, the situation of the locale^
the supply of water, and the drainage, all of which I have shown
are excellent at Swanage. And all these will themselves become
essential in the care and management of that class of maladies
to be dealt with and combated, — I allude to diseases of the lungs,
or affections of the circulatory organs, and to all complaints
associated with difficulty in breathing. In atmospheres which are
more or less damp, and which cannot be depended upon, we have
ague, rheumatism ; and it has been shown, in the annual report
of the medical officer of the Privy Council, that the much dreaded
complaint consumption, and its spread, bears a direct ratio to the
dampness of the soil. From the previous remarks it may be
gathered that Swanage must act as a preservative so far as this
is concerned.

One of the principal causes for a return of the more unpleasant
symptoms in disease is a sudden change of temperature, as may
be found in the south of France and in Italy ; the sudden change
from warmth to cold at Nice is a proverbial fact. This frequently
renders the consequences most severe to the invalid, and often
brings on, in cases of consumption, attacks of haemorrhage, which
prove fatal to the sufferer. In Swanage no such sudden change
is observable, as may be seen from a perusal of the meteorological
tables.

As an instance, in the recent month of December (1889) the
mean minimum temperature at Nice for the month, as published
daily in the Standard^ was 38*5, while at Swanage it was 36*8 ;
or a difference of less than two degrees only ! whilst the range of
temperature is very considerably less at Swanage than at Nice.

Persons afflicted with consumption may, in the early stages
of the complaint, be gently guided through a severe and distress-
ing winter without any serious complications arising if they

AS A HEALTH RESORT, 49

choose such a place as Swanage for their residence during the
treacherous months of the year. At Ventnor there is a hospital
for such cases; but by comparing the advantages for the relief
of this complaint between Swanage and Ventnor, it will be at
once seen that the preference as a resort for this malady must be
given to Swanage over Ventnor, inasmuch as the former place
hafe the smallest daily range of temperature in England, and the
smallest amount of cloud, except Bournemouth, Worthing, Ports-
mouth, and Finchley. It follows therefore, as a matter of course,
that as consumptives ^re known to improve at Ventnor, and many
to be safely guided through the cold months without any
harassing and distressing symptoms arising, and without any
exacerbation in their complaint, a place which can be shown
to possess even further health advantages, as Swanage evidently
and undoubtedly does, should commend itself to the most earnest
consideration of all seeking such an abode.

Another great advantage to be met with in Swanage, speaking
from a health point of view, is the smallness of the population.
When a place is over-crowded this state of affairs increases the
liability to disease, and prevents those living there, or who have
gone in search of health, from enjoying the free benefit of fresh
air, which becomes contaminated by germs emanating from crowded
rooms, or from the effluvia of drains and sewers and decomposing
vegetable matter, and prevents the inhalation of pure oxygen
and ozone, so essential in preserving health, and which in them-
selves assist the poor stricken down invalid in recovering his
vis vitce; whilst constantly breathing impure air, such as is found in
an over-populated place, not only impedes recovery, but positively
produces disease in itself, and recovery to a state of convalescence
in those who are suffering from any affection is tardy, and in some
cases positively prevented. Fever is spread, and the place at
once goes into the black books of health resorts.

From what I have previously said of Swanage it can easily
be seen that there is no such danger existing here. The air and
water supply being good, and the former most invigorating and
exhilarating ; whilst practical experience has shown that the effect
of this soon becomes evident to the invalid, who rapidly regains
his former health after a short residence here. I have also
found that so great are the benefits to be here observed that
often an immediate change takes place for the better in the

4

50 REPORT ON SWANAGE

invalid. This is not to be wondered at, for there is not only the
great change of scene and surroundings, but also the advantages
to be found here, which in themselves are so conducive to health.

In considering the natural advantages of any place, various
things have to be taken into careful deliberation. The winds,
the rainfall, the range of temperature, the state of the atmosphere
generally, and its pressure ; also the conditions of the place which
impede or assist circulation and respiration, the ventilation and
climacteric influence, the situation and aspect of the tdwn, the
humidity, pressure, and electric tension, and any modifications
of these. It is a sine qud non that these should be in a satisfactory
state to commend the place to our consideration as a residence
suitable for invalids, who are most sensitive to sudden or other
changes of the temperature and weather ; and therefore such a place
should be recommended where but slight variations in these exist.
A fluctuation in temperature or in moisture will afiect materially
their condition, and will impede the recovery from disease, and
often aggravate their sufferings in a way inconceivable to many.

In England, for more reasons than we can here mention, our
climate is a strange and peculiar one, and naturally so, in con-
sequence of the very variable winds to which we are subjected at
various seasons of the year. It is of great rarity to find any place
where an equable state of things can at all be depended upon.
The difference between the temperature of winter and summer
is on an average about 21°. The annual mean temperature in
England in the country is 49721°, in London it is i'S79^
higher. The annual average temperature during the four months
of the year, according to Mr. Glaisher, is in winter 39*333°^
spring 52*833°, summer S9'933°, and autumn 44-600°, — the mean
temperature of the summer half-year being 56*524° and that of the
winter half-year, 41-718°, the difference thus between the two being
14-806° ; whilst the mean temperature by day, the highest, is on an
average for 20 years 56*345°, whilst the lowest temperature by
night is averaged at 42*204°, the difference being 14*141°. In all
latitudes January is the coldest month in the year, and July the
wannest north of the equator above 48°, and August of all lower
latitudes. The effects of temperature in causing and preventing
disease are most marked. A warm and equable climate, as seen in
Swanage, lessens the tendency to, and diminishes the mortality
from, consumption, apoplexy, and heart complications. Bronchitis

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 51

and inflammation of the lungs decrease as the temperature of the
year advances.

During the dry and hot weather fevers become continuous, and
in weather characterized by excessive moisture they often become
malignant in their type.

The vital power is depressed by continuous cold, the blood
gravitates to the most dependent parts of our frame, the mucous
membranes become congested, and we have bronchitis, and in-
ammation of the internal organs generally. Sudden death and
paralysis frequently occur during excessive snowstorms, or when
high winds prevail.

In October, which is generally proved to be the wettest month
in the year, the amount of rain-fall is 3*o6, whereas in December,
the finest month in the year, it is I'SO; the next wettest months
in the year being November, July, and August, the amount of
rain respectively being 2*433, 2773, and 2*50. If we take the
average of a number of years we find that it rains in this country
nearly every other day ; but in some localities rain falls almost
daily, whilst in others the annual fall is below the average.
Temperature, so instrumental to a healthy state of affairs, does
not solely depend upon the direct influence of the sun's rays, but
very much on the aspect of the place and the variableness of the
climate. In Swanage the inhabitants owe their good health and
immunity from disease to the conditions there found. Many persons
who are subject to periodic attacks of asthma, and who have what
is called a *' winter cough " as regularly as the cold months come
round, cannot breathe freely in places which are subject to a
constant change in temperature, or where too much moisture is
found in the atmosphere. An equable temperature, fresh, pure air^
plenty of ozone, which are to be found in Swanage, are absolutely
necessary for such individuals, to enable them to enjoy life at all,
and modify the complaint in the slightest degree. A chalky soil
also is beneficial to invalids; ozone is in itself a stimulus and
remedial agency in ameliorating disease, and Swanage abounds in
ozone. That harassing symptom, a dry hacking cough, so sym-
ptomatic of the early stage of consumption, is much relieved by
the inhalation of dry warm air, accompanied by a clear and bracing
atmosphere, which we have shown that Swanage possesses.
Irritability of the whole respiratory tract requires this dry soil^
together with plenty of ozone and a freedom from too rapid

52 REPORT ON SWANAGE

changes in the temperature. Dyspeptics also would soon find
an improvement in their varied symptoms by residence here.
The walks are plentiful, and many a hypochondriac will forget
his ailments and lose his melancholic turn of mind and enjoy
the health-giving exercise whilst imbibing the tonic and nutritious
air of Swanage.

In considering the advantages to be derived from a residence
during the cold weather here, we must briefly compare it with
other health resorts. In England I may mention Worthing,
Dover, Brighton, Ventnor, Bournemouth, Clifton, -Torquay, Pen-
zance, and Malvern. In the south of France, Nice and Pau.
Worthing possesses a soft and moist climate, and though situated
on the south coast is supposed to be warmer than Brighton,
though only a few miles distant. It possesses a clay soil, but
there is always a peculiar effluvium there, at least I have fre-
quently observed this when the tide is low, which makes me
question whether such can be healthy in itself. Dover is much
exposed to north winds, though it is sheltered by the cliff's
from the east ones. The same applies to Hastings, to which
place many consumptives repair ; the lower town is sheltered, but
on the east or west hill the winds are frequently cold and piercing,
and the invalid is unable to bear their severity and intensity.
Brighton, now called " London-super-Mare," is simply a fashion-
able watering place, over-crowded in every way, with nothing to
commend it as a residence for invalids; and I much question
whether the system of drainage is good. There is a cold dry
east and north-east wind during the spring months of the year,
and this would make it a place quite unsuitable for those aff*ected
with pulmonary complaints.

Ventnor is doubtless much resorted* to by Londoners who are
afflicted with pulmonary complaints. It has the advantage of being
close, and has a soft and warm climate, and the air is bracing and
invigorating; but though this place may be considered by some
to approach nearly perfection it does not possess in every way
the great advantages of Swanage. One great disadvantage is
that it is overrun with invalids of every description, which is
very depressing. Bournemouth, though on the opposite side to
Swanage, is in no way so good a residence for invalids. The
air is much too relaxing, and after staying there a short time the
invalid feels this. There is a want of the tonic air so conspicuous

\

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 53

in Swanage. I also would mention the comparative warmness
of the Swanage mimimum temperature, and the coolness of the
maximum temperature, throughout the year, as compared with
Bournemouth, and hence of course the smallness of range at
Swanage. Many of the invalids from Bournemouth will probably
migrate over to Swanage as time rolls on.

In Clifton the air is too dry, from the fact that by its situation
the limestone rock absorbs nearly all the moisture. Torquay is
warm, but the temperature is not equable ; and Penzance, though
it has some undeniable advantages, is so far off that this must be
taken as one great drawback to a temporary residence. In the
south of France, especially Nice, the nights are so cold, the days
vary in degree as to heat and cold, and the winds are cold, dry,
and sharp, being chiefly in the northerly direction. I give the
annual mean temperature of some of these places, including
Swanage.

Annual Mean Temperature,

London ... ... ... ... ... 50*48

Hastings 5073

Brighton 49*45

Ventnor ... ... ... ... ... 50*69

Clifton ... ... ... ... ... 51*26

Torquay ... ... ... ... ... 52*12

Penzance ... ... 51*80

jl\ wj^ ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ^ w y X

Swanage ... ... ... ... ... 50*00

The daily range of temperature at Swanage averages 9*5
degrees annually, being the least range on the south coast, whilst
in the four winter months the daily range averages only ^'6
degrees.

The old writers on disease attach very much importance to the
situation and aspect of a place ; and Hippocrates was one of the
first, physicians who especially drew attention to this. The purity
of the Swanage air must act very beneficially in exterminating
disease, and acting as a remedial agent in preventing it. The chief
essentials to a healthy state, and therefore the best preventatives
against disease, are a good aspect, a proper soil and elevation,
a good temperature as unchangeable as possible, and a proper
amount of dryness or moisture in the atmosphere. Especially

54 REPORT ON SWANAGE

when dealing with mental disorders we require a cheerful surround-
ing, with nature's beauties to absorb and occupy our thoughts,
and cause us to forget any imaginary or real grievance which
may be engaging our attention. The lovely situation of Swanage,
its walks by the sea, or in those artificial paths cut on the very
mountain edge, constructed out of what was a mere wilderness,
and which seemingly was impossible, with the beautiful trees,
which though but recently planted are growing rapidly, — the whole
planned and carried out through the energy and ability of Mr.
Burt, — are such that must ever give to the place a charm, asso-
ciated with all the advantages which nature has already bestowed
upon it. A walk to the caves or to the globe at Durlston Head,
and the enjoyment of the glorious view there obtained, will give
increased vigour to many a poor invalid prostrated by disease,
whether that be mental or bodily. The tint of the leaves adds
much to the beauty of the summer and autumn day. Change of
scene is of little value in cases of advanced consumption, and it
is only in incipient cases, and where the malady is threatening,
where much benefit can ensue from a residence in a locality
possessing climacteric advantages.

The advanced consumptive rarely becomes conscious of his
real condition, and to the last he believes in a possibility of throw-
ing ofi" the dire disease, and is cheerful to the end.

Struma causes sad havoc in various constitutions, and there
is no complaint where the influence of climate plays such an
important part in influencing the nature of this obscure but un-
fortunately increasing mischief as this. Many of the ills which
flesh is heir to are due to strumous constitutions. Consumption
frequently is the result of struma, which may be either acquired or
hereditary. In this sort of complaint there is nothing like a residence,
combined with good water, pure air, and a dry and bracing resi-
dence, by the sea-coast. A soft, too relaxing, and moist atmosphere
is worse than useless in combating with this malady. To
eradicate such a complaint from the constitution is not a matter
of months, but of years, and a permanent residence at Swanage
would be highly desirable in every way. Children suffering from
rickets, or from some strumous affection, are taken frequently
to the seaside for a few weeks, under the unfortunate belief that a
short sojourn in a healthy climate is all that is required to restore
them to health.

\

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 55

This is a fallacy, for, whilst necessitating a great expenditure of
time and money, it is not in any one instance followed by good
and permanent results. What is here wanted is a residence of long
duration in a place which in every way, from its situation and
other surroundings, is suitable for such a case. I say emphati-
cally that no better place could possibly be chosen to combat with
the malady than Swanage ; and I should think that in a year or so
after sojourning here, that the more unfavourable symptoms will
have disappeared, and the sufferer be in a fair way to regain
his pristine vigour. On the other hand, if no such change in
residence is insisted upon, and he is subject to the vicissitudes of
wind and weather, he will doubtless become a chronic invalid, and
lose all hope and chance of throwing aside his infirm condition ;
whilst had he followed out the advice here given, and gone to
Swanage whilst the disease was in its infancy, and whilst there
was a chance of warding off the more serious complications and
sequelce incidental to the affection, he would have had the best
possible chance of regaining health and strength. For this sort
of case, so frequent in our great community, Swanage must
especially commend itself, for the reasons previously stated.

Incipient consumption, or the threatened symptoms in those
predisposed to the complaint, can be relieved here, and the most
marked and distressing signs kept at bay, provided the sufferer
himself performs his part of the contract, and does not, as he
apparently improves, become imprudent in his own habits and
actions.

I have shown that the wind is rarely in the east at Swanage,
and the dryness and condition of its temperature are much
dependent on this. Many complaints owe their origin to the
east winds. Affections of the throat and air passages, and even
inflammation of the lungs, are caused primarily by an exposure
to the east wind. Consumptives become worse, and die from this
exposure, which is often associated with fog ; but as I have shown
this is rarely met with at Swanage. Whilst the healthfulness
of a west wind is well known both to those in the enjoyment of a
mens sana tn corpore sano and to the poor afflicted ones stricken
down by disease.

The soil on the hilly ground, to the north and north-west of
Swanage, is formed of chalk like the South Downs, but the rock in
some places is much harder.

56 REPORT ON SJVANA GE

The rising ground on the south is formed of Purbeck beds,
which comprise a series of clays or marls and limestones. Some
of the upper beds as well as the central beds are hard and solid
stone. The lower Purbeck beds are mostly soft and crumbling
marls.

The vale that lies between the chalk hills and the Purbeck
stone hills of Swanage is formed of sands and crimson-coloured
clays that have been hollowed out, forming the bay. These strata
are of the age of those in the weald of Kent and Sussex.

The soil on the south side is therefore dry and tonic, and
most invigorating, and as such is a very suitable soil for invalids
to reside on; whereas too much clay in a soil, as is found in
some of our health resorts, has been found to be unhealthy from
the accumulation of superficial water and moisture, and may ^v^
rise to a marshy condition, so conducive to asthma and ague,
and which often lays the foundation of disease. A gravelly soil
is healthy, for the simple reason that the drainage is so easy, and
there is little risk or fear of malaria ; but beyond this we can say
but little to commend such a soil to the invalid for a residence.

Of course in dealing with this part of our subject I have
a difficult task to pursue, so many things have to be taken into
consideration in influencing disease and in treating it successfully.
I can only speak confidently as I have found Swanage, and in
stating that it in every way comes up to my ideal of a health
resort I have not in any way exaggerated the subject. The
data placed before me and my own investigations whilst there are
my excuse for writing as I now do on the beauties and health
properties of the place.

With regard to the amount of sun, Swanage can give the splendid
record of 41 per cent, of possible duration of sunshine annually.
From this fact it is well adapted for invalids. The comparative
freedom from fogs must commend itself; the peculiar position of
the high cliffs and Purbeck hills, formed like a horseshoe from
the posterior part of the town, so that neither the sea fogs drifting
up Channel, nor the land fogs on the north side of the Purbeck
line of hills, can reach Swanage valley ; consequently a fog there
must be very exceptional.

During the early part of December 1889, Brighton was en-
veloped in very thick fogs for many days : so thick were these
that the sea could not be distinguished. Hastings has also

1

AS A HEALTH RESORT. 57

suffered during this period from fogs. Swanage therefore
claims great advantages, which are perceptible, over these two
places.

During the year 1889 there has been but one fog at Swanage.
This lasted only four hours, and occurred on the 17th of November.
It appears that this fog arose under such circumstances in which
alone fogs could occur there. For some days previous to this fog,
the barometer had registered very high degrees, and there was
consequently an absence of wind, and the channel outside became
full of fog, there being a slight draught of south-easterly wind which
wafted some of this fog into the otherwise sheltered bay of Swanage,
where it remained for an hour or so, until a current of air from an
opposite direction carried it out again into the channel. It is only
when this south-east wind occurs that a fog can settle at Swanage,
and it is of very rare occurrence. During the years of meteoro-
logical observations, only two fogs have been thus recorded at
Swanage. Although fogs could be observed hanging about the
channel, they did not molest Swanage.

This is a positive proof of the salubrity of the place. Those
affected with irritation of the bronchial organs, whose great diffi-
culty, and consequently whose chief suffering, consists in gasping
for breath, and to whom the constant inhalation of fogs is most
pernicious will find at Swanage, from its nearly absolute free-
dom from such influences, a habitation where they can live and
breathe in peace, without the constant panting for breath so
characteristic of their disease; and where, from the removal of
the concomitant unpleasantness of fogs, they can enjoy the air of
purity, so essential for an amelioration in their symptoms.

I propose to refer to the meteorological reports for the years

1 88 1, 1882, and 1883, the first taken from seventy-seven differ-
ent stations, 1882 from seventy-nine, and 1883 from eighty-one
stations (situated at 178 feet above the sea-level).

In 1 88 1 the mean temperature of Swanage was 48*8, and in

1882, 50*0. The mean minimum night temperature for the year
1881 was 43*8, and was only exceeded, during the year, by three
stations in England — viz., by Maker, where the mean temperature
was 44*5; Ventnor, where it was 45 'O; and Ilfracombe at 46*5.
In 1882 it was 45*3 at Swanage, whilst at Maker it was 45*8,
and at Helston 46*1, at Hastings and Weymouth 46*2, Falmouth
and Ventnor 46*9, and Ilfracombe 47-8.

58

REPORT ON SWANAGE

The mean daily range of temperature at Swanage in 1 88 1
— that is to say, the difference between the daily minimum
and daily maximum temperature — ^was lO'O, being the smallest
range of all stations except Ilfracombe, which registered 9*1, and
Scarborough 97. In 1882 this was at Swanage 9*4, being the
smallest but two stations — viz., those of Falmouth at 9*1 and
Ilfracombe 8*4.

With regard to the greatest amount of sunshine, Swanage
stands fifth on the list of seventy-seven stations in 1881, and in
the same position out of seventy-nine stations in 1882, and also
in 1883 out of eighty-one stations (fifth in three consecutive
years). The amount of rainfall for 1881 was 30*37 inches, falling
on one hundred and twenty-four days, having the smallest number
of rainy days of all the stations; and in 1882, 34*92 inches, falling
on one hundred and seventy-two days. During this year there
were eight stations recording a smaller number of rainy days.
In 1883 the rainfall was 27*36. It might be as well to mention
that o*oo6 inches or ten minutes' duration of rain, constitutes
a " rainy day."

The actual lowest and actual highest temperature recorded at
Swanage in 1881, the year of the great frost, was 12*7 as the
lowest, and 81*7 as the highest, whilst these were at Bourne-
mouth respectively ii*2 and 85*5. In 1882 the lowest at
Swanage was 22*5, the highest 71*9, and at Bournemouth 20*0
and 80*0.

The cold experienced during March of 1883 was intense, and
Mr. W. Marriott, in reading a paper before the Meteorological
Society, drew attention to this fact by stating that this was the
coldest March, with two exceptions, since 1789, and that the
stations which, in March 1883, had the least number of frosts
were Ilfracombe, Falmouth, Aberystwith, Llandudno, Helston,
Swanage, Teignraouth, and Ventnor.

1881.

Lowest Temperature recorded
during Year.

Highest Temperature
recorded during Year.

Extreme
Range.

Swanage . . . 127
Bournemouth . . 11 -2

817

8S-S

69-0

74*3

AS A HEALTH RESORT.

59

This year was quite exceptional, being the year of the great
frost, when the temperature fell far below zero at many places
in England; whilst, on July iSth of this year, greater heat was
recorded than in the previous fifty years, — the heat at Wimbledon
being registered at 97*0, whilst the temperature at Swanage was
817, and at Ventnor 81 '6. By reference and comparing this with
other places we see that these were the two coolest places in
England on July 15th, 1881.

1882.

Lowest Temperature recorded
during Year.

Highest Temperature
recorded during Year.

Extreme
Range.

Swanage . . . 22*5
Bournemouth . . 20*o
Torquay. . . . 22-5

71*9
8o-o
72*6

49*4
6o-o

50-1

During the above year it is a matter worthy of note that
Swanage had the smallest extreme range on the south coast,
except Fabnouth, Ventnor, and Worthing.

1883.

Lowest Temperature recorded
during Year.

Highest Temperature
recorded during Year.

Extreme
Range.

Swanage . . . 23-6
Southbourne . . 23-0
Torquay. . . . 23-9

72-9
77-0

75-2

49*3
540

51*3

This year Swanage had the smallest extreme range on the
south coast, except Falmouth ; but Bournemouth is not recorded
in these tables, for the reason that, after 1882, no observations
were taken there, and therefore we have inserted those taken at
Southbourne.

6o

REPORT ON SWANAGE

Monthly Average for Three Years of Minimum Temperature and

OF Average Daily Range at Swanage.

Averag^e Minimum
Temperature.

Daily Range.

1881.

January ) (The
February ( Great Frost)

287

95

35-2

7*3

March

38-4

96

April .

39*2

ii-o

May .

46- 1

12-4

June .

49*2

11*6

July . . .

54*9

13-4

August

52-9

10*6

September

517

IO-2

October

42-8

9-8

November .

467

7*3

December .

396

7*2

1882.

January

387

7-1

February .

399

77

March

41-2

9-3

April .

43-1

IO-2

May .

46-3

11-3

June .

499

ii-i

July . . .

540

8-4

August

53*9

III

September

490

ii'9

October

47*9

8-9

November .

41-2

90

December .

38-4

71

1883.

January

39-9

6-8

February .

399

8-3

March*

327

lO-I

April .

407

IO-2

May .

45 -o

III

June .

49*8

1 1-4

July . .

52-5

9-5

August

54-3

ii-o

September

52-9

77

October

47*2

81

November).

41*6

8-8

December .

38-1

7*2

During the first week of December 1889, when great cold was
registered all over England, and excessive frost prevailed, we
can give most satisfactory statistics from Swanage, which will

* In March this year was the excessive coldness to which we have above
referred as being exceptionally frosty and cold throughout England.

AS A HEALTH RESORT,

6i

bring the subject of Temperature up toi date. East wind, we find,
prevailed there as elsewhere during the week, but no frost either
by night or by day. On December 4th it just touched freezing
point (32), but the previous and following days of the week,
when cold was excessive ever3rwhere, the lowest temperatures
were 38^, 37J, 37, 35, 36J, 35 ; consequently no snow fell as in
London and elsewhere.

The Swanage Meteorological Readings were taken at the top of
the hill on the Durlston estate, in the centre of an exposed field
and 178 feet above sea level.

Mean Temperature. (Mean of Maximum and Minimum Temperature

for the year 1881.)

Swanage .
Ventnor .
Torquay .
Bournemouth

Swanage .
Ventnor .
Torquay .
Bournemouth .

January.

•

1

•

•c

(X

<

•

§

•— >

•

•— >

•

<

i

0*

•

u

6

•

u

I

2

33*5

38*8

43'2

447

52*3

550

6r6

58*2

56*8

477

5o"4

34*9

407

45*1

47-0

53*9

577

63-1

597

5«7

49-1

51*5

34*5

40*3

44-1

46-2

537

56-2

6r8

58*3

568

48-8

50*3

32-3

38*8

43*8

46-6

53*4

56*3

62'5

58*8

56-3

47'i

49'3

u

s

Mean

Minimum Temperature.

287
29-4
29'!
25*8

35'2
36-1

35*8

33'9

38-4

39'3

38*2
36-9

39*2
407

39*2

38*4

46' I
47*1
457
43*9

49-2

51*5
497
49*2

54-9
56*2

53*6

53*4

52-9
53'2

52-4
52*4

517
53'5
50-1

49*4

42'8
44*1

437
40*2

467
47-8

45*9
44'4

Actual Lowest Point touched in each month.

Swanage .
Ventnor .
Torquay .
Bournemouth

127

26*1

257

29*6

36-1

39*1

48*2

45*4

47*2

297

36-4

14-9

26*4

27.4

29-8

38*3

39*4

50-2

45'3

48-1

317

39*o

156

247

217

28*8

38*9

38-9

47*o

48-0

44'9

29-3

35*9

11*2

24-5

24*0

28*0

31*6

36-9

41-1

43"4

41-8

26-5

30*3

43-2
44-0

427
42*0

39*6
40" I
38*2

37-7

29-4

307
278

27'6

Mean Range of Temperature, (Daily difference between
Minimum and Maximum Temperature^

Swanage •
Ventnor .
Torquay .
Bournemouth

9*5

7*3

9*6

ii-o

12*4

11-6

13*4

io*6

IO'2

9*8

T^

II'O

9*2

"•5

127

13-6

I2'3

139

II'O

io*3

lO'I

rs

IO-8

9*o

11*8

i3"9

i6-o

i3'i

16-4

117

13*4

10*3

87

I2'9

9*9

13-8

i6'3

19*0

14*2

l8'2

12-8

13*9

137

9*9

7.2

7-8
91

8*5

Extreme Range. (Difference between Actual Lowest and Actual Highest

Point touched each month,)

Swanage .
Ventnor .
Torquay .
Bournemouth .

35-6
357
35*1
39*5

22'8

267
27*0
27*6

32*9
32*5
38*3
377

28*4

327
317
347

36-0

35*9
35-7
43*3

35*9
35'2
42*2

38'4

33*5
3i"4
37*1
44*4

236
29*2
26-6
26*2

21*5
22'6

257
26*9

31*1
300

32*2
35*4

21*2

21*5
24-1

30-0

23'9
24*2

25-4
26-3

The following conclusions I have arrived at from the perusal
of the Meteorological Society's Reports.

62 SWANAGE AS A HEALTH RESORT.

1. That Swanage, Isle of Purbeck, Dorset, is situated eight
miles south of Bournemouth and sixteen miles west of the Isle
of Wight

2. That the winter at Swanage is dry, mild, equable, and
bracing.

3. That it is surrounded by the sea on three sides.

4. That it is protected from land and sea fogs, on the north by
the Purbeck hills, on the south and west by the Channel cliffs.

5. That the temperature during four months of winter, i.e.
November to February, the mean daily maximum is 48*1° ; the mean
nightly minimum is 40*5° (two consecutive years' observations).

6. That in the four winter months the daily range of temperature
is 7*6^ , being the smallest range of any health resort of the south
coast, from Dover to Land's End, including the Isle of Wight and
Guernsey. The annual daily range stands at the remarkably low
record of less than 10°.

7. That it is favoured with 36 per cent, of possible sunshine in
four winter months.

8. That the average annual rainfall is from 28 to 29 inches.
In the dry year 1887 it was 22*50 inches, and this year (1889)
23-55 only.

9. That the average of mortality during ten years from 1875 to
1886 was I4'93 per 1,000.

10. That it has the coolest and least range of temperature of
any place on the south coast during the summer months.

These statements are indisputable, and prove beyond doubt that
Swanage must be regarded as a most excellent health resort. I
cannot conclude without expressing my great admiration of the
way in which Mr. Burt has opened out this place, and made it so
desirable, so far as artificial work can do, for invalids. Nature has
done her part here, and all that human aid can do has been done
to further the healthiness of the situation at the hands of this
indefatigable gentleman, to whom the town must owe a lasting
debt of gratitude — whose sole desire in life is to further the wel-
fare and health of the place, if this is possible, -for tlie benefit of
humanity in general.

' ,1

I : (•

- 1

* Jt 9 «*

'in* mm'm m « "

R

id

aw Ei

,,5"V„..—»

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE.

By HORACE B. WOODWARD, F.G.S.,

0/ the Geological Survey of England and Wales,

tjt^w y^ff f^BBHE ancient history of the earth is written in the rocks

which form the ground on which we live. Hence any
spot, whether brick-yard, gravel-pit, or quarry, where
the rocks are exposed to view, must be of interest to
^^l^. the geologist Far more interesting must be the cliffs along our
coasts, where we can clearly follow up these records and trace the
sequence of events ; and Swanage is indeed well situated for the
students of geology. The beds of rock, or strata, which form, as
it were, the pages of geological history, stand out boldly, and contain
within themselves those records of ancient life and physical con-
dition which it is the chief object of the geologist to decipher.

To the uninitiated the cliffs are picturesque enough, and the
variations in their stony structure serve but to lend diversity to
their forms. The visitor cannot fail to observe the dark shales of
Kimmeridge, the rugged rocky cliffs of St. Aldhelm's (St. Alban's)
and Durlston Heads, the sands and crimson-coloured clays of
Swanage Bay, and the white chalk cliffs of Handfast Point.

The geologist, too, is ready enough to admire the modem
features ; while he sees, in the waste of the coast-line, and in the
mineral matter transported by streams and rivers, the work of
geological agents whose continuity through past ages has been
broken only over limited areas of the earth's surface. It is not

* i \ sufficient for him to find shale here, or chalk there, and sand
at another place. He must determine their relative position, and

'\^ the position they occupy in reference to other strata that compose

* ( portions of the earth's crust. He must unearth the fossil forms

of life entombed in the strata. Nor is it sufficient to frame tables
3*4^^ of strata and lists of species with hard-sounding names. These

f!muwn«\^.

64 THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE.

are but the bald facts from which deductions may be made. The
aim of the geologist is to restore in imagination the conditions
that have occurred in the past, and that lead up to the life, climate,
and scenery of the present. This he is enabled to do by utilizing
the knowledge (acquired by many observers) of the present dis-
tribution of life on the surface of the earth and in the waters,
and of the various sedimentary and other accumulations laid down
on the beds of seas, rivers, and lakes. Then comparing the past
with the present an accurate general notion may be gained of the
physical history of various bygone periods.

Of the many periods into which geological, like human, his-
tory is for convenience divided, Swanage furnishes materials for
some important chapters. Indeed, among its strata we find the
Kimmeridge clay and the Purbeck beds taking their names from
the very district we purpose to describe. The story unfolded is
full of interest, and although, excepting in its latest chapters, the
geology of Swanage has no direct connection with human affairs,
yet indirectly, in the economic products which are yielded by the
rocks, the subject is associated with the every-day life of many
individuals. Nor can those who attempt to read the history of
the rocks divest themselves from the interest imparted to the
district by its associations with the . geologists of old, — Webster,
Fitton, Mantell, Edward Forbes, and Bristow, not to mention the
names of living geologists to whose researches we are so much
indebted.

The student commencing work in the region of Purbeck should
first make himself acquainted with the order of succession of the
rocks ; and as in some places the cliffs ars quite inaccessible by
land, it is desirable first of all to take a general view of them with
the aid of a boat.

Commencing at Kimmeridge Bay, we find a series of dark and
iron-stained shales, with layers of cement-stones or septaria.
This is the Kimmeridge Clay which forms the cliffs for some
distance along this part of the coast, and stretches along the fore-
shore in a broad and slippery pavement. The cement-stones
where they occur near the sea-level form the Kimmeridge Ledges,
that serve partially to protect the coast-line, and indeed account
for the irregularities which form the bay. Rolled pebbles of these
septaria are scattered along the beach, while the crumbling away
of small portions of the shale above occasionally reminds the

,'i

1

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE. 65

pedestrian in an uncomfortable manner of the waste of the cliffs
by meteoric agencies. Springs issue at numerous points along the
cliffs, and an occasional stream descends in the form of a cascade.
The strata are displaced by numerous faults, doubtless produced
during the upheaval of the strata ; for the Kimmeridge Clay in the
Bay occurs in an arched or anticlinal form, overlaid westwards in
Gad Cliff and eastwards at Encombe and other places by succeed-
ing deposits.

Proceeding eastwards from Kimmeridge Bay, past Hen Cliflf
(surmounted by ClavelFs Tower), and past the " coal-works," we
may notice that the general dip or inclination of the dark shales
is towards the east ; indeed, they finally disappear beneath the sea-
level below St. Aldhelm's Head. They are, however, covered at
Encombe, Emmet's Hill, and St. Aldhelm's Head by grey and
greenish-coloured sands and loams, that contain large masses of
calcareous sandstone. These blocks, which possess a rounded
appearance, are simply portions of the sands cemented here and
there by carbonate of lime. There is a gradual passage upwards
from the Kimmeridge Clay through dark sandy clays into this
newer series, which goes by the name of the Portland Sands.

Still higher, and capping the same hills at Encombe and east-
ward, we may discern a group of dark-brown ragged-looking cherty
rocks, and above them lighter freestones, that together constitute
the Portland Stone. It is these hard rocks which form the
rugged coast westward at Gad Cliff, and the iron-bound coast
from St. Aldhelm's Head to Durlston Head : a coast that furnishes
many a melancholy record of shipwreck, but which presents a
grand appearance and a formidable front to the angry seas of
the Channel. Passing along this portion of the coast we may
notice several stone-quarries, and some natural caverns and
fissures in the rocks, while here and there near the lighthouse,
and again at Durlston Head, dislocations of no great magnitude
may be seen to have affected the rocks. Thin and somewhat
irregular and undulating layers of grey stone may be noted in
places to overlie the more regular beds of Portland stone — the
upper portions of the latter being usually paler in tint. These
thin beds form the base of the succeeding Purbeck Beds, in which
especial interest may be said to centre in this district. The over-
lying portions of these Purbeck Beds are concealed beneath the
turf in the pleasant grassy slopes that rise above the cliffs.

5

66 THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE.

Rounding Durlston Head we come in sight of the cliffs that
extent to Peverel Point, close to Swanage, and these are almost
entirely formed of Furbeck Beds. Here the more rapid denuda-
tion of the softer Furbeck strata has given rise to Durlston Bay.
Less pictiu'esque and less grand than the Fortland rocks, the
Furbeck strata have the advantage in this region of being ac-
cessible on foot, and they constitute one of the celebrated hunting-
grounds of the geologist. The cliffs do not present a clear
unbroken series, for the strata, while dipping generally towards
Swanage, are dislocated and repeated in several places. The
Fortland stone occurs at the base of Durlston Head, overlaid by
somewhat shattered Furbeck strata ; but the junction is not easy
to determine, owing to the tumbled masses of rock, and to the
fact that the Fortland stone presents a rough scoriaceous appear-
ance, and is much covered by limpets, periwinkles, and barnacles.
The fault previously noticed on the other side of Durlston Head
is again intersected by the cliffs, and the tract adjoining the
headland is a good deal obscured by slips. Not until we pass the
zigzag path below the Refreshment House can we clearly trace
the upward succession of the Furbeck Beds, from the lower,
through the middle, to the upper division of these strata. When
once the succession of beds has been studied in detail the student
will be able to recognize the disconnected portions visible here
and there in the southern part of these cliffs. A considerable
fault has thrown the Middle Furbeck Cinder Bed and other strata
against the Lower Furbeck Beds on the north side of the zigzag ;
these latter beds consist for the most part of grey marls, with occa-
sional masses of gypsum or alabaster. Undulations and slight
dislocations affect the beds here and there as we trace them along,
but two dark bands are conspicuous among the strata above the
soft grey and yellow marls of the Lower Furbeck Beds. The
lower and rather lighter band is that known as the Dirt Bed or
Mammal Bed, to which attention will be again directed. But it
may be mentioned here that where this Dirt Bed comes to the
surface in the cliff to the north of the Refreshment House, an
excavation, known as Beckles' Cutting, was made many years ago
in search of the fossils for which the bed is noted.

The Dirt Bed marks the base of the Middle Furbeck Strata,
which comprise a series of blue and grey stone beds, including the
famous Swanage Stone and the Cinder Bed, overlaid by dark

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE. 67

clays. Approaching the Flag Staff the Middle Purbeck Beds are
overlaid by beds of shelly stone and clay that have a brown
appearance. These again are faulted and disturbed as we pro-
ceed onwards to Peverel Point, where we find beds of the
celebrated Purbeck Marble in the cliffs and in the ledges that
stretch into the sea, and form a protection to this part of the
coast.

Continuing our journey we pass the town and harbour of
Swanage, which serve to obscure the junction of the Purbeck Beds
with overlying strata ; but those who wish to study the relations
of these beds can do so at Mewps Bay, on the coast a few miles
west of Kimmeridge. There a gradual passage is shown to bind
the formations together.

Swanage Bay has been hollowed out in a series of yellow
sands, variegated clays, and shales, that overlie the Purbeck Beds
— dipping likewise towards the north. Occasional bands of grit
and masses of lignite may be noticed in this division, which is
known as the Wealden Beds, including representatives of the
Hastings Sand and Weald Clay. As we proceed we may note
repeated alternations of the red clays and yellow sands, the latter
of which have helped to form the welcome sandy shore that
borders the Bay.

Now we reach Punfield Cove, at the foot of Ballard Down, and
here, crowded as it were in a small geographical compass, are
several geological divisions, whose position is unfortunately much
obscured by slips.

The upper portion of the Wealden Beds comprises a series
of shales, and these are overlaid by blue clays, laminated beds of
sand and clay, and ferruginous sandy beds, classed as Lower
Greensand. Higher still in position are the dark blue and bluish-
green sandy clays known as Gault; and then come green and
yellow sandy beds, with harder bands or nodules of stone, classed
as Upper Greensand. All these groups of strata underlie the
Chalk which now rises in the bold hill of Ballard Down, part of
Purbeck Hill, and is abruptly cut off in the cliff, which rises about
two hundred and sixty feet above the sea-level. The dip of the
chalk is almost vertical for some little distance. Then a remark-
able fault is shown, which brings a curved and gently undulating
mass of chalk abruptly against and over the highly inclined beds,
as if the former had been forced over the latter ; indeed, the fault

68

THE GEOLOGY OF SWAN AGE.

in part of its course coincides with the lines of stratification of
the higher beds of chalk. An admirable picture of it, drawn by
Thomas Webster, is published in Englefield's great work on the
Isle of Wight. We pass several detached pinnacles of chalk, the
most conspicuous of which are known as Old Harry and his Wife,
the former about one hundred feet high; there are also several
large caves in the chalk.

Near the Foreland the chalk is much jointed and fissured,
giving the rock a buttressed appearance, features which have led
to the formation of the isolated pinnacles. Proceeding towards
Studland Bay, where the bedding is apparently horizontal, although
the chalk is somewhat faulted in places, we come to the southern
corner of Studland Bay, where the Eocene strata overlie the chalk.
The surface of the latter formation is furrowed or " piped " at
the junction with the Reading Beds. The lowest beds of this
formation are much charged with ferruginous matter, and they
contain green-coated chalk-flints.

The London Clay is much obscured, and we soon pass to the
Lower Bagshot Beds, shown at Studland in cliffs of pipe-clay
and sands, the latter brightly coloured like those of Alum Bay in
the Isle of Wight. Beyond, the coast line is fringed by Blown
Sands, and not until we have proceeded some distance past the
mouth of Poole Harbour do we again find the strata exposed in
the cliffs. The beds there have yielded many interesting fossils,
but lie beyond the region of Purbeck.

The following sequence in the strata is thus established : —

TERTIARY.

Eocene.

(Lower Bagshot Beds.
London Clay.
Reading Beds.

SECONDARY.

rChalk.
Upper Cretaceous.-! Upper Greensand.

loault.

Lower Cretaceous f^ ^ ,

Lower Greensand.
or "{

,., Wealden Beds.

Neocomian. I

Upper Oolitic TPurbeck Beds,
or \ Portland Beds.

Upper Jurassic iKimmeridge Clay.

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE. 69

Having thus ascertained the relative position of the strata on
the coast, the student will readily follow their extension inland.
The general dip being to the north, and the strike east and west,
we traverse newer and newer beds as we proceed from the south
coast northwards across the Purbeck district. Two ridges or
escarpments form the more marked features. The southern of
these is formed by the Purbeck Beds, and the northern by the chalk
range, which rises to elevations of four or five hundred feet.
Between them is a vale hollowed out of the softer Wealden strata,
while north of the chalk range is a plain, described by some
writers as a " dreary waste," formed of Tertiary sands and clays.

Thus the features inland, like those on the coast, are largely
due to the alternation of harder and softer rocks, on which the
agents of denudation have expended their forces.

The student will now naturally be desirous of investigating
the strata more fully, and of finding some of the fossil treasures
that may be stored up in them.

Fossils may be found at any spot in the Kimmeridge Clay, in
the cement-stones as well as in the shales. Some of the speci-
mens are partially replaced or coated by iron pyrites, and most
of them are very much flattened, as is usual in shale that has
undergone much compression from strata now or formerly over-
lying it. A favourite spot for collectors is Chapman's Pool, on
the coast below Renscombe.

Among the fossils that may be obtained at various points
along the coast are Ammonites bipleXy Aptychus (or TrigoneUites)
laius (considered to be the operculum of Ammonites), and several
species of Belemnites. Many delicate bivalves, such as Cardium
stn'atulum, Lucina mtnuscula, L, lineata, Avicula, and Exogyra
virgula are to be found; also univalves, such as Natica^ Alariay
and Cerithium. The Brachiopods include Lingula ovalis and
Discina latissima, and the Crustacea are represented by Pollicipes.
Insects are rare, so are Echinoderms, Corals, and Plants.
Foraminifera may be obtained by those who care to wash the
clay and extract these minute objects from the residue.

More striking are the vertebrate remains. Of Fishes we find
the forms known as Asteracanihus, Gyrodus, Hybodus, Lept'dotus,
PycnoduSy and SphceroduSy but we have usually to be content
with the discovery of fin-spines, palatal teeth, and scales. Many
remains of large Saurians, such as Pliosaurus^ PlesiosaumSf and

70 THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE.

Ichthyosaurus have been obtained, mainly through the energy
of Mr. J. C Mansel-Pleydell. A paddle of the PliosauruSy six feet
in length, is to be seen in the Dorchester Museum.

Crocodiles, known as Dacosaurus and Steneosaurus, together
with the Dinosaur Ornithopsis and the Pterodactyl, have also been
obtained. Many of the Saurian remains have been described by
Mr. J. W. Hulke.

It is thought that the hydrocarbons in the " coal " or bitumin-
ous shale of the coast may be due to the putrefaction of animal
matter. The best bed or "Blackstone" is a dense bituminous
shale, worked together with ten or twelve feet of other beds in
the cliff at Little Kimmeridge. The composition of the Black-
stone is about 6 1 per cent, of volatile matter, 13 of carbon, and
26 of ash. This Black bed has from early times been employed
as a fuel by the cottagers, although the smell is decidedly un-
pleasant. During the past forty years efforts have been made
to utilize the Kimmeridge shale by distillation ; its products being
naphtha, pitch, lubricating oil, disinfectants, and manure. No
great success has, however, attended the enterprises, partly no
doubt owing to the expense of carriage to and from Kimmeridge.

The lowest beds of the Kimmeridge Clay are not exposed at
Kimmeridge. To see them we must journey a long distance west-
wards to Ringstead Bay. There the lower beds may be seen
reposing on the Corallian rocks; they yield Ostrea deltoidea,
Rhynchonella inconstans, and other forms not found in the higher
beds. It was in that neighbourhood that spontaneous combustion
of the cliffs took place in 1826, owing to the decomposition of
iron-pyrites, and the consequent ignition of the bituminous shale.

The Kimmeridge Clay is about i,(X)0 feet in thickness, though
a thicknessiof no more than 650 feet is seen at Kimmeridge. It
is one of the most persistent formations in this country, present-
ing similar characters throughout its extent from Dorsetshire
through the country to Lincolnshire, and to the Yorkshire coast
bordering the Vale of Pickering. In the neighbourhood of
Kimmeridge it forms a fertile tract of grass-land. Formerly there
were alum-works at this locality, and the cement-stones of
Broad Beach were employed for making cement, being sent over
to Medina, in the Isle of Wight.

The Portland Sands do not constitute a rich field for the
collector, nor are the fossils usually well preserved. Ammonites,

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE. 71

Pecterif Trigonia^ MytiluSf Exogyra^ Thractay and other forms may
be found.

There is a good exposure of the beds under Gad Cliff, but the
pedestrian may be warned not to proceed westwards along this
coast in the hopes of reaching Worbarrow Bay. Not many would
be tempted to proceed very far, for there is no track-way, and
progress has to be made over and between huge tumbled blocks
of rough rock ; finally, there is no means of reaching the cove by
Worbarrow Klnob, as the sea dashes up against the cliffs for some
distance east.

The Portland Sands are shown at Encombe or West Hill, and
again at Emmet's Hill and St. Aldhelm's Head. The thickness of
the sands is from 150 to 180 feet, but there is no definite
boundary for them with the overlying and underlying strata.

Swyre Head, one of the highest points (^7 feet), consists of
Portland Sands surmounted by the cherty beds that form the base
of the Portland stone. The Portland beds generally are character-
ized by steep slopes at their outcrop, and the tract occupied by
them is mostly grass-land adapted as pasture for sheep.

The Portland Stone-beds comprise, in descending order : —
Fine-grained and shelly limestones 12 to 18 feet.

Oolitic limestones (including beds of

freestone) ... ... ... 25 „ 30 „

Cherty Beds ... ... ... ... 60 „ 75 „

The uppermost beds comprise a fine-grained limestone known
as the Shrimp-bed (which is seen at Windspit quarry, south of
Worth), and an Oyster-bed, with Pema Bouchardi (well shown at
Tilly Whim). Casts of Trigonia occur in some places in the
upper, beds, as well as Pecten lamellosus.

The freestone occurs sometimes in two layers separated by
poorer stone, and varies from six to ten feet in' thickness. Trigonia
gibbosa occurs in these beds. Inland the freestone has been
worked at the London Doors Quarry near Encombe House, where
the beds are much shattered.

Below the freestone group comes a great thickness of sandy
and cherty limestones, which yield large specimens of Ammonites
giganteus. Examples of this fossil three feet or more in diameter
are sometimes obtained in Portland, where they are known to the
quarrymen as " Conger Eels."

The Portland Stone-beds may be studied at Tilly Whim and

72

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE,

in quarries that have been opened along the coast westward to
St. Aldhelm's Head. Among these are the Dancing Ledge quarry,
so named on account of a large platform of cherty limestone, over
which the breakers dash. There are also the Headbury, Seacombe,
and Windspit quarries.

In some localities remains of PlesiosauruSy Pliosaurus, and
Chelone planiceps have been obtained from the Portland Stone ;
also the fishes Lepidotus and Pycnodus. The famous Tisbury
Star-coral Isasircea oblonga has been obtained from cherty rock
at Gad Cliff, but it is far from abundant in this locality.

Plants (Araucarites) have been occasionally found in the
Portland Beds.

The Purbeck Beds at Durlston Bay and Swanage have been
subdivided as follows by Edward Forbes and H. W. Bristow : —

^ Upper Cypris Clays
and Shales.

Upper

Purbeck Beds.<

60 feet.

Unio Beds.

Middle

Purbeck Beds.(

163 feet.

Upper Broken Shell
^ Limestone.

/Chief "Beef "Beds.

Corbula Beds.

Scallop Beds.
Intermarine Beds.

Cinder Bed.

Cherty and Marly
Freshwater Beds.

\

Clays with bands of shell-
limestone (Purbeck Mar-
ble).

Clays with bands of lime-
stone; remains of Croco-
dile, Turtle, Freshwater
shells.

Soft Burr Stone, made up of
comminuted shells.

Dark Shales with fibrous

carbonate of lime (Beef)

and beds of limestone.
Bands of limestone, shale,

and marl.
White Roach Limestones.
Upper Building Stones, with

Turtle, Fish-remains, etc.
Hard earthy bed full of

Ostrea distorta.
Lower Building Stones.
Limestone, with irregular

nodules of black chert or

flints.
Limestones and Marls.
Black clay band.
Limestones and Marls.
Dirt Bed with Mammals.

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE.

73

Lower

PuRBECK Beds.<

162 feet.

Marly Freshwater \

Beds. I Hard and soft Marls and

Soft and Hard Cockle j marly limestones.

Beds.
Cypris Freestone.

Broken Bands.

Soft Cap.
Hard Cap.

!

Soft shales and impure lime-
stone.

Bituminous and sandy lime-
stone.

Brown and botryoidal lime-
stones.

The total thickness of the Purbeck Beds at Swanage is thus
estimated at about 385 feet. Westward the thickness is con-
siderably less, and the beds vary much in character, for the
lower strata, so soft in Durlston Bay, furnish hard building-stone
near Upwey, north of Weymouth.

The Lower Purbeck Beds are of least interest near Swanage.
They yield numerous Ostracoda (Cyprides), and are especially
characterized by the form known as Cypris Purbeckensis. They
contain masses of gypsum, which were formerly collected for trade
purposes. A remarkable feature in the lower Purbeck Beds is
the band of Broken Beds, met with in different places along the
coast in about the same position as regards the series of strata*
They have been described by Mr. Bristow as " Thin slaty beds
of bituminous,- sandy limestone much broken and squeezed
together, with a few broken fragments of chert." The appearances
are probably due to meteoric agencies, leading to dissolution and
shattering of portions of the beds.

The Middle Purbeck Beds furnish many interesting fossils, but
those of the highest interest have come from the Dirt Bed at their
base. At least twelve genera and twenty-two species of Mammals
have been obtained. Although of small, even diminutive size, they
have been given long and uncouth names, such as Spalacotherium^
Triconodoriy and Plagiaulax, They are Marsupial animals, insecti-
vorous and herbivorous. They are by no means abundant, and
long and patient search unfortunately often goes unrewarded.

The earliest specimens were obtained in 1854 by Messrs.
W. R. Brodie and Charles Wilcox, and two years later Mr. S. H.
Beckles obtained a number of additional forms. These have been
described by Sir Richard Owen and Dr. H. Falconer. Such
remains have been very exceptionally preserved in our strata.

74 THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE.

The earliest known Mammals are found in the Rhaetic Beds, others

occur in the Stonesfield Slate, and none again until we reach the

«

Purbeck Beds. No traces whatever of birds have been found,
hence it is to be hoped that the discovery of some remains of these
animals may reward the zeal of those who work at the Swanage
strata.

The Dirt Bed is a layer, about one foot thick, of black and brown
carbonaceous shale, that lies on top of the lower Purbeck Marls,
and appears to fill inequalities in the bed below. Mr. Bristow
has recorded from it Cyprides, also Valvata, Paludtna, Rtssoa, Physa
Bristoviif Limncea, Planorbis, and some reptilian remains.

This bed must not be confused with the great Dirt Bed of
Portland, that occurs just above the Cap Beds, near the base of
the Lower Purbeck Beds, and yields remains of Cycads and
Coniferous trees. These plant-remains have not been traced in
position far eastward of Lulworth.

The bed with *' flints," which comes just below the mass of the
middle Purbeck Stone-beds has yielded at Lulworth remains of a
freshwater Sponge. This has been named by Mr. J. T. Young
Spongilla Purbeckensis,

Among the fossils from the Purbeck Beds the Saurian remains
are important. The Dinosaurs include Iguanodon and Nuthetes ;
then we have the " Swanage Crocodile," which has the formidable
name of Goniopholis crasstdens, and the dwarf Crocodiles known as
Nannosuchus and Theriosuchus. Sir Richard Owen estimates the
average length of a mature Theriosuchus at eighteen inches.
Turtles, very fine and large, have been obtained mostly from the
quarrymen as they occur in the stone-beds : they include Treto-
sternum, Pleurostemum conctnnum, P, Bullocki, and Chelone obovata,
some fine specimens of which are preserved in the museum at
Corfe Castle. The fishes include Asteracanthus verrucosus,
HyboduSy Lepidotus, and Pholtdophorus, and they are mostly found
in the stone-beds worked at the quarries. The name " fishes'
eyes " is given by quarrymen to the small black spherical teeth of
Lepidotus,

Of Crustacea, the Isopod Archceoniscus occurs, but not in such
abundance as it does in the Vale of Wardour. Other forms, the
Ostracoda, occur in profusion in some beds : of these, Cypridea
granulosa and C. punctata characterize the middle and upper
Purbeck beds respectively.

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE. 75

Insects are represented very fully by remains of Coleoptera,
Orthoptera, Diptera, Neuroptera, and Hemiptera. To the various
remains very numerous names have been applied by Professor
Westwood. The MoUusca include freshwater forms such as
Limncea^ Menalia^ Paludina elongatay P, carinifera^ Physa
Bristovity Planorbts, Corbula alata^ Cyrena^ Cyclas, and Unto;
and marine forms such as Avtcula, Cardtum, Modtola, Mytt'lus,
Ostrea dtstoria, Pecten, and (in the vale of Wardour) also
Trigoma,

These MoUusca belong to living genera, and taken by them-
selves they give the Purbeck Beds a recent aspect. The Echinoderm
Hemicidan's Purbeckensts was found in a layer associated with the
Cinder Bed.

The Cinder Bed, so named on account of its rough cindery
appearance, is such a well-marked layer that it is very useful as a
guide to fix the position of the strata where they are disturbed.
It attains a thickness of eight or nine feet, and is almost entirely made
up of the small oyster Ostrea distorta^ although it is not easy to
procure any fine examples of this shell.

The Swanage Stone-beds are well shown on the coast, where
they have been quarried in places. The Swanage stone is worked,
chiefly by means of shafts, on the hill extending from the south
of the town to near Langton Matravers. The beds are known as
veins ; thus, in the upper series, we have the Laning, Rag Beds,
Freestone, and Downs Veins ; and in the lower, beneath the Cinder
Bed, the Cap and Feather and the New Vein. There are nearly
a hundred stone-mines in the Swanage district.

A building-stone, obtained at the base of the Upper Purbeck
Beds, was used in erecting the old tower of Swanage Church.
This is a compact sandy limestone, made up originally to a large
extent of comminuted shells, but the shelly matter has mostly
been dissolved out, leaving cavities. It is called the Bun-
stone.

The Purbeck Marble naturally attracts attention. Good speci-
mens may readily be procured near Peverel Point, and it is
occasionally quarried inland, as at Easton, near Langton Ma-
travers, at West Orchard, and Woody Hyde, south of Corfe
Castle. Although so extensively quarried in old times along its
outcrop, between Swanage and Worbarrow Bay, the quarries were
practically abandoned at the beginning of this century, probably

76 THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE.

much earlier, the introduction of other kinds of marble having*
ruined the local trade. The solid rock is grey, being coloured
by carbonate of iron, and this is often rusted on the outside.
The interior of the Paludina shells which form the mass of
the rock is often filled with green matter. The f/«/b-bed also
is usually much tinged with green colouring-matter.

The Purbeck Beds form rather a bare district, the fields being
divided by stone walls, varied only by an occasional hedgerow,
and having but few trees. The area occupied by the Lower
Purbeck Beds is that chiefly devoted to arable cultivation.

The Wealden Beds do not yield many fossils, but Cyrena,
Paludina elongata^ and Unto have been recorded. Bones of
Iguanodon have also been obtained, as well as masses of lignite.
The beds form an undulating tract with long ridges. The higher
portion of the series above the sands and red clays consists of
shales with Cyprides^ beds which no doubt occupy the position
of the Weald Clay of Kent and Sussex. The total thickness of
the beds has been estimated at i,8oo feet.

The Wealden Vale is for the most part a cultivated and well-
timbered tract, divided by hedgerows, and with only occasional
stone fences.

The Lower Greensand comprises a series of beds, considered
to be about two hundred feet thick. The lowermost portion, con-
sisting of a gritty band (Perna Bed), and of red and blue clays,
is regarded as on the horizon of the Atherfield Clay of the Isle
of Wight. It contains remains of the lobster Meyeria or Astacus
VectenstSj together with Exogvra smuata, Area Rauliniy Cardium
subhillanum, etc.

Higher still we find a marine-bed with Ammonites Deshayesiij
Cardium f Ostrea, and Mytilus at the base of a thick mass of
laminated sands and clays. At one time these beds were
separated from the Lower Greensand under the name of the
Punfield Beds, but it is now known that in this district they are
a portion of the Lower Greensand, whereas the so-called Punfield
Beds of the Isle of Wight belong to the Wealden series. The
highest beds of the Lower Greensand consist of grey clays and
ferruginous sandy beds, yielding Exogyra sinuata, and Panopea
neocomiensis.

The Gault appears near Punfield Cove as a dark bluish-green
sandy clay. It is seen on the foreshore, but few fossils have

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE. 77

been recorded from it. Its thickness is about one hundred and
ten feet.

The Upper Greensand is about fifty feet thick, and is more
attractive to the collector than the Gault. Its grey and green
sands and nodular stone-beds yield Pecten asper^ P, orbicularis,
P, quadricostatus, P, quinquecostatuSy Exogyra conical Terebratella
pedita, Siphonia tulipa, and Vermicularia concava ; and in the lower
clayey beds there have been found Panopea plicata, Cucullcea
glabra, etc.

The fossils are many of them fragile. We miss the develop-
ment of chert-beds which occur in the upper part of the series
in the Isle of Wight, and further westward in Dorset and Devon.

Above the Upper Greensand we come to the chalk, dipping
northward at an angle of 60°, and soon becoming almost vertical
on the northern side of Swanage Bay. The lowest bed, often
designated the Chloritic Marl, is here a bluish-grey marly bed
with green grains of glauconite (hydrous silicate of iron, potash,
and alumina), together with quartz grains and phosphatic nodules.
This is but four feet thick, and has not proved to be rich in fossils,
as it is in some places near Chard, and again on the coast near
White Nore,on the borders of Ringstead Bay. It contains fish-
remains (JDtodus), also Nautilus , Ammonites varians, Scaphites,
Terebratula semiglobosa, T. biplicata, and Rhynchonella Mantelliana.
Higher up we come upon beds of evenly bedded bluish-white
marly chalk, known as Chalk Marl and Grey Chalk, one hundred
and thirty to one hundred and forty feet thick. These beds are
extensively worked at Knowl Hill, west of Corfe Castle, for the
manufacture of Portland Cement. Among the fossils Nautilus,
Ammonites navicularis, Ostrea vesicularis, Plicatula, and Discoidea
subuculus have been found. Remains of sponges {Brachiolites)
have also been recorded. Higher still we find hard bedded
white chalk, about one hundred and ten feet thick, grouped as
Middle Chalk, and containing near the base a band known as the
Melbourn Rock. Above this division there is a layer known
as the Chalk Rock (about four inches thick) which contains hard
green-coated nodules.

• Then comes the mass of the chalk with flints, although the
uppermost chalk contains few flints. It has yielded Belemnitella,
Terebratula, etc., but fossils are far from abundant.

Much of the chalk is exceedingly hard. It has been opened

78 THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE,

up in the railway cutting near Corfe Castle, and in that neig-li-
bourhood has been quarried for road-metal. On the coast one
needs a boat for the proper examination of the chalk cliffs.

The physical features, with the detached rocks and inclined
strata, naturally recall the Needles and Culver CliflF in the Isle of
Wight, and suggest the connection of the two areas in compara-
tively recent geological times. Notable changes have taken place
within the memory of man, for it is recorded that about one
hundred and twenty years ago a man could creep along a narrow
path from the mainland to Old Harry.

Passing on to the Eocene strata, we find the lower beds so
masked that our attention cannot well be concentrated upon them.
The Reading Beds consist of brown conglomerate and red and
mottled plastic clay, together with white and yellow sands, and
these are overlaid by the London Clay, ferruginous sandy clay
with nodular concretions of ironstone. The beds dip northwards
as before. Then we come upon the yellow and red sands of the
Bagshot Beds and the pipe-clays, together grouped as the Alum
Bay Beds, and upwards of two hundred feet thick. These clay
beds have yielded a number of fossil plants, including remains of
fig-trees and fig-sycamores, Aralia^ ferns, etc.

A richer series is found near Bournemouth, where higher beds,
known as the Bournemouth Freshwater Beds, are exposed in the
cliffs. These are buff, white, and pale grey sands, grits, and clays,
very irregularly accumulated. The plants include remains of
ferns. Sequoia^ Eucalyptus^ Araucaria, Alnus, Populus, etc.

The bright and variegated Bagshot sands were exposed in
several cuttings on the railway between Wareham and Corfe
Castle, and in character they present some resemblances to the
variegated Wealden strata. Together with the white and other
clays these Bagshot Beds are probably due to the denudation of
granitic rocks, and they present many features in common with
the Tertiary strata at Bovey Tracey in Devonshire, to which beds
a similar origin may be attributed.

The clays are white, and sometimes mottled red and white ;
others are dark grey. They are dug extensively near Wareham,
and have been used in the manufacture of china, encaustic tiles,
earthenware, and in the production of alum. At Branksea the
clay has beeil worked beneath the sea-level. At other places it
is mined as well as dug.

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE. 79

At Matcham the potter's clay is eight feet thick, and has been
worked beneath thirty feet of yellow and variegated clay, and an
equal thickness of white sand overlying. The potter's clay often
contains leaves, and beneath it a bed of lignite has been proved.
At Nordon a bed of lignite seven or eight feet thick has been
used as fuel by cottagers.

The Bagshot Beds are probably brought nearer to the chalk
at this spot, adjacent to Corfe Castle, by the fault that is shown
in the cliffs of Handfast Point. The remarkable conical hill of
Creech Barrow rises above the chalk ridge to a height of upwards
of six hundred feet, and is formed of the Bagshot Beds.

We have now 'examined the principal strata that form the
country around Swanage, and may consider briefly their method
of formation.

The Kimmeridge Clay is a marine mud, accumulated too far from
land to be affected by coarse detrital material. The Portland
Sands show that shallow conditions succeeded, land rising in the
west, so that sands gradually replaced the clays. The Portland
Stone is made up of calcareous mud or fine calcareous sand formed
of rolled fragments of organic remains, and containing some
radiate oolitic grains, and it was a comparatively shallow water
marine deposit.

The Purbeck Beds mark changing conditions; freshwater
limestones, botryoidal and tufaceous in character, like beds of
travertine, are succeeded in places by evidences of land vegetation
in the now silicified remains of Cycads and Conifers. The beds
indicate that after the freshwater and terrestrial conditions, which
may have been marked by a lake or series of lagoons, a sudden
irruption of the sea in Middle Purbeck times allowed the incursion
of marine forms like the Pecletiy Avicula, and Hemicidaris, These
were succeeded by a gradual change from brackish to freshwater
conditions in Upper Purbeck times, when the Unto, Physa,
Valvata, Paludinay and Planorbis flourished.

The freshwater Purbeck Beds were succeeded gradually by
the great accumulations of Wealden strata formed by river agency,
but whether distributed over the bottom of a huge lake, or as
a delta deposit, is a somewhat debatable subject.

Following these freshwater beds we have evidence of consider-
able changes in the succeeding strata, accompanied by evidences
of unconformable overlap as we pass westwards. The Lower

So THE GEOLOGY OF SWAN AGE.

Greensand presents evidence of comparatively shallow-water
marine conditions, followed by the deeper water clays of the
Gault. Then we have evidence of shallower sea conditions in
the Upper Greensand, and again of deeper sea accumulations in
the chalk. A considerable break is now evidenced. The succeed-
ing Eocene deposits tell again of marine conditions, or of marine
and estuarine conditions (Reading Beds and London Clay), which
gradually gave place to the freshwater deposits of the Lower
Bagshot Beds. Some of the organic remains in these Lower
Eocene strata indicate tropical conditions, as in the case of
the London Clay, but the plant-remains of the Lower Bagshot
Beds of Studland Bay suggest cooler conditions, according
to Mr. Starkie Gardner, than prevailed immediately before and
afterwards.

After the deposition of the Bagshot Beds and of certain
succeeding Lower Tertiary strata, met with along the Hampshire
coast and in the Isle of Wight, we have no further records until
comparatively recent geological times. The Purbeck area was
a plain whose older strata were buried beneath a thick mass of
chalk, and overl3ring Eocene strata. Other forces came now into
work, and the beds became folded into the anticlinal, which extends
westwards to Weymouth and eastwards to the Isle of Wight.
Faults and ruptures attended the movement of elevation. Whether
the ground was elevated in mass above the sea-level, or whether
the beds were upheaved slowly and partially planed down by the
sea during the process, it is difficult to say. Of this there is no
doubt, that the present features are largely due to the modifying
influences of rain, streams, and frost. The Corfe stream, which
flows through the Chalk ridge, must have commenced its course
when the Chalk extended further south.

Since Pliocene times the area has been subject to waste,
chiefly by meteoric agencies. So that there has been plenty of
time for the formation of the deep hollows and valleys of Encombe
and the Golden Bowl, of Renscombe and Seacombe, of the vale
that extends from Worbarrow Bay to Swanage Bay, and of the
ravines hollowed in the sandy tracts near Studland.

The Agglestone, or Devil's Night Cap, near Studland, is an
isolated weathered remnant of Lower Bagshot Sands, which, like
some of the rocks near Tunbridge Wells, remains from the fact
of its being locally hardened, in the case of the Agglestone by

THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE. 8i

ferruginous cement. A smaller rock known as the Puckstone
occurs on a neighbouring hill.

Here and there we find small areas of gravel that remain
as relics of denudation, in the area between Corfe Castle and
Wareham. South-east of Encombe House a rubble of Portland
and Purbeck Beds has been worked for gravel, and remains of
the elephant (Mammoth) and deer have been recorded from the
superficial accumulations in this neighbourhood.

No Palaeolithic implements have been found, to indicate the
presence of man in these older drifts ; but at Bucknowle, south-
west of Corfe Castle, more recent accumulations with pottery and
human remains have been observed.

At the Kimmeridge Coal-works, and near Smedmore, small
discs known as coal money have at various times been found in
the surface soil or in artificial mounds. It is considered that most
of these may be simply the refuse from which rings or armlets
have been turned in a lathe, or they may be the bases of vases
or bowls.

The steep slopes of the Portland Beds are usually marked by
the tiny slips which form irregular and miniature terraces, often
made use of as sheep tracks. There are, however, some bolder
ridges or terraces which are the results of ancient systems of
cultivation. They may be seen near Langton and Worth, and
are known as Linchets or Lynches. It has been pointed out that
such ridges would be rapidly formed when, in early times (on
the arable Common-field system), nothing was more usual than
for the owner or occupier to possess and cultivate several distinct
strips or breadths of land separated from one another by the lands
of others. When a hill-side formed part of the open field, the
strips were almost always made to run more or less horizontally
along it. Each upper cultivator would naturally have taken care
not to allow the soil of his strip to descend to fertilize his neigh-
bour's below, and by forming boundary furrows with a slight
ridge of soil between he would pave the way for a bank of earth
which in the course of years increases into a linchet several feet
in height.*

The Blown Sand forms picturesque hillocks bordering the
shore of Studland Bay. Much of it is formed by the waste of
the Bagshot Sands.

*lSee F. Seebohm, "The English Village Community," 1883, p. 5.

6

S2 THE GEOLOGY OF SWANAGE.

In certain places Musical Sand has been observed. It occurs
on sea-coasts and inland, in situations where it has been sorted
by the action of sea or wind, or by both agents. The grains, as
Mr. Cams-Wilson remarks,* must be rounded, polished, and free
from fine fragments and earthy matter, and of a certain uniformity
m size. Such sand is said to be musical when walked upon, or
agitated with the hand. In this way sand in some places in
Studland Bay was found to emit weak but distinct notes when
agitated on the beach. The sand is composed chiefly of quartz
grains, and occurred in a narrow zone varying from twelve to
fifteen yards between the blown sand and the high-water mark.

* Paper read before Bournemouth Society of Natural Science, 1888
reprinted 8vo., Poole.

BOTANY.

|HERE are many who, when taking a holiday, like to
combine instruction with pleasure ; for these, and those
pent up in cities for the greater part of the year, who
will be glad to make the acquaintance of the many in-
teresting botanical specimens to be found in the neighbourhood
of Swanage, we append lists for which we are partly indebted to
Mr. J. C. Mansel-Pleydell, Mr. Eustace Bankes and Mr. Herbert
Goss. As our work is not intended for a scientific treatise, but for
the amateur botanist, we have contented ourselves with a list of
the more readily found plants ; at the same time, such a catalogue
speaks volumes for the temperate and generous climate of Swanage.

A LIST OF SHRUBS AND TREES
THAT GROW LUXURIOUSLY, NEAR THE SEA, IN SWANAGE.

Latin Name,
Araucaria imbricata

M
ff

Cupressus macrocarpa

„ Crippsii
Pinus Austriaca ...
Taxus baccata
aurea
fastigiata ...

«

Wellingtonia gigantea
Rhododendron
Gaultheria Shallon
Aralia Sieboldii ...
Berberis Darwinii...

„ aquifolium
Buddlea globosa ...
Cerasus lauro-Cerasus

„ Lusitanica
Daphne laureola . . .
Escallonia macrantha
Euonymus fimbriatus

English Name,
Monkeys' puzzle.

J Cypress.

Austrian Pine.

English Yew.
... Golden „
... Irish „

Mammoth Tree.

Aralia.

Darwin's Berbery.
Holly-leaved Berbery.
Buddlea.
Common Laurel.
Portugal „
Spurge „
Escallonia.
Spindle Tree.

«4

BOTANY.

ft

LaHn Name,
Aucubas, male and female

Launis nobilis

Garrya elliptica

Ilex aquifolium

Ligustrmn angustifolium ...
Phillyrea angustif olia

Quercus ilex

Spartium scoparium
Vefonica ... ... •••

Viburnum tinus

Acer pseudo-platanus
Crataegus coccinea plena ...
multiplex F. P.
runicea F. P. ...
Oxyacantha rosea

Cytisus laburnum

Deutzia scabra

Fagus sylvatica

I, cuprea ... ...

Fraxinus excelsior

„ omus ...
Populus alba

„ fastigiata...
Ribes sanguineum
Sambucus nigra

„ argentea-variegata

Syringa vulgaris

Tamarix Germanica

Tilia Europaea

Ulmus campestris

Fuchsias

•••

• .a

• ••

• ••

English Name,

Aucuba.

Sweet Bay.

Garryad.

Common Holly.

Privet.

Norrow-leaved Phillyrea.

Evergreen Oak.

Yellow Broom.

Laurestine.
Sycamore.

Hawthorn.

Common Laburnum.
Deutzia.

Common Beech.
Copper „
Common Ash.
Flowering „
Poplar, Silver.

„ Lombardy.
Flowering Currant.
Elder.

Variegated Elder.
Common Lilac.
Tamarix.
Lime Tree.
English Elm.

Palms are found growing luxuriantly in Swanage ; the one that thrives best
is the Chamaerops Fortunei.

December Flowers. — We gather from an interesting paper read
by Mr. Eustace Bankes before The Dorset Natural History and
Antiquarian FteldClub, in December 1889, that the Isle of Purbeck
often abounds in wild flowers as far into the winter as the middle
of December. Mr. Bankes says : " It would probably be almost
an insult to the feelings of every one to refer to the miserable
apology for a summer to which we were treated in 1888; but
certainly no less remarkable, though decidedly more enjoyable,

BOTANY. 85

than that almost unprecedented period of continuous rain was the
exceptionally mild autumn and winter which brought the year to
a close. It is not likely that any of us need to be reminded of the
wonderful variety of plants which were still in bloom and adorned
our gardens throughout November and December; but to those
who had the chance of observing them, the profusion of wild
flowers which brightened up the fields and hedgerows during those
months was even more astonishing, and furnished a striking proof
— if proof had been wanting — of the excessive mildness of the
weather, and the almost entire absence of frost at night The
principal cause of this mildness was to be found in the continuous
succession of cyclonic disturbances which came to us from the
Atlantic Ocean, bringing with them a warm, damp atmosphere;
and its effect on vegetation was twofold; for not only did the
absence of frost allow many of the summer and autumn flowering
plants to continue to open their petals, but the high temperature
which prevailed for week after week forced on, as though in a
hothouse, many of our spring flowers, and made them come into
bloom several months before their time. This will account for
the peculiarly mixed variety of species found side by side, which,
in the ordinary course of events, are never associated together.
As an instance of this, we may mention that such summer flowers
as the red poppy, corn marigold, foxglove, and the several species
of heath were in bloom at the same time as the autumn-flowering
ivy, and such peculiarly spring plants as the lesser celandine, the
dog violet, and the primrose. Thinking that it would be of great
interest to take advantage of such an exceptional state of things in
the middle of an English winter, the Rev. Lester Lester, of Lang-
ton Matravers, the Rev. Owen L. Mansel, of Church Knowle, and
the writer of this paper agreed to make separate lists of all the
strictly wild flowers which they happened to notice within the
limits of the Isle of Purbeck during the first fortnight of December,
and the following catalogue embodies the result of our observa-
tions. It must be here stated that our researches were not carried
on at all systematically, or no doubt many more might have been
added ; but we simply noted down those that we happened to
meet with; and a large proportion of the species for which I
am responsible were gathered or noticed while I was engaged in
shooting. However, in spite of this our list has assumed very
respectable proportions; and when it is found that it comprises

86 BOTANY,

one hundred and five different species of wild flowers (exclusive of
all grasses, ferns, and kindred orders), it will probably be admitted
that such a record is almost unprecented for the time of year.
There is little doubt but that a few additional names might have
been inserted ; but unfortunately, owing to an insufficient know-
edge of botany — to which I most particularly must plead guilty —
and ack of spare time to work them out, a few obscure species,
which could not be satisfactorily determined, had to be omitted.
In amalgamating our three separate lists, it was of course found
that a fair proportion were common to all the three ; but of those
species which were only noticed by one observer, Mr. Lester
appears to have recorded seven, Mr. Owen Mansel five, and I am
responsible for exactly forty." The paper concluded by enumera-
ting the wild flowers noticed or gathered, and we append the list,
omitting the Latin names, however, and giving only their more
common nomenclature. The following are the names of the wild
flowers noticed or gathered : — Lesser celandine, creeping butter-
cup, meadow crowfoot, bulbous buttercup, common red poppy,
common watercress, common hedge mustard, wild mustard, shep>-
herd's purse, dog violet, common milkwort, sea campion, evening
campion, red campion, three-nerved sandwort, broad-leaved
mouse-ear chickweed, viscid mouse-ear chickweed, lesser stitch-
wort, little flax, dwarf mallow, herb Robert, dove's foot, brance's-
bill, jagged brance's-bill, long-stalked brance's-bill, common furze,
dwarf furze, white clover, purple clover, hop clover, lesser yellow
clover, lesser yellow trefoil, common vetch or sainfoin, bush vetch,
common avens, wood strawberry and one ripe fruit, creeping
cinquefoil, common tormentil, common bramble or blackberry,
rough chervil, wild carrot, common beaked parsley, wild beaked
parsley, upright hedge parsley, common ivy, cleavers, field madder,
devil's bit scabious, common erigeron, golden rod, daisy, ox-eye
daisy, com marigold, sea scentless mayweed, stinking camomile,
yarrow, common groundsel, marsh ragwort, common ragwort, musk
thistle, wetted thistle, slender thistle, spear thistle, black knap-
weed, bristly ox-tongue, common hawkbit, autumnal hawkbit,
glabrous hypochoere, long-rooted cat's ear, common sow-thistle,
prickly sowthistle, common dandelion, smooth hawk's beard,
mouse-ear hawkweed, common nipplewort, sheep's bit, nettle-
leaved campanula, cross-leaved heath, ciliated heath, Scotch
heath, common ling, common primrose, common centaury, field

BOTANY.

87

mouse-ear, small bugloss, common borage, black nightshade, ivy-
leaved toadflax, purple foxglove, thyme-leaved speedwell, ger-
mander speedwell, ivy-leaved speedwell, procumbent speedwell,
Buxbaum's speedwell, wild basil, selfheal, hedge woundwort, com
woundwort, purple dead nettle, white dead nettle, woodsage, white
goosefoot, petty spurge, perennial dog's mercury, scarlet pimpernel.

LIST OF PLANTS

FOUND WITHIN A RADIUS OF SIX MILES FROM SWANAGE,
By J. C. Mansel-Pleydell, M.A.,|F.L.S.

( The arrangement and nomenclature is that adopted in the *' London Cata-
logue of British Plants" Sth Edition,)

Ranunculace^.

Clematis —

Vitalba, Linn.
Thalictrum —

Flavum, Linn.
Anemone —

Nemorosa, Linn.
Adonis —

Autumnalis, Linn.
Ranunculus —

Baudotii, Godr.
b. Confusus, Godr.

Tripartitus, DC,

Lenormandi, F. Schultz.

Hederaceus, Linn.

Sceleratus, Linn.

Flammula, Linn.

Lingua, Linn.

Auricomus, Linn.

Acris, Linn.

Repens, Linn.

Bulbosus, Linn.

Sardous, Crantz.

Parviflorus, Linn.

Arvensis, Linn.

Ficaria, Linn.
Caltha —

Palustris, Linn.
Aquilegia —

Vulgaris, Linn.
Delphinium —

Ajacis^ Reichb.

Nymph^ace^.
Nuphar —

Luteum, Sm.

PAPAVERACEiE.

Papaver —

Rhceas, Linn.

Dubium, Linn.
b. Lecoqii (Lamot.)

Argemone, Linn.

Hybridum, Linn.
Glaucium —

Flavum, Crantz.

CheUdonium —
Majus, Linn.

FUMARIACEiE.

Fumaria —

Confusa, Jord.
Officinalis, Linn.

CRUCIFERiE.

Nasturtium —

Officinale, R. Br.
b. Siifolium (Reichb.), Koch.
Barbarea —

Vulgaris, R. Br.

Praecox, R. Br.
Arabis —

Sagittata, DC.
Cardamine —

Pratensis, Linn.

Hirsuta, Linn.

F exuosa. With.

88

BOTANY.

ErophUa (Drabay^

Vulgaris, DC.
Cochlearia —

Officinalis^ Linn.

Danica, Linn.

Anglica, Linn.
Sisymbrium —

Thaliana, Hook.

Officinale, Scop.

Alliaria, Scop.
Bfossica —

Oleracea, Linn.

Napus^ Linn. ?

Rapa, Linn. ?

Nigra, Koch.

Sinapis, Visiani.

Alba, Boiss.
Capsella —

Bursa-pastoris, Moench.
Senebiera —

Didyma, Pers.

Coronopus, Poir.
Lepidium —

Campestre, R. Br.

Smithii, Hook.
Crambe —

Maritima, Linn.
CaMle —

Maritima, Scop.

RESEDACEiE.

Reseda —

Lutea, Linn
Luteola, Linn.

ClSTINE^.

Helianthemum —

Chamaecistus, Mill.

VlOLARIKffi.

Viola —

Odorata, Linn

b. Alba, Besser.
Hirta, Linn.
Sylvatica, Fr.
Reichenbachiana, Bor.
Lactea, Sm.
Tricolor, Linn.
Arvensis,»Murr.

POI-YGALE^

Polygala —

Vulgaris, Linn.
Serpyllacea, Weihe,
Calcarea, F. Schultz.

Caryophylle^:.
StUne —

Cucubalus, WibeL

Maritima, With.

Gallica, Linn.
a. Anglica, Linn.

Nutans, Linn.
Lychnis —

Alba, Mill.

Diuma, Sibth.

Flos-cuculi, Linn.

Githago, Lam.
Cerastium —

Quatemellum, Fenzl.

Tetrandrum, Curt

Semidecandrum, Linn.

Glomeratum, Thuill

Triviale, Link.
Stellaria —

Aquatica, Scop

Media, Cyr.

Holostea, Linn.

Graminea, Linn.

Uliginosa, Murr.
Arenaria —

Trinervia, Linn.

Serpyllifolia, Linn.
c. Leptoclados, Guss.

Peploides, Linn.
Sagina —

Maritima, Don.

Apetala, Linn

Ciliata, Fr.

Procumbens, Linn.

Subulata, Presl.

Nodosa, E. Mey.
Spergula —

Arvensis, Linn,
a. Vulgaris, Boenn.
Lepigonum —

Rubrum, Fr.

Salinunl, Fr.

BOTANY.

89

Lxpigonum (continued) —

b. Medium, Fr.

c. Neglectum, Kindb.
Marginatum, Koch.

PORTULACE-ffi:.

Montia fontana, Linn.

TAMARISCLIVEiE.

Tamarix —

Gallica, Linn.

HVPERICINE-fi.

Hypericum —

Androsaemum, Linn.
Perforatum, Linn.
Quadrangulum, Linn.
Quadratum, Stokes.
Humifusum, Linn.
Pulchrum, Linn.
Hirsutum, Linn.
Montanum, Linn.
Elodes, Huds.

Malvace-*:.
Malva —

Moschata, Linn.

Sylvestris, Linn.

Rotundifolia, Linn.

TiLIACEiE.

Tilia —

Vulgaris^ Hayne.
Cordata, Mill.

LiNEiE.

Radiola —

Linoides, Gmel.
Linum —

Catharticum, Linn.

Angustifolium, Huds.

GERANIACEiE.

Geranium —

MoUe, Linn.

Pusillum, Burm.

Dissectum, Linn.

Columbinum, Linn.

Lucidum, Linn.

Robertianum, Linn,
c. Purpureum, auct. angl.
Erodium —

Cicutarium, L'H^rit.

Moschatum, L'H6rit.

Maritimum, L'H6rit.

Oxalis —

Acetosella, Linn.

Ilicine^.
Ilex—

Aquifolium, Linn.

CELASTRINEiE.

Euonymus —

Europaeus, Linn.

RHAMNEiE.

Rhamnus —

Catharticus, Linn.
Frangula, Linn.

Sapindace^e.
Acer—

Pseudo-platanus^ Linn.

Campestre, Linn.

LEGUMINOSiE.

Genista —

Anglica, Linn.

Tinctoria, Linn.
UUx—

Europaeus, Linn.

Gallii, Planch.

Nanus, Forster.
Cytisus —

Scoparius, Link.
Ononis —

Repens, Linn.
Medicago —

Lupulina, Linn.

Denticulata, Willd.

Maculata, Sibth.
Melihtus —

Altissima, Thuill.
Trifolium —

Subterraneum, Linn.

Pratense, Linn.

Medium, Linn.

Maritimum, Huds.

Incamatum^ Linn.

Arvense, Linn.

Striatum, Linn.

Scabrum, Linn.

Glomeratum, Linn.

Suffocatum, Linn.

Repens, Linn.

Fragiferum, Linn.

90

BOTANY.

TytfoUum (continued) —

Procumbens, Linn.

Dubium, Sibth.

Filiforme, Linn.
Anthylhs—

Vulneraria, Linn
Lotus —

Corniculatus, Linn.

Pilosus, Beeke.

Hispidus, Desf.
OmUhopus —

Perpusillus, Linn.
Hippocrepis —

Comosa, Linn.
Onobrychis —

Sativa, Lam.
Vicia —

Hirsuta, Koch.

Tetrasperma, Moench.

Gracilis, Lois.

Cracca, Linn.

Sylvatica, Linn.

Sepium, Linn.

Bythinica, Linn.

Angustifolia, Roth.

a. Segetalis, Thuill.
Lathyroides, Linn.

Lathyrus —

Aphaca, Linn.
Nissolia, Linn.
Pratensis, Linn.
Sylvestris, Linn.
Macrorrhizus, Wimm.

b. Tenuifolius, Roth.

RoSACEiE.

Prunus —

Communis, Huds.

Insititia, Linn.
Spiraa —

Ulmaria, Linn.

Filipendula, Linn.
Rubus —

Idaeus, Linn.

Affinis, W. & N.

Lindleiarius, Sm.

Rhamnifolius, W. & N.

Rusticanus, Merc.

Rubus (continued) —

Leucostachys, Sm.

Salteri, Bab.
b. Calvatus, Blox.

\^llicaules, Koehl.

Maassii, Focke.

Sprengelii, Weihe.

Echinatus, Lindl.

Radula, Weihe.

Diversifolius, Lindl.

Corylifolius, Sm.
a. Sublustris, Lindl.

Deltoideus, P. J. MQll.

Caesius, Linn.
Geum —

Urbanum, Linn
Fragaria — ^

Vesca, Linn.
PotenUlla —

Fragariastrum, Ehrh.

Tormentilla, Neck.

Reptans, Linn.

Anserina, Linn.

Comarum, Nestl.
Akhemilla —

Arvensis, Lam.
Agrimonia —

Eupatoria, Linn.
Poteriutn —

Sanguisorba, Linn.

Murkatum^ Spach.

Officinale, Hook, f.

Rosa —

» Spinosissima, Linn.
Rubiginosa, Linn.
Micrantha, Sm.
Canina, Linn.

a. Lutetiana, Leman

b. Sphaerica, Gren.

c. Dumalis (Bechst.)

d. Biserrata (Merat.)

e. Urbica (Leman.)

f. Obtusifolia (Desv.)
Stylosa, Desv.

b. Systyla, Bast.
Arvensis, Huds.

c. Bibracteata, Bast

BOTANY.

91

Pyrtis —

Malus, Linn.
CratcBgus —

Oxyacantha, Linn,
a Monogyna, Jacq.

SAXIFRAGEiE.

Saxt/raga —

Tridactylites, Linn.
Chtysosplenium —

Oppositifolium, Linn.
Pamassia —

Palustris, Linn.
Ribes —

Grossularia^ Linn.

CRASSULACEiE.

Tillcea —

Muscosa, Linn.
Cotyledon —

Umbilicus, Linn.
Sedum —

Album, Linn.

Anglicum, Huds.

Acre, Linn.
Semperuivum —

Teetotum^ Linn.

DROSERACEiE.

Drosera —

Rotundifolia, Linn.
Anglica, Huds.

b. Obovata, M. & K.
Intermedia, Ha3me.

HALORAGEiE.

Myriophyllu m —

Spicatum, Linn.

Alterniflonim, D. C.
Callitriche —

Stagnalis, Scop.

Hamulata, Kuetz.

Obtusangula, Le Gall.

LYTHRARIEiE.

Lythfum —

Salicaria, Linn.
Peplis—

Portula, Linn.

Onagrarie^e.
Epilobtum —

Angustifolium, Linn.

Epilobtum (continued) —

Hirsutum, Linn

Parviflorum, Schreb.

Montanum, Linn.

Tetragonum, Linn.

Obscurum, Schreb.

Palustre, Linn.
CirccBa —

Lutetiana, Linn.

CuCURBITACEiE.

Byronia —

Dioica, Linn.

UMBELLIFERiE.

HydrocotyU —

Vulgaris, Linn.
Eryngtum —

Maritimiun, Linn.
Sanicula —

Europaea, Linn.
Conium —

Maculatum, Linn.
Smymium —

Olusatrum, Linn.
Apium —

Graveolens, Linn.

Nodiflorum, Reichb.

Inundatum, Reichb.
Carum —

Peiroselinum^ Benth.

Segetum, Benth.
Sison —

Amomum, Linn.
A£gopodium —

Podagraria, Linn.
Pimpinella —

Saxifraga, Linn.
Conopodium —

Denudatum, Koch.
Chcerophyllum —

Temulum, Linn.
Scandix —

Pecten-Veneris, Linn,
Anthriscus —

Sylvestris, Hofifm.

Vulgaris, Pers.
Fosniculum —

Officinale, All

93

BOTANY.

Crithmum —

Maritimum, Linn.
(Enant?i€ —

Fistulosa, Linn.

Pimpinelloides, Linn.

Lachenalii, Gmel.

Crocata, Linn.

Fluviatilis, Coleman.
jEthusa —

Cynapium, Linn.
Silaus —

PratensiSf Bess.
Angelica —

Sylvestris, Linn.
Peucedanum —

Sativum, Benth.
HeracUum —

Sphondylium, Linn.
Daucus —

Carota, Linn.

Gummifer, Lam.
Caucalis —

Daucoides, Linn.

Anthriscus, Huds.

Arvensis, Huds.

Nodosa, Scop.

ARALIACEiE.

Hedera —

Helix, Linn.

CORNACEiE.

Comus —

Sanguinea, Linn.

Caprifoliacel£.
Adoxa —

Moschatellina, Linn.
Sambucus —

Nigra, Linn.

Ebulus, Linn.
Viburnum —

Opulus, Linn.

Lantana, Linn.
Lonicera —

Periclymenum, Linn.

RUBIACE^.

Rubia —

Peregrina, Linn.

Galium —

Cruciata, Scop.
Verum, Linn.
MoUugo, Linn.

a. Elatum, Thuill.
Saxatile, Linn.
Palustre, Linn.
Uliginosum, Linn.
Aparine, Linn.
Tricome, With.

Asperula —

Odorata, Linn.

Cynanchica, Linn.
Sherardia —

Arvensis, Linn.

VALERIANEiE.

Valeriana —

Officinalis, Linn.

b. Sambucifolia, auct angl.
Valerianella —

Olitoria, Moench.
Auricula, DC.
Dentata, Poll.

DiPSACRff:.

Di^sacus —

Sylvestris, Linn.
Scabiosa —

Sucdsa, Linn.
Columbaria, Linn.
Arvensis, Linn.

COMPOSITiE.

Eupaiorium —

Cannabinum, Linn.
Solidago —

Virgaurea, Linn.
Bellis—

Perennis, Linn.
Aster—

Tripolium, Linn.
Erigeron —

Acre, Linn.
FUago —

Germanica, Linn.

Spathulata, Presl.

Minima, Fr.

BOTANY.

93

Gnaphahum —

Uliginosum, Linn.
Inula^-

Helenium, Linn.

Conyza, DC.

Crithmoides, Linn.
Pulicaria —

Dysenterica, Gaertn.
Achillea —

Millefolium, Linn.

Ptarmica, Linn.
Anthemis —

Cotula, Linn.

Arvensis, Linn.

Nobilis, Linn.
Chrysanthemum —

Segetum, Linn.

Leucanthemum, Linn
Matricaria —

Inodora, Linn,
b. Salina, Bab.

Chamomilla, Linn.
Tanacetum —

Vulgare, Linn.
Artemisia —

Absinthium, Linn.

Vulgaris, Linn.

Maritima, Linn.
Tussilago —

Farfara, Linn.
Petasites —

Vulgaris, Desf.
Senecio —

Vulgaris, Linn.

Sylvaticus, Linn.

Erucifolius, Linn.

Jacobaea, Linn.

Aquaticus, Huds
Carlina —

Vulgaris, Linn.
Arctium —

Majus, Schk.

Minus, Schk.
Carduus —

Pycnocephalus, Jacq.

Nutans, Linn.

Carduus (continued) —

Crispus, Linn.
c. Acanthoides, Linn
Cnicus —

Lanceolatus, Hoffm.

Eriophorus, Hoffm.

Palustris, Hoffm.

Pratensis, Willd.

Acaulis, Hoffm.

Arvensis, Hoffm.
Onopordon —

Acanthium, Linn.
Silylfum —

Marianum^ Gaertn.
Serratula —

Tinctoria, Linn.
Centaurea —

Nigra, Linn.

b. Decipiens, Thuill.

Scabiosa, Linn.

Cyanus, Linn.
Cichorium —

Intybus, Linn.
Lapsana —

Communis, Linn.
Picris —

Hieracioides, Linn.

Echioides, Linn.
Crepis —

Virens, Linn.
Hieracium —

Pilosella, Linn.

Murorum, Linn. pt.

Vulgatum, Fr.

Tridentatum, Fr.

Umbellatum, Linn.

Boreale, Fr.
Hypochosris —

Glabra, Linn.

Radicata, Linn.
Leontodon —

Hirtus, Linn.

Hispidus, Linn.

Autumnalis, Linn.
Taraxacum —

Officinale, Web.

a. Dens Leonis, Desv.

b. Erythrospermum,'Andrz.

94

BOTANY.

Taraxacum (continued) —

c Palustre, DC.
Sonchus —

Oleraceus, Linn.

Asper, Hoffin.

Arvensis, linn.
Tragopogon —

Pratensis, Linn,
b. Minus, Mill

PorrifoliuSt Linn.

Campanulaceje.
Jasione —

Montana, Linn.
Campanula —

Trachelium, Linn.

Rotundifolia, Linn.
Specularia —

Hybrida, DC.

ERICACEiE.

Calluna —

Erica, DC.
Erica —

Ciliaris, Linn.

Tetralix, Linn.

Mackayi, Hook.

Cinerea, Linn.

PLUMBAGIN££.

StaMce —

Limonium, Linn.

a. Genuina, Syme.

b. Pyramidalis, Syme.
Auriculaefolia, Vahl.

a. Intermedia, Syme.
Armaria —

Maritima, Willd.

PRIMULACEiE.

Primula —

Vulgaris, Huds.

Veris, Linn.
LyHmachia —

Nummularia, Linn.

Nemoriun, Linn.
Glaux —

Maritima,' Linn.
Anagallis —

Arvensis, Linn.

Tenella, Linn.

Ceniunculus —

Minimus, Linn
Samolus —

Valerandi, Linn.

Oleace^
Fraxinus —

Excelsior, Linn

Ugustrum —

Vulgare, Linn.

APOCYNACEiE.

Vinca —

Major^ Linn.

GENTIANEiE.

Microcala {Cicendia) —

Filiformis, Link.
Etyfkraa —

Centaurium, Pers.

Pulchella, Fr.
Blackstania (Chlord) —

Perfoliata, Huds.
GenHana —

Pneumonanthe, Linn.

Amarella, Linn.

Campestris, Linn.
b. Praecox, Raf.
Menyanthes —

Trifoliata, Linn.

BORAGINE^

Cynoglossum —

Officinale, Linn.
Symphytum —

Officinale, Linn.
Lycopsis —

Arvensis, Linn.
MyosoHs —

Caespitosa, Schultz

Palustris, With.

Repens, D. Don.

Arvensis, Hoffin.

CoUina, Hoffin.

Versicolor, Reichb.
Utkospermum —

Officinale, Linn.

Arvense, Linn.
Echium —

Vulgare, Linn.

BOTANY.

95

CONVOLVULACEiE.

Calystegia —

Sepium/R. Br.

Soldanella, R. Br.
Convolvulus —

Arvensis, Linn.
Cuscuta —

Epithymum, Murr.

SOLANACEiE.

Solanum —

Dulcamara, Linn.

Nigrum, Linn.
Lydum —

Barbarum^ Linn.
Hyoscyamus —

Niger, Linn.

SCROPHULARINEiE.

Verbascum —

Thapsus, Linn.
Linaria —

Cymbalaria^ Mill.

Elatine, Mill.

Spuria, Mill.

Vulgaris, Mill.

Minor, Desf.
Antirrhinum —

Orontium, Linn.
Scrophularia —

Aquatica, Linn.

Nodosa, Linn.
Digitalis —

Purpurea, Linn.
Veronica —

Hederaefolia, Linn.

Polita, Fr.

Agrestis, Linn.

Persica, Poir.

Arvensis, Linn.

Serpyllifolia, Linn.

Officinalis, Linn.

Chamaedrys, Linn.

Montana, Linn.

Scutellata, Linn.

Anagallis, Linn.

Beccabunga, Linn.

Euphrasia —

Officinalis, Linn.
Bartsia —

Odontites, Huds.
b. Scrotina, Reichb.

Viscosa, Linn.
Pedicularis —

Palustris, Linn.

Sylvatica, Linn.
Melampyrum —

Pratense, Linn.
Rhinanthus —

Crista-galli, Linn.

OROBANCHACEiE.

Orobanche —
Major, Linn.
Minor, Sm.
Picridis, F. Schultz.
Amethystea, T. Smith.

Lentibularie^.

Utricularia —

Minor, Linn.

Intermedia, Hayne.
Pinguicula —

Lusitanica, Linn.

VERBENACE-fi.

Verbena —

Officinalis, Linn.

LABIATiE.

Mentha —

Viridis^ Linn.

Hirsuta, Linn.

Sativa, Linn.

Arvensis, Linn.
Lycopus —

Europaeus, Linn.
Origanum —

Vulgare, Linn.
Thymus —

Serpyllum, Fr.

Chamaedrys, Fr.
Calamintha —

Clinopodium, Benth.

Officinalis, Moench.

Arsensis, Lam.

96

BOTANY.

Salvia —

Verbenaca, Linn.
ScuteUaria —

Galericulata, Linn.

Minor, Linn.
Prunella —

Vulgaris, Linn.
Marruhium —

Vulgare, Linn.
Stachys —

Betonica, Benth.

Palustris, Linn.

Sylvatica, Linn.

Arvensis, Linn.
Galeopsis —

Ladanum, Linn.

Tetrahit, Linn.

Leonurus —

Cardiaca, Linn.

LanUum —

Amplexicaule, Linn.

Pnrpureum, Linn.
Album, Linn.
Galeobdolon, Crantz.

Ballota —

Nigra, Linn.
Teucrium —

Scorodonia, Linn.

Ajuga —

Reptans, Linn.

PLANTAGINEiE.

Plantago —

Major, Linn.

Media, Linn.

Lanceolata, Linn.

Maritima, Linn.

Coronopus, Linn.
Littorella —

Lacustris, Linn.

iLLECEBRACEiE.

Scleranthus —

Annuus, Linn.

Chenopodiace^.

Chenopodium —
Vulvaria, Linn,

Chenopodium (continued) —
Album, Linn.

a. Candicans Lam.
Hybridum, Linn.
Rubrum, Linn.
Murale, Linn.
Bonus-Henricus, Linn.

Beta—

Maritima, Linn.
Atriplex—

Littoralis, Linn.

Patula, Linn.

b. Erecta, Huds.

c Angustifolia, Sm.

Hastata, Linn.

Deltoidea, Bab.

Babingtonii, Woods.

Portulacoides, Linn.
SaUcomia —

Herbacea, Linn.

Radicans, Sm.
Suctda —

Maritima, Dum.

Fruticosa, Forsk.
SaUola —

Kali, Linn.

POLYGONACEiE.

Polygonum —

Convolvulus, Linn.
Aviculare, Linn.

a. Agrestinun, Jord.

b. Vulgatum, Syme.

c. Arenastrum (Bor.)

d. Littorale, Link.
Amphibium, Linn.
Hydropiper, Linn.
Persicaria, Linn.
Lapathifolium, Linn,
Bistorta, Linn.

Rumex —

Conglomeratus, Murr.
Sanguineus, Linn,
b. Viridis, Sibth.
Maritimus, Linn, {vide Pulteney).
Pulcher, Linn.
Obtusifolius, Linn.
Acutus, Linn.

BOTANY,

97

Rumex (continued) —
Crispus, Linn.
Hydrolapathum, Huds.
Acetosa, Linn.
Acetosella, Linn.

SANTALACEiE.

Thesium —

Linophyllum, Linn,

EUPHORBIACE^.

Euphorbia —

Helioscopia, Linn.

Platyphyllos, Linn.

Amygdaloides, Linn.

Portlandica, Linn.

Peplus, Linn.

Exigua, Linn.

Lathyris, Linn.

Paralias, Linn. {;vide Pulteney).
Mercurialis —

Perennis, Linn.

Annua, Linn.

IjRTICACEiE.

Ultnus —

Montana, Sm.

Campestris, Sm.
Humultis —

Lupulus, Linn.
Urtica —

Dioica, Linn.

Urens, Linn.
Parietaria —

OfBcinalis, Linn.

MYRICACEiE.

Myrica —

Gale, Linn.

CUPULIFER«.

Betula —

Alba, Linn.

Glutinosa, Fr.
Alnus —

Glutinosa, Linn.
Carpinus —

Betulus, Linn.
Corylus —

Avelldna, Linn.

Quercus —

Robur, Linn.
Fagus —

Sylvatica, Linn.

Salicine^.
Salix —

Repens, Linn,

Pentandra, Linn.

Alba, Linn.

Cinerea, Linn.

Aurita, Linn.

Purpurea, Linn.

Caprea, Linn.

Viminalis, Linn.

Populus —

Alba, Linn.

Tremula, Linn.

CERATOPHYLLEiE.

Ceratophyllum —

Demersum, Linn. ?

CONIFERiE.

Pinus —

Sylvestris, Linn.
Pinaster^ Ait.

ORCHIDEiE.

Malaxis —

Paludosa, Sw.
Listera —

Ovata, R. Br.
Spiranthes —

Autumnalis, Rich.
Epipactis —

Palustris, Crantz.
Orchis —

Pyramidalis, Linn.

Ustulata, Linn.

Mono, Linn.

Mascula, Linn.

Incamata, Linn.

Latifolia, Linn.

Maculata, Linn.
Ophrys —

Apifera, Huds.

Aranifera, Huds.
b. Fucifera, Sm.
Habenaria —

Conopsea, Benth.

98

BOTANY.

Habenana (continued) —
BifoUa, R. Br.
Chloroleuca, Ridley.

iRIDEiE.

Iris —

Foetidissima, Linn.

b. Citrina, Syme.

Pseudacorus, Linn.

DiOSCOREiE.

Tamus —

Commimis, Linn.

LlLIACELC.

Ruscus —

Acnleatus, Linn.
Allium —

Vineale, Linn,
a. Compactunii ThuilL

Ursinum, Linn.
Scilla—

Nutans, Sm.
Colchicum —

Autumnale, Linn.
Narthecium —

Ossifragum, Huds.

JUNCACEiE.

Juncus —

Bufonius, Linn
Squarrosus, Linn.
Gerardi, Lois.
Glaucus, Ehrh.
Diffusus, Hoppe.
Effusus, Linn.
ConglomeratuSy Linn.
Maritimus, Lam.
Supinus, Moench.

b. Kochii, S3rme.

c. Ulignosius (Roth.)
Obtusiflorus, Ehrh.
Lamprocarpus, Ehrh.
Acutiflorus, Ehrh.

Luzula —

Pilosa, Willd,
Campestris, DC
Multiflora Lej.
b. Congesta, Koch.

TVPHACEiE.

Typha—

Latifolia, Linn.

Angustifolia, Linn.
Sparganium —

Ramosum, Curtis.

Simplex, Huds,

AROIDEiE.

Arum —

Maculatum, Linn.
Italicum, Mill. '

LEMNACEiE.

Lemna —

Minor, Linn.

Alismace-<e.
Alisma —

Plantago, Linn.

Ranunculoides, Linn..

Sagittaria —

Sagittifolia, Linn.

Naiadace<e,
Triglochin —

Palustre, Linn.

Maritimum, Linn.
Potamogeton —

Polygonifolius, Pour.

Pusillus, Linn,
b. Tenuissimus, Koch,

Natans, Linn.

Pectinatus, Linn.
b. Scoparius, Walr»

Densus, Linn.
Ruppia —

Spiralis, Hartm.

Rostellata, Koch.
ZannichelUa —

Palustris, Linn.
Zostera —

Marina, Linn.

Nana, Roth.

Cyperace^e.
Cyperus —

Longus, Linn.

Ehochans —

Acicularis, Sm.

Uniglumis, Link.

BOTANY.

99

Scirpus —

Csespitosus, Linn.
Parvulus, Roem. & Schult.
Fluitans, Linn.
Savii, Seb. & Maur.
Lacustris, Linn.
Taberaaemontani, GmeL
Maritimus, Linn.
Rufus, Wahlb.
Kriophorum —

Angustifolium, Roth.
Latifolium, Hoppe.
Rynchospora —

Fusca, Roem. & Schult.
Alba, Valh.
Schcsnus —

Nigricans, Linn.
Carex —

Dioica, Linn.
Arenaria, Linn.
Vulpina, Linn.
Muricata, Linn.
Divulsa, Good.
Echinata, Murr.
Remota, Linn.
Axillaris, Good.
Ovalis, Good.
Acuta, Linn.
Goodenowii, J. Gay.
Glauca, Murr.
Pilulifera, Linn.

Praecox, J acq.

Pallescens, Linn.

Panicea, Linn.

Pendula, Huds.

Sylvatica, Huds.

Laevigata, Sm.

Binervis, Sm. .

Distans, Linn.

Punctata, Gaud.

Extensa, Good.

Flava, Linn.

b. Minor, Towns.

c. Lepidocarpa, Tausch.
Oederi, Ehrh.

Hirta, Linn.
Paludosa, Good.

Carex (continued) —
Riparia, Curtis.
Vesicaria, Linn.

GRAMINEiE.

Phalaris —

CanariensiSf Linn«

Paradoxes Linn.

Arundinacea, Linn*
Anihoxanthum —

Odoratum, Linn.

Alopecufus —

Agrestis, Linn.

Geniculatus, Linn«

Bulbosus, Gouan.

Pratensis, Linn.
Milium —

Effusum, Linn.
Phleum —

Pratense, Lmn.

Arenarium, Linn.
Agrostis —

Setacea, Curtis.

Canina, Linn.

Alba, Linn.

Vulgaris, With.
Polypogon —

Monspeliensis, Desf.

Littoralis, Sm.
Calamagrosiis —

Epigeios, Roth.
Gastridiutn —

Lendigerum, Gaud.
Ammophila —

Arundinacea, Host.
Aira — i

Caryophyllea, Linn.

Praecox, Linn.
Deschampsia —

Caespitosa, Beauv.
Holcus —

Mollis, Linn.

Lanatus, Linn.
Trisetum —

Flavescens, Beauv.
Avena —

Pubescens, Huds.
Pratensis, Linn.

100

BOTANY.

Avtna (continued) —

Sirigosa^ Schreb.

Fatua, Linn.
Afrhenatherum —

Avenaceum, Beauv.

SiegUngia — .

Decumbens^ Berah.

Phragmites — .

Communis, Trin.

Cynosurus —

Cristatus, Linn.

Koeleria —

Cristata, Pers.

Moltnia —

Ccenilea, Moench.
Catabrosa —

Aquatica, Beauv.
Melica —

Uniflora, Retz. *
Dactylis —

Glomerata, Linn.
Briza —

Media, Linn.

Minor, Linn.

Annua, Linn.

Pratensis, Linn.

Trivialis, Linn.
Glyceria —

Fluitans, R. Br.

Plicata, Fr.
b. Pedicillata, Towns,

Maritima, Wahl.

Distans, Wahl.

Borreri, Bab.
Festuca —

Rigida, Kunth.

Loliacea, Huds.

Uniglumis, Soland.

Ambigua, Le Gall.

Myurus, Linn.

Sciuioides, Roth.

Ovina, Linn.

Glauca, Sm. ?

Rubra, Linn,
b. Arenaria, Osb.

Elatior, Limi.

Festuca (continued) —
Anmdinacea, Schreb.

Bromus —

Asper, Mutt.

Sterilis, Linn.

Commutatus, Schrad.

Mollis, Linn.
Brachypodium —

Sylvaticiun, Roem. & Schult.

Pinnatum, Beauv.
LoUum —

Perenne, Linn.

Temulentum, Linn.
Agropyron —

Caninum, Beauv.

Repens, Beauv.

Pungens, Roem. & Schult.

Acutum, non R. & S.

Junceum, Beauv.
Lepturus —

Filiformis, Trin.
Nardus —

Stricta, Linn.
Hordeum —

Pratense, Huds.

Murinum, Linn.

FiLICES.

Pteris—

Aquilina, Linn.
Lontaria —

Spicant, Desv.
Asplenium —

Adiantum-nigrum, Linn.

Marinum, Linn.

Trichomanes, Linn.

Ruta-muraria, Linn.
Athyrium —

Filix-foemina, Roth.
Scolopendf turn —

Vulgare, Symons.
Cystopteris —

Fragilis, Bemh.
Polystichum —

Lobatum, Presl.
a. Genuinum, Syme.

Angulare, PresL
Lasircea —

Filix-mas, Presl

BOTANY.

lOI

JLiistrcBa (continued) —

Spinulosa, Presl.

Dilatata, Presl.
F^olypodium —

Vulgare, Linn.
Osntunda —

Regalis, Linn.

Equisetace^.
Equisetum —

Maximum, Lam.

Arvense, Linn.

Palustre, Linn.

Limosimi, Sm.

LYCOPODIACEiE.

Lycopodium —

Inundatum, Linn.

CHARACEiE.

Chara —

Aspera, Willd.

Baltica, Bruzel.

Contraria, Kuetz.

Vulgaris, Linn.

Canescens, Loisel.
Nitella —

Translucens, Agardh.

ENTOMOLOGY.

|0R the benefit of Entomologists visiting Swanage, we
add the following list of the Macro-Lepidoptera captured
in the district, which has been compiled by Eustace
R. Bankes, M.A., F.E.S., and Herbert Goss, F.L.S.
Many young people, of both sexes, when at the seaside, find
pleasure in making collections of Butterflies and Moths. In the
following list will be found many beautiful specimens; we
are sorry our space will not admit giving illustrations of some
of the more rare ones, but we hope to do so in a future edition
so as to make it more intelligible to the unlearned.

PIERIDM
PlERIS, Sk,
Brassicae, L,
Rapae, L,
Napi, L,

ANTHOCHARISp B,

Cardamines, Z.

RHODOCERIDM

GONOPTERYX, Z.

Rhamni, Z.
COLIAS, F,

Edusa, F,
Hyale, L,

VANESSIDjE
Argynnis, /^
Paphia, Z.
Aglaia, Z.

DIURNL

Latona, Z.
Euphrosyne, Z.

Vanessa, F,
Urticae, Z.
Polychloros, Z.
lo, Z.

Atalanta, Z.
Cardui, Z.

NYMPHALIDM

LiMENITIS, i^

Sibylla, Z.

DANAID2E
Anosia, Z.
Plexippus, Z.

SATYRWyE
Arge, B,
Galatea, Z.

Satyrus, F,
^geria, Z.
Megaera, Z.
Semele, Z.
lanira, Z.
Tithonus, O,
Hyperanthus, Z.

Ccengnympha, H.S.
Pamphilus, Z.

Z YCMNID^
Thecla, F,
Rubi, Z.
Quercus, Z.

POLYOMMATUS, Z/.

Phloeas, Z.

LYCiENA, F,

^gon, 5. V,
Agestis, S, V,

ENTOMOLOGY.

103

Alexis, 5". V,
Adonis, 5. V.
Corydon, 6*.
Alsus, 5. V.
Argiolus, Z.

HESPERID^

Syrichthus, B,
Alveolus, H,

Thanaos, B,
Tages, Z.

Hesperia, B,

Sylvanus, E,
Litiea, 5". V,
Actaeon, E,

NOCTURNI.

1

SPHlNGIDyE
Smerinthus, O,
Ocellatus, Z.
Populi, Z.

Acherontia, O,
Atropos, Z.

Sphinx, O,
Convolvuli, Z.
Ligustri, Z.

CHiEROCAMPA, D.

Celerio, Z.
Porcellus, Z.
Elpenor, Z.

Macroglossa,
Stellatarum, Z.
Fucifonnis, Z.

SESIDM
Sesia, F.
Ichneumoniformis, F,
Tipuliformis, Z.
Bembeciformis, H.

ZENZERIDM
Cossus, F.
Ligniperda, F.

HEPIALIDM
Hepialus, F.
Rectus, Z.
Lupulinus, Z.
Sylvinus, Z.
Humuli, Z.

PROCRIDM
Procris, F,
Statices, Z.

Globulariae, H,

ZYGjENIDM

Zyg^na, F,

Trifolii, E,
Filipendulae, Z.

NOLIDyE
NoLA, Lch,
Cucullatella, Z.
Confusalis, H,S,

LITHOSIDM

NUDARIA, Ss,

Senex, ZT.
Mimdana, Z.

Calligenia, /?.
Miniata, Forst

LiTHOSIA, F,

Mesomella, Z.
Aureola, H,
Deplana, E,
Lurideola, TV.
Complana, Z.
GriseoTa, H,
Stramineola, Db.
Quadra, Z.
RubricoUis, Z.

EULEPIA, C

Cribrum, Z.

EUCHELIDM
Deiopeia, 5j.
Pulchella, Z.

EUCHELIA, 5.

Jacobese, Z.

CHELONIDjE
euthemonia, 51
Russula, Z.

Chelonia, Lt
Caia, Z.
Villica, Z.

Arctia, i?.
Fuliginosa, Z.
Mendica, Z.
Lubricipeda, Z.
Menthastri, S,V,

LIPARID2E

LiPARIS, O,
Auriflua, F,
Salicis, Z.
Monacha, Z.

Orgyia, O,
Pudibunda, Z.
Fascelina, Z.
Antiqua, Z.

BOMBYCIDM

POECILOCAMPA, 5j.

Populi, Z

BOMBYX, Z.

Neustria, Z.
Rubi, Z.
Quercus, Z.
Trifolii, 5. F.

Odonestis, (?»t.
Potatoria, Z.

Saturnia, 5-^.
Carpini, S'.F'.

104

ENTOMOLOGY.

URAPTERIDjE

OURAPTERYX, Lck.

Sambucata, L,

ENNOMIDM

Epione, D,
Apidaria, 5.K

RUMIA, Z>.
CraUegata, £.

Metrocampa, Z/.
Margaritata, L,

Ellopia, Ss,
Fasciaria, Z.

EURYMENE, D.

Dolobraria, L,
Pericallia, .St.

Syringaria, L,
Selenia, H,

Illunaria, H,

Illustraria, H.

Odontopera, 6^.
Bidentata, L,

Crocallis, 71
Elinguaria, Z.

Ennomos, T,
Tiliaria, Bk,
Angularia, 5*. V.

Himera, D.
Pennaria, Z.

AMPHIDASYDM
BiSTON, Lch,
Hirtaria, L,

BOARMIDyE
Hemerophila, 5^.
Abruptaria, Thnb.

Cleora, C
Lichenaria, Hf,

BOARMIA, 7r.

Repandata, L,

Var. Conversaria, Hb,

Rhomboidaria, SJV,

Gnophos, T,
Obscurata, 6*. F.

GEOMETRiE.
GEOMETRIDM

PSEUDOTERPNA, H,S,

Cytisaria, S.V,

Geometra, B
Papilionariaf L,

lODIS, H,
Vemaria, L.
Lactearia L,

Hemithea, D.
Thymiariai L,

EPHYRIDM
Ephyra, D,
Porata, F,
Trilinearia, Bk.
Omicronariaf 5*. K
Orbicularia, H,

ACIDALIDM

ASTHENA, H.

Luteata, S,V.
Candidata, S,V^

ACIDALIA, T.

Scutulata, S,V,
Bisetata, Hf,
Dilutaria, H,
Incanaria, H,
Promutata, G
Straminata, 7*.
Subsericeata, Hw.
Remutata, H,
Imitaria, H.
Emutaria, H.
Aversata, Z.

Timandra, B,
Amataria, Z.

CABERID^
Cabera, 7>*.
Pusaria, Z.
Exanthemaria, 6*.

M AC ARID ^
Macaria, C.
Altemata, 5*. K
Notata, Z.
Liturata, Z.

Halia, Z>.
Vauaria, Z.

FIDONID^^
Panagra, G
Petraria, H,

SCODIONA, B.

Belgiaria, H.

Selidosema, !£,
Plumaria, S.V.

FiDONiA, Tr.
Atomaria, Z.

ASPILATES, 7>.
Piniaria, Z.
Citraria, H,

ZERENir>yS
Abraxas, Lch,
Grossulariata, Z.

LiGDIA, G,

Adustata, S.V,

LOMASPILIS, H.
Marginata, Z.

LIGIIDjE
Pachycnemia, 5!y.
Hippocastanaria, H,

HYBERNIID^
Hybernia, U
Rupicapraria, S.V.
Leucophaearia, S.V.
Progemmaria, ZT.
Defoliaria, Z.

Anisopteryx, 6!y.
^scularia, 5. V.

LARENTIIDM
Cheimatobia, 5j.
Brumata, Z.

Oporabia, Ss.
Dilutata, 5. V.

Larentia, Tr.
Didymata, Z.
Multistrigaria, Hw.
Pectinitaria, Fu.

ENTOMOLOGY.

105

v.

J'TC

Emmelesia, Ss,
Affinitata, Ss.
Alchemillata, L,
Decolorata, H,
Unifasciata, H,

EUPITHECIA, C.

Venosata, F,
Pulchellata, Ss,
Centaureata, S.V.
Subfulvata, Hw,
Isogrammata, TV.
Castigata, H^
Albipunctata, Hw.
Indigata, H,
Constrictata, G,
Nanata, H,
Subnotata, H,
Vulgata, Hw,
Absynthiata, L,
Minutata, G,
Tenuiata, H,
Subciliata, G,
Dodoneata, G,
Abbreviata, »S!y.
Exiguata, H,
Sobrinata, H,
Pumilata, H,
Coronata, H,
Rectangulata, L,

LOBOPHORA, C

Sexalata, H,
Viretata, H,

Lobulata, H,

Thera, Ss,
Variata, 6*. V,

Ypsipetes, Ss,
Ruberata, Frr,
Impluviata, 5. V,
Elutata, H.

Melanthia, D,
Rubiginata, 6*. V,
Ocellata, L,

Melanippe, D,
Procellata, S,V.
Unangulata, Hw,
Rivata, H,
Sociata, Bk,
Montanata, S,V,
Galiata, 6*. V,
Fluctuata, L.

Anticlea, Ss,
Rubidata, 6*. V,
Badiata, S.V.
Derivata, S,V,

COREMIA, G,

Propugnata, S,V,
Ferrugata, L.
Unidentaria, Hw.

Camptogramma, Ss,
Bilineata, L,
Fluviata, H,

Phibalapteryx, Ss,
Tersata, S. V

Lignata, H.

SCOTOSIA, 5j.
Dubitata, L,
Undulata, L.

CiDARIA, Tr.
Psittacata, 5. K
Miata, L,
Picata, H
Corylata, Thnb,
Russata, S.V,
Suflfumata, S,V,
Prunata, L
Testata, L,
Populata, 5. V.
Fulvata, Fors,
Pyraliata, S.V.
Dotata, L.

Pelurga, H,
Comitata, L,

EUBOLIDM
EUBOLIA, D.

Cervinaria, 6*. V.
Mensuraria, 6*. V,
Palumbaria, 5*. V,
Bipunctaria, S.V,

Anaitis, B,
Plagiata, L.

SIONID^
Tanagra, D,
Chaerophyllata, L.

DREPANULiE.

DREPANL ULIDM
Platypteryx, Ls,
Lacertula, H,

Falcula, 6*. V,

CiLix, Lch.
Spinula, 6". V.

DICRANURIDM

DiCRANURA, Lt

Furcula, L,
Bifida, H,
Vinula, L,

Petasia, Ss,
Cassinea, F,

PSEUDO-BOMBYCES.

PYGMRID^

Pyg^ra, O,
Bucephala, L.

Clostera, 5j.
Reclusa, 6". V

NOTODONTIDM
Ptilodontis, 6!y.
Palpina, L.

NOTODONTA, O,
Camelina, L.
Dictaea, L,
Dictaeoides, E.
Ziczac, L,

xo6

ENTOMOLOGY.

NOCTUO'BOMBY"
CID^E

Thyatira, O.

Derasa, L,

Batis, L.

Cymatophora, 7>.
Duplaris, L,
Flavicomis, L.

BRYOPHILIDjE
Bryophila, Tk

Glandifera, 5". K.

Perla, 5.K

Algae, F.

BOMBYCOIDM
ACRONYCTA, Tr,

Tridens, 5. V,
Psi, Z.
Aceris, Z.
Megacephala, S.V,
Ligustri, 5. V,
Rumicis, L,

LEUCANIDM
Leucania, Tr,
Conigera, S,V.
Lithargyria, E,
Littoralis, C
Pudorina, 6*. V,
Comma, Z.
Impura, H.
Pallens, Z.

Nonagria, O.
Despecta, Tr.
Lutosa, H,

APAMIDM
Gortyna, O.
Flavago, S,V.

HYDRiECIA, G,
Nictitans, Z.

AXYLIA, H,

Putris, Z.

Xylophasia, 619,
Riirea, F.

NOCTURE.

Lithozylea, 5. V,
Sublustris, E.
Polyodon, Z.
Hepatica, Clk.

DiPTERYGIA, &.

Pinastri, Z.

Laphygua, G,
Exigua, ZT.

Heuophobus, B.
Popularis, F,
Hispida, ZT.

Cerigo, Ss,
Cytherea, F,

LUPERINA, B,

Testacea, 5. V.
Cespitis, S,V,

Mamestra, O,
Anceps, H,
Albicolon, ZT.
Brassicae, Z.

Apamea, O,
Basilinea, 5". V,
Gemina, H,
Oculea, F,

MlANA, SS,

Strigilis, Z.
Fasciuncula, Hw,
Literosa, Hw,

CARADRINIDM
Grammesia, .St.
Trilinea, S.V,
Var. Bilinea, Hb,

Caradrina, TV.
Morpheus, Hf.
Blanda, 5. V,
Cubicularis, S.V.

NOCTUIDM

RUSINA, Ss.
Tenebrosa, H.

Agrotis, O.
Valligera, S.V.
Puta, H.
Suffusa, S.V.

Saucia, H.
Segetum, S.V,
Lunigera, 6!?.
ExclamationiSy L,
Corticea, S.V.
Ripae, H.
Nigricans, Z.
Tritici, Z.
Agathina, D.
Porphyrea, S.V.
Praecox, Z.
Pyrophila, S.V.
Lucemea, Z.

TRIPHiENA, O.

lanthina, S.V.
Fimbria, Z.
Interjecta, H.
Subsequa, S.V.
Orbona, Hf.
Pronuba Z.

NOCTUA, Z.

Glareosa, E.
Plecta, Z.
C-Nigrum, Z.
Triangulum, Hf.
Brunnea, S.V,
Festiva, 5. V.
Rubi, V.
Xanthographa, 5*. V.

ORTHOSIDyE
Trachea, H.
Piniperda, P.

TiENIOCAMPA, G.

Gothica, Z.
Rubricosa, S.V.
Instabilis, S.V.
Populeti, F.
Stabilis, 5. V.
Gracilis, S.V.
Miniosa, S.V.
Munda, S.V.
Cruda, S.V.

Orthosia, Jr..
Lota, Z.

ENTOMOLOGY.

107

Macilenta, H,
Anchocelis, G.

Rufina, L.

Pistacina, S,V.

Lunosa, Hw,
Cerastis, O.

Vaccinii, L,

Spadicea, G,

SCOPELOSOMA, C

Satellitia, Z.

Dasycampa, G,
Rubiginea, S,V.

Xanthia, O,
Citrago, L.
Cerago, S.V,
Silago, H.
remiginea, S.V.

COSMID^
Tethea, O.
Subtusa, S.V.

COSMIA, O.
Trapezina, L.
Affinis, L.

HADENIDM
Eremobia, Ss.
Ochroleuca, S.V.

DiANTHiECIA, B.

Capsincola, S.V.

Hecatera, G.
Serena, S.V.

Epunda, D.
Nigra, Hw.
Viminalis, F.

MiSELIA, Ss.

Oxyacanthae, L.

Agriopis, B,
Aprilina, L.

Phlogophora, O.
Meticulosa, Z.

EUPLEXIA, 5j.
Lucipara, Z.

Aplecta, G.
Herbida, S.V.
Nebulosa, Hf.

Hadena, O.
Dentina, S.V.
Chenopodii, S.V.
Oleracea, Z.
Pisi, Z.

Thalassina, Bk,
Contigua, S.V.

XYLINIDM

Xylocampa, G.
Lithoriza, Bk.

Calocampa, Ss.
Vetusta, H.
Exoleta, Z.

Xylina, Tr.
Petrificata, S.V.

CUCULLIA, Sk.

Verbasci, L.
Umbratica, L.

HELIOTHID^
Heliothis, O.

Marginata, F.

Peltigera, 5". V
Anarta, Tr.

Myrtilli, Z.
Heliodes, G.

Arbuti, F.

ANTHOPHILIDM
Hydrelia, G.
Unca, S.V.

MiCRA, G.

Ostrina, H.

PLUS ID ^
Abrostola, O.

URTICiE, H.
Triplasia, Z.

Plusia, Tr.
Chrysitis, Z.
Iota, Z.
V. Aureum, G.
Gamma, Z.
Ni, /f.

GONOPTERIDM

GONOPTERA, U.

Libatrix, Z.

INTRUSjE
Amphipyra, Tr.
Tragopogonis, Z.

Mania, Tr.
Typica, Z.
Maura, Z.

TOXOCAMPIDjE
TOXOCAMPA, G.

Pastinum, Tr.

LIMB A T^
Catocala, O.
Nupta, Z.

SERPENTINM
EucLiDiA, Tr.

m,L.

PHYTOMETRA, Hw.

iEnea, S.V.

HYPENIDjE
Hypena, Tr.

Proboscidalis, Z.

Rostralis, Z.
Hypenides, G.

Costaestrigalis, 5!y.

DELTOIDES.

SCHRANKIA, H.S.

Turfosalis, Wk.

HERMINID^
RiVULA, G.

Sericealis, 5*.

AVENTIiE.

A VENTIDyE
Aventia, D.
Flexula, F

Herminia, Tr.
Barbalis, Z.
Tarsipennalis, 7r.
Grisealis, S.V

CONCLUSION.

\T may be asked why Swanage, with the many advantages
set forth in the preceding pages, has not been more
prominently before the public. The reply is not easy.
Probably selfishness is the reason, for there are many
people in the world who still believe that their very superior
lungs ought not to breathe in the same atmosphere as common
mortals who have not been rocked in the cradle of caste, idleness,
and luxury. Such people, if disposed, can generally throw
sufficient obstacles without appearing to do so, to prevent the
growth of the most favoured spots — railways can be manipulated
to give places a wide berth. Though Swanage has not been
visited by the crowd, neither has the great god Demos set up
his sway here, it has long been a favourite resort with lawyers,
artists, and literary men; and the great apostle of muscular
Christianity, Canon Kingsley, visited it in the last generation.
This keen critic highly eulogized the place. To have found favour
with the patron of Westward Ho ! — a place on the north-west coast
of Devon, where the sun can only shine nine months in the year,
owing to the height of the cliffs — is something to be proud of.
Westward Ho 1 has little to recommend it beyond the exhilarating
climate, and for this reason a college has been established there
for hardening boys intended to battle with the treacherous
climate of our Eastern Empire in after-life. As Swanage comes
up to the Kingsley standard of what a healthy and exhilarating
watering-place should be, and with the addition of having a sunny
aspect and of being a hundred miles nearer to London, there is no
doubt in time schools will be established there — which is by no
means a bad feature of a health resort. Church matters in Swanage
would bear a little life thrown into them, and Mr. Burt does not

CONCLUSION. 109

intend that this shall be long wanting. He has set apart an admir-
able site for a second church. For an energetic clergyman, with
a fair knowledge of the world and things worldly, we know of no
more promising field, and one more likely to yield good results.
For what is called society the town is too small to be severed from
the county, and a residence here would not exclude from the claims
to be considered part of the fashionable world for which Dorset-
shire is famous. Swanage has a few notable personages resident
within her narrow boundaries, among whom may be mentioned
Mr, Palgrave, the Clerk to the House of Commons, and Sir Charles
Robinson, Her Majesty's Director of Pictures. Lord Eldon owns
property in the town, and has a residence a short distance off at
Kingston, to which village lovers of ecclesiastical art and architec-
ture should make a pilgrimage, for here the great architect Street
has left us one of his masterpieces. Far from the crowded haunts
of men, with unlimited means at his command, his character-
istic feeling and talent had full play, and in the result we have a
perfect gem. The church is built close to the quarries of the far-
famed Purbeck marble ; and, report states, cost ;£"6o,cxx), though
it will barely accommodate three hundred people. If any fault
can be found, it is that the tower is too large for so small a church.
The arcades between the nave and aisles have continuously
treated clerestory with lancet-like openings and blank arches
between. Purbeck marble has been used profusely throughout, in
the clustered piers of the arcades and of the crux in the corbels
and string-courses. The chancel and transept are vaulted, and the
aisle windows have a rich succession of orders, with detached
columns to support them. A number of screens and the pulpit
are executed in wrought iron, of excellent design. The church is
highly creditable to the character of our English nobility, and
worthy of the descendant of a Lord Chancellor of England.

As may be expected, amusements are not provided for in so
small a place; but baths and concert rooms are projected, and will be
carried out probably at an early date. In the best of all watering
places there are days when people require to meet and exchange
a little gossip, which tonic is as desirable for building up a con-
stitution as pure air ; and our forefathers paid more attention to
this matter than we do. Of course, we shall have to wait a long
time for the introduction to our watering places of the continental
casino, as at Boulogne and Ostend. If carefully managed, we fail

no

CONCLUSION.

to see the objection to them, and the only arguments we have heard
against such establishments for England are the gambling and the
demi-monde^ and our inability to regulate such things.- Yet we
profess to have laws in force against gambling, but allow the post
office to make a large revenue out of stock-exchange gambling
and race-course betting ; such is morality in England, as to the
demi-monde^ we allow free trade alike in that as we do in importing
foreign paupers and revolutionists ; in these affairs, the foreigner
manages better than we do, but if we made a serious attempt
in the direction our ingenuity would succeed in surpassing him.
Municipal affairs at Swanage are in a very humble state. It returns
one member to the Dorsetshire County Council, in the person of
Mr. Burt ; and it has a small local board, but too feeble to be taken
much notice of by that wonderful body in Whitehall known as
the Local Government Board. The time is probably not far distant
when the town will be incorporated under commissioners, which,
if they succeed in getting a decent charter, would be the best thing
that could happen to the place. From our carefully drawn map
of the district there will be no difficulty in selecting walks ; and
it may be useful if we append a few of the distances for walks
and excursions by land and sea. Steamers of considerable size
ply daily at frequent intervals between Swanage and Bournemouth
during the summer months, and to numerous other places in the
Channel.

Towns and Villages.

Miles
by water.

Miles
by land.

Agglestone ...

3i

Alum Bay ...

17

Bournemouth

8

24

Branksea Island

7

Chapman's Pool

8

5

Christchurch

—

29

Church Knowle

—

7i

Corfe Castle vid Kingston

7

Corfe Castle vid Valley Road

6

Cowes

27i

—

Encombe

9

6J

Freshwater ...

19

Godlingston

2

Grange

9i

CONCL USION.

Ill

Towns and Villages.

Miles
by water.

Handfast Point (Old Harry)
Herston ... ... ...

Kimmeridge ... ...

Kingston

Langton

l^itklc o6a ... ••• •••

Lul worth Cove

Lymington

Needles

Nine Barrow Down

Parkstone

Poole
Portland

Portsmouth

Punfield Cove

Redhorn

Rempstone ...

St. Alban's Head

Seacombe (Dancing Ledge)

Southampton

South Haven

dteepie ... ... ,.,

Stowborough

Studland

Tilly Whim

Tyneham

Ulwell

Ventnor

Wareham

Weymouth

Whiteclifr

Winspit

Worth

Worthbarro w

Wych

12

5

15J

23
16

9*
9

23i

36
li
8i

7

^\
40

6

4

2

28
23i

13
Hi

Miles
by land.

4
I

9
5
24

44
16

43

3
21

20
33

14

5

44

54
3

50
6

94
94

3

li
II

104

284

2

44
4
13
7

There are many places and things in the neighbourhood of
Swanage to interest the curious. At Wimbome, in the fine old
church with the twin towers, may be seen the chained Bible and
other books. The admirers of Browning will be interested to know
that a near ancestor of the poet held the useful, though not very
poetic, office of butler in the historic Bankes family at Corfe Castle,

APPENDIXES.

L

LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL WORKS ON THE GEOLOGY
OF SWANAGE AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

Englefield, Sir H. C : A Description of . . . the Isle of Wight,
with Additional Observations on the Strata of the Island,
and their Continuation in the Adjacent Parts of Dorsetshire.
By Thomas Webster. Fol. London. [1816

Webster, Thomas : Observations on the Purbeck and Portland
Beds. Trans. Geol. Soc, Ser. 2, vol. IL, pp. 37-44. [1826

FiTTON, Dr. W. H. : Observations on Some of the Strata between
the Chalk and the Oxford Oolite in the South-East of
England. Trans. Geol. Soc, Ser. 2, vol. iv., pp. 206-17,
228-32. [1836

Clarke, Rev. W. B. : Illustrations of the Geology of the South-
East of Dorsetshire. Mag, Nat. Hist.j New Ser., vol. i.,
pp. 414-21 ; vol. ii., pp. 79-88, 128-36, 461-69 ; vol. iii., pp.
390-401, 432-38, 483-89. [1837-39

Forbes, Prof. E. : On the Succession of Strata and Distribution
of Organic Remains in the Dorsetshire Purbecks. Report
Brit. Assoc, for 1850, Trans, of Sections, pp. 79-81 ; and
Edin. Phil. Joum.j vol. xlix., pp. 311-13, 391. [1851

Austen, Rev. J. H. : A Guide to the Geology of the Isle of
Purbeck, and the South- West Coast of Hampshire. 8vo.
Blandford. [1852

Brodie, Rev. P. B. : On the Insect Beds of the Purbeck Forma-
tion in Wiltshire and Dorsetshire. Quart. Joum, Geol.
Soc, vol. X., pp. 475-82. [1854

Mantell, Dr. G. A. : Geological Excursions round the Isle of

APPENDIXES. 113

Wight, and along the Adjacent Coast of Dorsetshire.
Edit. 3. 8vo. London. [1854

Bristow, H. W. : Sheet 16 of the Geological Survey Map (The
Isle of Purbeck, etc.) [1855

Fisher, Rev. O. : On the Purbeck Strata of Dorsetshire. Trans,
Cambridge Phil. Soc, vol. ix., pp. SSS-81. [1856

Bristow, H. W. : Comparative Sections of the Purbeck Strata of
Dorset. Vertical Sections, Sheet 22, Geol. Survey. [1857

Bristow, H. W. : Sections to Illustrate the Geology of the
Isle of Purbeck. Horizontal Sections, Sheet 56, Geol.
Survey. [1859

JuDD, Prof. J. W. : On the Punfield Formation. Quart. Joum.
GeoL Soc, vol xxvii., pp. 207-26. [1871

Whitaker, W. : On the Chalk of the Southern Part of Dorset
and Devon. Quart. Joum. Geol. Soc, vol. xxvii., pp.
93-100. [187 1

Meyer, C. J. A. : On the Wealden as a Fluvio-lacustrine Forma-
tion, and on the Relation of the So-called "Punfield
Formation" to the Wealden and Neocomian. Quart.
Joum. Geol. Soc, vol. xxviii., pp. 243-53. [1872

Mansel-Pleydell, J. C. : A Brief Memoir on the Geology of
Dorset. Geol. Mag., vol. x., pp. 402-13 ; 438-47. [1873

Meyer, C. J. A. : Further Notes on the Punfield Section. Quart.
Joum. Geol. Soc, vol. xxix., pp. 70-75. [1873

Blake, Prof. J. F. : On the Kimmeridge Clay of England.
Quart. Joum. Geol. Soc, vol. xxxi., pp. 196-232. [1875

Brodie, W. R. : Notes on the Kimmeridge Clay of the Isle of
Purbeck. Proc. Geol. Assoc, vol. iv., pp. 517, 518. [1876

FoRDHAM, H. G. : On the Section of the Chloritic Marl and
Upper Greensand on the Northern Side of Swanage Bay,
Dorset. Proc Geol. Assoc, vol. iv., pp. 506-16. [1876

Gardner, J. S. : On the Lower Bagshot Beds of the Hampshire
Basin. Proc Geol. Assoc, vol. v., pp. 51-68. [1877

Blake, Prof. J. F. : On the Portland Rocks of England. Quart.
Joum. Geol. Soc, vol. xxxvi., pp. 189-235. [1880

HuDLESTON, W. H. : Excursion to the Isle of Purbeck. Proc
Geol. Assoc, vol. vii., pp. 377-90. [1882

8

114 APPENDIXES.

Damon, R. : Geology of Weymouth, Portland, and Coast of
Dorsetshire, from Swanage to Bridport-on-the-Sea. 8vo.
Weymouth. Edit. 2. [1884

Jones, Prof. T. R. : On the Ostracoda of the Purbeck Formation ;
with Notes on the Wealden Species. Quart, Joum, GeoL
Soc., vol. xli., pp. 311-52. [1885

Green, Burton : Kimmeridge Shale : its Origin, History, and
Uses. 8vo. London. [1886

Mansel-Pleydell, J. C. : Fossil Reptiles of Dorset. Proc,
Dorset Nat. Hist, and Antiq. Field Club, vol. ix., pp.
1-40. [1888

Bristow, H. W. : The Geology of the Isle of Wight. Second
Edition revised and enlarged by Clement Reid and
Aubrey Strahan. [Notes on the Strata at Punfield, by
A. Strahan.] Geol. Survey Memoir. 8vo. London.

[1889

II.

TIDES IN SWANAGE AND DURLSTON BAYS.

1. Flood-tide runs to the east. Ebb-tide to the west.

2. It is high water by the shore at the full and new moon
(about) 8.30, but within a mile of Durlston Head the Flood-tide
continues to run east until (about) 10 o'clock.

3. The tide ebbs two hours, then flows two hours, making a
second high water which at neap-tides is often higher than the
first. It then ebbs again two hours, making low water twenty-
four minutes later each ebb-tide. This, although it may be varied
by the influences of the wind, etc., is always correct at the
changes of the moon.

4. The rise of spring-tide is (about) six and a half feet, and
heap-tides about four — sometimes not more than two feet.

5. The highest tide is about the third after the change of the
moon.

6. Several hours before high and low water the tide runs in a
contrary direction close in shore.

III.

OW TO REACH SWANAGE and the cost thereof
will be found useful to our readers we have no doubt.
2 Visitors from London should avoid the long and tedious
route vid Chippenham and Dorchester, by the Great
Western Railway ; but residents in Berks, Oxford, and Wilts will
find two convenient branch lines running out of the Great Western
Railway main line — that vid Didcot and Newbury, joining the
London and South- Western at Winchester and on to Swanage ; or
vid Swindon, Andover, and Salisbury: this branch is convenient
for Gloucestershire. For travellers from Birmingham, and North
and North-west thereof, the most direct and inexpensive route is
by the Midland Railway vid Bath, Templecombe, and Broadstone
Junction ; and from there by a short branch line from Poole Harbour
and Wareham a few miles takes the visitor to Swanage.

From the Eastern Counties and East Coast of England, and
Scotland, visitors will probably find the most direct route to be
through London. Waterloo Station is now in direct communica-
tion with St. Pancras, Liverpool Street and King's Cross Stations ;
but those travelling from the North by the London and North-
western Railway can change at Willesden Junction ; and, by the
Great Western Railway at Westboume Park Station, and vid the
West London Extension by Addison Road to Clapham Junction,
join the London and South- Western Railway to Swanage without
entering London. Railway omnibuses take passengers, free of
charge, from Euston and St. Pancras Stations to Waterloo.

We append a few of the principal towns and cost of tourist
tickets, 1st and 3rd, to and from Swanage. As time tables are
constantly changing visitors must find out the times of the
starting of trains from the various published tables.

As Swanage becomes more in request by London business men
good terms will, no doubt, be made by the London and South-
western Railway for season tickets.

APPENDIXES,

117

Most of the tourist tickets are available for two months, and
some for longer periods.

Long-distance travellers, holding tourists' tickets, on their way
to the West of England and Channel Islands, can break their
journey at Swanage.

TOWNS ON THE

MIDLAND

RAILWAY.

Towns.

xst
Class.

3rd

Class.

s. d.

s. d.

Ashton - - -

7S 4

37 6

Bamsley

78 8

40 6

Basford

67 2

34 6

Bath -

26 4

12 6

Bedford

53 2

29

Birmingham -

52 4

27

Blackburn

79 10

40 6

Bolton

77 7

38 6

Bradford

81 2

42

Bristol -

30 I

13 3

Burton - - -

60 10

31

Buxton - - -

73 2

37

Cariisle

105 8

53 6

Cheltenham

39 4

20 7

Chester . -

72 7

35

Chesterfield

70

36

Clifton Down -

30 I

13 3

Colne - - -

86 8

42 6

Derby - - -

63 8

32 6

Dewsbury

81 2

42

Didsbury

75 10

37

Edinburgh

130

65

Evesham

44 2

23 6

Gloucester

37 8

19 6

Great Malvern

44 10

22 6

Halifax (L. & Y.)

81 2

42

Huddersfield (L. & Y.)

78 2

40

Hull (N. E. or H. & B.)

89 4

46 6

Ilkeston

85

43

Ingleton

90 10

44 6

Keighley, Ingrovir

85 6

42

Kettering

55 I

30

Lancaster

88 2

43 6

Leeds - - -

81 2

42

Leicester

57 10

31

Lincoln

75 10

39 6

Liverpool

76 10

37 6

Loughborough -

61 4

32 6

Luton - - _

47

26 6

Manchester

75 10

37

Mansfield

70 8

36 6

Malvern

41

21 3

MIDLAND RAILWAY {continued).

Towns.

xst
Class.

3rd

Class.

s.

d.

s. d.

Market Harborough -

S7

10

31

Masborough -

74

2

38

Melton Mowbray

64

7

34 6

Montpelier

30

I

13 3

Morecambe

88

2

43 6

Nailsworth

36

8

18 3

Newark

71

8

37

Normanton

80

6

40 6

Northampton -

55

I

29 3

Nottingham

67

2

34 6

Oakham

63

31

Rotherham

74

6

38

Sheffield

73

6

38

Shipley

81

2

42

Skipton

86

8

42 6

Southport

80

4

39 6

Southwell

71

8

37

St. Albans

45

4

25

Stalybridge

75

6

37 6

Stockport (Teviot Dale)

73

4

36

Stonehouse

35

17 II

Stroud - - -

32

16 10

Tamworth

57

4

29 6

Tewkesbury -

41

8

21

Trent -

66

4

34

Wakefield

79

8

40 6

Walsall

54

28

Warrington (Central) -

73

4

36

WelHngborough

55

I

29 3

Withington

75

10

37

Wolverhampton

55

7

28

Worcester

45

23

York -

84

6

44

TOWNS ON THE NORTH-EASTERN
RAILWAY.

Bishop Auckland

Blyth -

Castleford, vid Nor-

99 6
112

52
58 6

manton

81 6

41

ii8

APPENDIXES.

NORTH-EASTERN RAILWAY
{continued).

Towns.

zst
Class.

c!ass.

«.

d.

s. d.

Darlington and North

Road-

96

6

50 6

Durham

lOI

4

53 6

Hebbum

109

56 10

High Shields -

109

56 10

Hull -

89

4

46 6

Middlesborough

98

51 6

Newcastle

107

56

North Shields -

109

56 10

Redcar - - -

ICO

2

52 7

Saltbum

lOI

6

53 3

Scarborough -

94

4

50 6

Selby -

83

6

43

South Shields -

109

56 10

Thirsk -

90

8

47 I

Tynemouth

109

6

57 2

York -

84

6

44

TOWNS ON THE LONDON AND
NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY.

Alderley Edge

Ashton

Atherstone

Aylesbury

Banbury

Bangor - - -

Batley - - -

Bedford

Birkenhead

Birmingham -

Blackburn

Blaenau Festiniog

Bletchley

Blisworth

Bolton ...

Bradford

Buckingham -

Burton-on-Trent

Buxton - - -

Cambridge

Carlisle

Carnarvon

Carnforth

Chester

Chorley (wa Wigan) -

Coventry

Crewe - - -

Derby - - -

Dewsbury

Dublin (W.R.), Mail -

70

I

75

4

57

4

45

52

4

90

81

2

53

2

76

10

52

4

79

10

91

45

49

6

n

7

81

2

45

60

10

73

2

55

10

105

8

90

4

90

10

72

7

79

4

52

4

66

4

63

8

81

2

114

7

35

37

29
28

25
42

42

29
37
27

40

43
24

29
38
42
20

31

37

29

53

43

44

35
40

26

32

32

42

o
6
o
o
6
6
o
o
o
o
6
o
6
o
6
o
o
o
o

3
6

6

o

o

6

o

6

o

6

LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN
RAILWAY {conHnued).

Towns.

Dublin morth Wall) -
„ (Kingstown) -
Dudley - - -

Dunstable

Eccles - - -

Halifax

Heaton Norris -
Higham Ferrers
Holyhead
Huddersfield -
Kendal - - -

Lancaster

! Leamington, Mar-
ton, Warwick f
(Milverton), i
Ken il worth /

Leeds - - -

Leicester
Leighton

Lichfield Junction
Liverpool

„ (Landing Stage)
Loughborough -
Macclesfield -
Manchester
Market Harborough -
Melton Mowbray
Mold -
Morecambe
Nantwich
Newport (Salop)
Normanton
Northampton -
Northwich
Nottingham
Nuneaton
Oldham
Oswestry
Oxford, Bicester
Penrith

Peterborough -
Preston

Rugby - - -

Rugeley Junction
Runcorn
St. Albans, Watford

Junction
St. Helens, Prescot -
Southport & Birkdale
Shrewsbury
Stafford
Stalybridge

ist
Class.

70 9

75 10
57 10

64
76
88
66
60
80

55
70

67

7

T

2

4
6

6

I

7
2

57 8

75

I

65

45

10

103

6

62

6

80

6

52

4

60

4

72

7

45
76

80

61

60

75

4
4
4
9
4
6

s.

d.

109

I

III

7

54

48

6

73

10

81

2

73

4

60

88

4

78

2

91

8

88

2

52

4

81

2

57

10

45

57

76

10

76

10

62

drd
ass.

s. d.
50 2

28
27

36

42

36
30

43
40

46
43

o
6
o
6
o
o
o
6
6

26 o

42

31
26

28

37
37
32

35
37
31
34
37
43
32
29
40
29

34

34
29

38
32
22

51

33

43
26

29
37

25

38

39
29

29
37

o
o
o
o
6
6
o
o
o
o
6

3
6

6

6

6

3
6

6

6

o

o

o

o

o

6

o

6

o

o
o
6
6

7
6

APPENDIXES,

119

LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN
RAILWAY {continued).

Towns.

Stamford

Stockport

Tamworth

Thrapston

Wakefield

Walsall

Warrington

Wednesbury -

Wellingborough

Wellington

Welshpool

Wigan -

Wolverhampton

zst
Class.

65

73
57
57

d.
o

4
4
7
79 8
54 o

4
o

I

6

o

3rd

Class.

s. d.

33 o

73

54

55
60

65
76 10

55 7

36

29

6

31

40

6

28

36

28

29
29

31

38

28

3
6

o
o

TOWNS ON THE LONDON AND
SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY.

London Stations
Aldershot
Andover Junction
Basingstoke
Bath -

Eastleigh and Bishop-
stoke
Brentford

Bristol - . -

Camberiey
Chertsey
Crewkeme

40

35

22

3

29

6

26

4

21

40

30

I

39

40

24

10

21

16

II

14

12

O

6
I
o
6

9 10
21 o

13
18

19

3
I

6
II 5

LONDON AND SOUTH-WESTERN
RAILWAY {continued).

Towns.

Devonport

Dorchester

Epsom - - -

Exeter -

Faraham

Famborough -

Gosport

Guildford

Leatherhead -

Plymouth (North Road)

or Mutley
Portsmouth, Fratton or

Southsea
Richmond
Salisbury
Sherborne
Southampton -
Surbiton
Tavistock
Twickenham or Houns-

low - - -

Walton
Weybridge
Weymouth
Wimbledon
Winchester
Windsor, Wraysbury,

or Staines -
Woking
Yeovil -

I St

Class.

s.

56

9
40

37

34

35
27 10

40 o

40 o

56 4

d,

4
o

o

4
6
o

rd
Class.

i

d,
5

4
o

I

s.
26

4
21

18

15 II

16 8

12 10

19 I
21 o

26 5

28

8

13

9

40

21

16

10

8

3

19

9

3

20

9

1

40

20

5

50

5

24

7

40

21

40

19

4

40

19

II

5

7

40

20

I

23

4

10

II

40

21

39

18

I

22

4

10

2

The Map issued with this book can be had of our PubHsher on
stout paper in wrapper to carry in pocket, price i/- ; or
mounted on roller for hanging up, 2/-.

Printed by Hazell, Watson, & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury.

w^lif •- W .V »